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Old 01-11-2004, 01:24 PM   #1
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Lightbulb Technical Reference.

I'm going to start a new section here on the Mustang forum. A technical reference section, for those of you who want quick answers without waiting for reply's. Please feel free to add to this section with only precise and accurate knowledge. (please note, that any incorrect or bogus information will be edited by my staff).

OK lets kick it off.
Yellow/hazy headlight fix. Lightly wet sand the headlights with 1000 grit sandpaper. Then use Mother's plastic polish and buff the headlights. I didn't have a pic of my GT before, but it looked just like my LX. So here's a before of my LX and after of my GT.
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File Type: jpg yellow headlights.jpg (60.7 KB, 6 views)
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Old 01-11-2004, 01:32 PM   #2
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Re: Technical Reference.

Heater core replacement. This is a pretty time consuming project for the first timer. Here's a link to my car domain page where I have a detailed step by step process with many photos, that should ease the pain.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/315446/5
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:46 AM   #3
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Re: Technical Reference.

Oh, and don't forget the damn ashtray spring that pops off.
http://secure.50resto.com/product1.c...Product_ID=446

cheap, easy and permanent fix.
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Old 03-18-2004, 07:51 AM   #4
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HiFlow5 0's headlight sanding tip is good and it works. Eastwood makes many polishing compounds for metals and plastic. I have used these with a buffing wheel on a hand drill and the results are well worth the effort. If you have a set of aluminum wheels, like a older set of Welds that have gotten a nasty look, you can do a sand and polish job on those as well. It's better if the tire is off the wheel but a good polish job can still be had with the tire mounted. You can do a final sand with 600 grit on the aluminum. If 600 isn't enough to get the metal clean, use a grit that is just aggressive enough to get the job done. It's better to use some dish soap in a bucket of water and wet sand the wheels versus dry sanding. Keep a towel handy for wiping the wheel to keep track of progress. If you had to use a rougher grit, you will have to work your way up to the 600 in steps to remove the scratches left from the previous grit. Your're done sanding when the surface has a soft, smooth satin like finish and feel. Then, one of Eastwood's aluminum/brass buffing kits will help you do the actual buffing. This is a 2 step process because of the 2 different grade compounds needed. They have instructions on that, so I won't go into it. After you do the machine buffing, all that is left is to apply your prefered cream polish by hand. This is a labor intensive job but you can have better than new looks for alot less money. Be forewarned, you will also lose your finger prints for awhile from all the sanding.
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Old 03-24-2004, 10:51 AM   #5
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Re: Technical Reference.

about the headlamp fix, i tried blue magic plastic and plexiglass cleaner, and used it by itself, and it worked fine. I didnt sand it or anything. Mine were pretty bad, it was on a 93 t-bird. I was told if it didnt work, you could take a rag dampened with acetone (or any paint thinner other than mineral spirits) tape a bag under your head light, rub that on there, and then come back with the plastic polish, and it is suppose to work beautifully.
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Old 07-09-2004, 09:49 PM   #6
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Re: Technical Reference.

For those of you who are having idle problems we've written a set of five articles that include:
1. how to clean your iac
2. how to clean your throttle body
3. resetting the base idle
4. setting the tps voltage
5. cleaning the MAF wire
These are mostly aimed at the 5.0L but will work with 4.6L's too.
Here it is http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.html
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Old 07-12-2004, 07:06 PM   #7
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Lightbulb Engine self diagnostic test.

Locate the self test connectors on the drivers side inner fender well. You can find these, by finding the one which looks similar to the shape of a house. Hook up with a jumper wire as shown in the diagram below. Turn your key forward onto accessory (KOEO, key on, engine off), and wait for the codes. Codes will start with an 11 (meaning ok/done or ready) followed by any thrown codes, then will end with an 11. (note, that if no codes are thrown, and 11 will appear just once). Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Finally when finished reset your cars computer, do this by disconnecting the negative side of the battery while leaving your headlights on for 20 minutes.
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File Type: jpg self test connector.jpg (21.8 KB, 5 views)
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Old 07-16-2004, 03:14 AM   #8
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TPS adjusment, and idle relearn

How to set the TPS, (throttle postion sensor)

You want the TPS voltage to be set under 1 volt. Setting it to .93 to .98 is good range and should be fine. The risk of a surging idle increases quickly the closer you get to 1 Volt.

Loosening the two bolts on top of the TPS, this will enable you to turn the sensor slightly left to right. This is how you adjust it. Now you will have to back probe the black wire (negative) and the green wire (positive) of the sensor with a multi-meter. In some cases the bolt holes of the TPS might need to be elongated to achieve the proper voltage reading.

Resetting the cars computer and idle relearn

Set your timing to where you want it, 10* is stock, advancing a little to 12*-14* might be good, withuot pinging.
Now reset the cars computer.
Do this by disconnection the battery for 20 minutes, with the headlight switch in the "on" postion. Turn off lights and reconnect battery, unplug IAC motor, and start the car. The motor may have a hard time starting and you may need to give it a little gas to stabilize the idle. Once the idle settles, adjust the idle stop screw between about 700-800 rpms. Now adjust the TPS voltage to .94v-.98v.
Shut car off. Plug IAC motor back in and start the car.
Let it idle for 2 minutes with all electrical accessories running.
Shut engine off for 2 minutes.
Let it idle again for 2 minutes with no accessories running.

What you are trying to do is get the computer to learn these new settings. By disconnecting the battery you erase previous settings, in preparation for the new setting you just made.
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Old 09-06-2004, 08:47 PM   #9
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4.6L Cam Swap Instructions

This was hard to find, hope it helps.

http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=39
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:07 AM   #10
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Re: Technical Reference.

I had trouble finding this, so ill add it here:
This works on a 1999 GT. Dont know about other models.

To reset/reprogram a remote entry:
Put key in ignition. Turn engaged (right before engine start)/disengaged 8 times.
Upon engaging 8th time, doors lock and unlock. You are in "program mode". Now hit any button on your keypad.
Then disengage the ignition (doors should lock) get out and close your door. Now test your new keypad. Voila!
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:54 AM   #11
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Smile Re: Technical Reference.

Step-by-step DIY instructions for replacing a failed "plastic" intake manifold...

http://www.autoclinix.com/Manifold.htm

Also has links to lawsuit info and a link to a manifold vendor with good prices and delivery.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:14 PM   #12
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Re: Engine self diagnostic test.

is the sti coming from a chassis ground or if i have a check engine light can i just put a jumper from pin2 on the bottom to pin 2 on the top?
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