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Old 01-05-2004, 04:23 AM   #16
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Actuall WHTTEG, I have heard that stainless steal last longer vs the ceramics that can crack more easily. I cant remember where, but I do remember hearing that...
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:36 AM   #17
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Also...
Whats a good car to start with?
Honestly, for speed Id say a CRX or maybe a hatch. Integras can be made quick, but it takes a little more. However IMO, they look much better than a CRX.

Whats better All Motor or Turbo?

All motor is more reliable and can be quick, but is much more expensive. Forced induction is the best in my opinion. It has less limits and is cheaper. Money not being a factor you can combine the two and get an awesome setup.

How do I get X car to go Y fast?

It varies. Heres a calculator. http://www.wheelspin.net/calc/calc8.html I saw it in another thread. It uses power to the wheels I think. It is a rough estimate however, but may give you a general idea. Tires, tranny, weather, climate, track conditions and drivers ability etc. may affect the outcome as well, so try and take that into account if you can. I think that the estimates it provides are rather generous and you may need to add some time to its numbers. However, the only real way to know what a car will run is to get out there and run it.

If you need technical help, be as specific as possible and it will make it that much easier for some of the more knowledgable members who can actually help you(I'm not one of them).
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Old 01-06-2004, 08:07 PM   #18
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..
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Old 01-06-2004, 08:25 PM   #19
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Re: Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

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Originally Posted by HondaIntegraXSI
yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..
hey, don't be sorry bout it man...jus want the real author to get credit is all.

as for the pm's, then u get more than i do. i only get 5-6 a week IF that. but thats over, let the thread get back onto topic...
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Old 01-06-2004, 08:51 PM   #20
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

What all is needed to do a auto to 5 speed conversion, and how much will it cost (all prices are what I would charge for the least expensive, yet high quality used parts,LS)...
-tranny(cable,under 50k) $300
-Flywheel $30
-shift linkage $30
-ECU $85
-peddle assembly $50
-axles (GS-R,Si)(none in stock) 75 ea.
-Resovour, slave cylender, cable, ect $75
-new clutch www.summitracing.com
this is an extremely difficult swap and took me 2 weekends with all the proper tools(and 2 people), and I will never attempt it again, but will ayso increase you machanical knowledge. And therefore having the ability to do futher modifications in the future
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Old 01-07-2004, 05:44 PM   #21
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

A post I have feen seeing quite a bit reacently is "What lowering springs should I put on my car?"

IMO if you want to lower your car, do it right or don't do it at all! If you want your car lowered 3.5 inches, and get out of it as cheap as possiblethen do it, but it's going to ride rough as hell(and considered a ricer).

Are the coilovers on E-bay good?

No, they are crap! they corrode, and ride rough as hell, ayso they slip and springs are not uncommon to snap due to weight.

What should I do to properly Hammer my car?

IMO 1) Bushings 2) Camberkit/Alingment 3) struts and springs 4) Swaybars 5) Strutbars

What springs and strut combo is the best?

It is all in what you like, I prefere the Eibach prosprings on Koni yellow for the bang for you buck. then as soon as that is performed, it's not nessicary for an alingment, but I hightly recomend it...

And remember that lowering your car is to increase your cornering, braking, and acceleraion performance, so what the heck is the point of droping your car 2" and having -2.5 degree camber? The suspention will make or brake a car so choose wisely....
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Old 01-10-2004, 09:43 AM   #22
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

what's the ranking (highest to lowest) of these models & difference? (also, are some not available to Canada? ex: SE, LS).

GS/GSR/LS/RS/SE/SPECIAL EDITION/SPECIAL EDITION LS/TYPE-R
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Old 01-10-2004, 12:51 PM   #23
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For specific info on any car. HP, Tq, MPG , Weight.

http://www.autotrader.com/research/m...l?restype=used
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:39 PM   #24
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Re: Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nai
what's the ranking (highest to lowest) of these models & difference? (also, are some not available to Canada? ex: SE, LS).

GS/GSR/LS/RS/SE/SPECIAL EDITION/SPECIAL EDITION LS/TYPE-R

i think it went like this highest to lowest~
Type R, GS-R, GS, SE, LS, RS.


and why do you have special edition listed 3 times? I thought there was only one? (SE = Special Edition) All essentially a LS with leather interior.
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Old 01-10-2004, 04:46 PM   #25
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris26969
For specific info on any car. HP, Tq, MPG , Weight.

http://www.autotrader.com/research/m...l?restype=used


thas usually where i'll double check a car that im not as sure about as the teggy's stats...
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Old 01-10-2004, 07:20 PM   #26
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Q: Which is better short ram or cold air?

A: Both are going to show approximately the same power freed up.

obviously the CAI would be inducting a bit colder air than the SRI because of the location of the filter. most cai's have the filter outside the motor bay near the front right tire, compared to the sri which would induct warmer air.

they say that for approximately every 11 degrees colder u can get, u free up AROUND 1% h/p.

SRI is nice for winter/water conditions if u live somewhere that rains a lot.

Some CAI come w/ a "by-pass valve," but this doesn't even work unless the filter is completely submerged anyways. therefore...water could still get into the motor.

EDIT: wanted to add that a sri will free up around 2-3 hp, compared to 3-5 for the cai (really depends on condition of motor, how dirty ur old filter was, the temperature outsite etc...)
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Last edited by KrNxRaCer00; 01-10-2004 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 01-10-2004, 10:36 PM   #27
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Re: Re: Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by knorwj
i think it went like this highest to lowest~
Type R, GS-R, GS, SE, LS, RS.


and why do you have special edition listed 3 times? I thought there was only one? (SE = Special Edition) All essentially a LS with leather interior.
I didn't realize "SE" = Special Edition, hence the repitition. I just noticed several people refering to these models (using the 3 nicknames) thinking they were separate models. Where I live, only the Type-R/GS-R/GS & RS exists. I assume the LS and SE were either renamed or was never brought to the west coast (Canada).

thanks for the info!
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:02 PM   #28
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Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

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Originally Posted by KrNxRaCer00
i'd have to disagree tho w/ u. i don't think of ls/vtec as a bad thing at all. has honda ever released a turbo motor from the factory? yet, how many ppl would agree that is the #1 way to produce power from our small motors.

jus because honda didn't do it, doesn't mean it isn't right. the ls/vtec can be a reliable motor IF u have it put together by someone who knows their hondas. IF u do check-ups/maintence on the motor OFTEN. it can last a long time if u do it correctly, or u could blow it w/ in a couple of months if u do a shit job.

really, don't knock the ls/vtec, it isn't jus a "fad" its too strong of a motor to be that.
Since you asked...

Honda hasn't made a turbo car because because Honda doesn't build drag racers. It isn't just because they can't figure out how they work. Road racing requires predictability and reliability. Turbo motors offer far less of both. For instance, compare how often DSM's break down compared to Hondas. And also consider that you are coming out of the apex of a turn at the limits of the car's road holding ability. You're in the gas accelerating for the coming straight stretch. Then, just before the car has settled up the boost spikes and your race rubber goes spinning (if you've never run on R-compound tires you can't understand). NA engines offer very smooth and predictable power delivery. Also, of a FI and NA engine setup puting out the same power, the NA will be faster. Since Honda makes road racers they use the engines better suited for that purpose.

Honda DID build an LS VTEC. It's called a B18C! It's foolish to think that Honda hasn't explored all of the options at their disposal when building performance engines. I think they're doing pretty well considering they still hold the title for the two highest hp/liter engines in the world (NA) Type-R and the S2000. Honda put enough effort into developing "LS VTEC" to know that it wasn't a simple head swap. Higher rpm required a different rod ratio. So they sacrificed a little displacement, added some oil squirters and a knock sensor, raised compression a little, oh yea and added a cam lobe. That netted them a 30hp gain. That's better than most aftermarket companies can do while still keeping gas mileage, engine longevity, and noise pollution in check. Even better than that, they tweak IM's, cams, and compression a little more and come up with another 30hp! I'd say Honda did a pretty good job. And I'd also say that it's foolish for a couple of hobby enthusiasts like us to think that we know better than Honda.

That being said, the reason to modify an engine is when your goals don't line up with that of the engine manufacturers. For instance, we want more power in place of fuel economy, noise pollution, and engine longevity (maybe some, not me). So what goals does an LS VTEC meet more efficiently than other Honda engine packages? The only one that really comes to mind is a random tuner that happens to have a lot of VTEC heads and non-VTEC blocks laying around. Otherwise, a B18B turbo or a B18C NA package can still get better gains cheaper (assuming that the builder would spend the money to make a reliable LS VTEC. FWIW, the longevity of a well-done LS VTEC is 30-40K miles. Poorly assembled units will only last 10-20K miles. That's why sometimes they are referred to as race engines. Race teams don't mind blowing an engine every other week as much as the average consumers do.
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:43 PM   #29
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Re: Re: Attention!! F.A.Q.s thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMDB7
Since you asked...

Honda hasn't made a turbo car because because Honda doesn't build drag racers. It isn't just because they can't figure out how they work. Road racing requires predictability and reliability. Turbo motors offer far less of both. For instance, compare how often DSM's break down compared to Hondas. And also consider that you are coming out of the apex of a turn at the limits of the car's road holding ability. You're in the gas accelerating for the coming straight stretch. Then, just before the car has settled up the boost spikes and your race rubber goes spinning (if you've never run on R-compound tires you can't understand). NA engines offer very smooth and predictable power delivery. Also, of a FI and NA engine setup puting out the same power, the NA will be faster. Since Honda makes road racers they use the engines better suited for that purpose.

Honda DID build an LS VTEC. It's called a B18C! It's foolish to think that Honda hasn't explored all of the options at their disposal when building performance engines. I think they're doing pretty well considering they still hold the title for the two highest hp/liter engines in the world (NA) Type-R and the S2000. Honda put enough effort into developing "LS VTEC" to know that it wasn't a simple head swap. Higher rpm required a different rod ratio. So they sacrificed a little displacement, added some oil squirters and a knock sensor, raised compression a little, oh yea and added a cam lobe. That netted them a 30hp gain. That's better than most aftermarket companies can do while still keeping gas mileage, engine longevity, and noise pollution in check. Even better than that, they tweak IM's, cams, and compression a little more and come up with another 30hp! I'd say Honda did a pretty good job. And I'd also say that it's foolish for a couple of hobby enthusiasts like us to think that we know better than Honda.

That being said, the reason to modify an engine is when your goals don't line up with that of the engine manufacturers. For instance, we want more power in place of fuel economy, noise pollution, and engine longevity (maybe some, not me). So what goals does an LS VTEC meet more efficiently than other Honda engine packages? The only one that really comes to mind is a random tuner that happens to have a lot of VTEC heads and non-VTEC blocks laying around. Otherwise, a B18B turbo or a B18C NA package can still get better gains cheaper (assuming that the builder would spend the money to make a reliable LS VTEC. FWIW, the longevity of a well-done LS VTEC is 30-40K miles. Poorly assembled units will only last 10-20K miles. That's why sometimes they are referred to as race engines. Race teams don't mind blowing an engine every other week as much as the average consumers do.
I never said that honda couldn't figure a turbo motor out (don't know where u got that from,) but i agree w/ u that they believe they don't need a turbo motor'd automobile yet.

Honda has never built an ls/vtec. the b18b1 and b18c1 don't share the same block. the b18c1 and c5 do w/ the b16 head being the biggest difference (obviously internals etc, but being general here,) but i've yet to see an ls/vtec from the factory. (maybe not seeing exactly wut ur trying to say.)

You talk about reliability, thats going to be a tradeoff for ANY modified motor, simply as that.

what goals does the ls/vtec meet? its not that expensive (can be done well for under 3k...cheaper than the b18c1), and if u turbo it, then its by far a stronger motor/turbo combination than the ls/turbo. its almost like a middle ground between the c1/b1.

also, stock u have the lowend torque of the ls, w/ the topend pull of the vtec head.

no, we don't know better than honda...but we do more than they do for 1/4 times.
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:51 PM   #30
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You seem to be giving alot of bullshit to people and you are new here, dont make enemys now because you will never get any help from anyone.
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