GAS Mileage - how to make it better.

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by edsbox

I can't believe that anyone still uses this snake oil; read for yourself >>>

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm

Greetings Edsbox,

Thanks for bringing up this link about Slick 50. I was very familiar with this article from July 1996. What's interesting to note - is that the Federal government did not end up levying a fine on Slick 50 as they said they might - nor did they force Slick 50 to do refunds nor did they require Slick 50 to alter their product. And Slick 50 did do additional tests that proved most of its claims were supported. In fact - the packaging and statements Slick 50 makes today is essentially the same as it was back in 1996 - except that they also offer a 50,000 mile warranty that didn't exist in 1996. In short, the FTC was wrong in a majority of their assessment of Slick 50.

Slick 50 may or may not be everyone's choice - we all decide for ourselves yet from personal use - I've seen considerable benefits from it. Specifically for my wife - who checks her car's oil levels far too infrequently. Her previous car was saved on more than one occasion - by the use of Slick 50. Even with 2.5 quarts of oil low - her vehicle did not overheat - well worth the investment in Slick 50. I prefer Slick 50 with normal Havoline oil and a good Purolator oil filter over synthetic oils and synthetic filters at this point.

I know there are also other products similar of which I don't know their result - Prolong, DuraLube, and others. Maybe other readers can comment on those products if they have any experience.

I also don't have the same view as the article you linked to - that oil changes at recommended manufacturer levels are okey-dokey. If I have a new vehicle (truck, car, or motorcycle) - the first oil change is ALWAYS done at 750 to 1,000 miles. Chevy says first and every one at 3,000. When I changed my oil at 985 miles - it was visually obvious that it was a very good idea that I didn't wait an additional 2,000 miles. That is just how new engines are - manufacturing impurities, and initial wear/fit metal dust is natural in any and all engines.

Anybody have experience with Prolong or Duralube or other brand engine oil treatments (gas treatments is a whole different story)?

White Lightening

[57Chev]

the gas you get is realy bad these days. its like you onley are get fumes when you fill up. i have 2000 silverado and gas mileage stinks.

[Fireplug]

1997 Suburban 5.7 13mpg city

[dr_of_lovephd]

Originally Posted by 57Chev

the gas you get is realy bad these days. its like you onley are get fumes when you fill up. i have 2000 silverado and gas mileage stinks.

57Chev,

Have you tried different gas stations? I have found if I use gas from certain chain gas stations, I get worst gas mileage in my truck.

[Jake795]

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by Jake795

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?

Greetings Jake,

Its all about the circumference of your tires. Many drivers incorrectly believe that size of wheels and tires is the measurement - it is not. My 20" wheels and tires may have a larger or smaller circumference than your 16s. Circumference is the number of inches/feet travelled in one full revolution of the tire. Lets use a quick example. If your speedo was correct with your old tires/wheels and they were 5 feet of travel for one revolution and your new tires are 5 feet 6 inches - that means they are 10% larger (5.5 feet/5 feet = 1.10 or 110%). So if your mileage is now 15 mpg - you are actually getting 16.5 (15 x 1.1 = 16.5).

Myself - I'd get your speedo/computer reset - you're also going 10% faster than the speedo says you are and that could mean tickets.

How to measure the circumference you ask? Tape measure around the outside of the tire (not exact but real close).

White Lightening

[exlonghair]

Originally Posted by Jake795

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?

Try this link....all kinds of useful info... http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...foTireMath.jsp

[Cadillakin'98]

I have a '98 4.3L (V6) only gettin' 20mpg at best. My truck is very well maintained-oil changes every 3000, fuel filter every 6K to 9K, K&N gets cleaned @ same time, maintain 32 psi, good tread, aligned, wheel bearings inspected-repacked/replaced as needed about every 12K, touneau cover only varies milage about 2mpg (so 18mpg w/cover off). I too have noticed a difference with different gas stations so I personally use only Mobil/Exxon or Fina and ALWAYS use 89 octane (mid) since most engines are engineered to run off of 88 octane all though owners manuals will say ATLEAST 87 is ok. With all this said and done, I wish I had a 5.3L or an older 5.7L seeing as how gas milage is very nominal. Thankx eveyone for your input.

[tjfree]

FP60 (aka Fuel Power) and LC20 are the 2 top cleaners on the market and if any additive is going to give better mpg it is these 2. www.lubecontrol.com

Read up at www.bobistheoilguy.com and don't put any of that other crap in your car.

[White Lightening]

Recently I was reading about Royal Purple after someone suggested I consider it for my truck use. I went their website and after reading it for quite awhile - it occurred to me - its sounds much like Slick 50 - except a synthetic base. I've used Slick 50 for years and great success. I don't believe there has been an oil additive more "examined" and tested by doubters than this product. On 2 occasions the government did testing after they claimed Slick 50 didn't work. After the testing in both cases - the government "quietly" recalled its claims of non-effectiveness.

Now Royal Purple seems to show on their website a similar bonding agent and durability benefit - exactly like Slick 50.

Anybody have experiences with it?

[White Lightening]

Regarding fuel quality. I whole heartedly agree that fuel is a problem at many outlets. Not only is there a difference of quality - but there are differences in "other contaminants".

Ever been fueling and suddenly the pump handle jumps or the hose and handle move or the pump makes a funny noise? I'm told that is sediment or paraffin based globs coming through (paraffin - as in wax like Pennsylvania oils have).

Fuel additives by many names available for $1 or $2 a bottle just seem effective only for de-icing etc.. Every 2500 or 3000 miles I use one of the fuel additives that comes in an aluminum can (not plastic). I've been told that all the good fuel additive injector cleaners must come in metal cans because they soften the plastic containers. If it comes in plastic - I'm told it won't do much for you.

And trial and error has proven it true. I notice dramatic difference in my vehicles after using the $5 to $9 cleaners in aluminum - and no difference at all with the plastic bottled $1 to $4 cleaners.

[jeverett]

I got almost 17.5 mpg this weekend!! WooHoo!!!

[dr_of_lovephd]

Does anyone know how accurate is the MPG gauge in the drivers information center?

I went on a trip this weekend, 350 miles of open road driving, and it said I got 21.7 mpg. I drive an 04 silverado, ext. cab with a 5.3 engine, and that sounds a little too good to be true.

All the tires and everything are still stock, but I did add a tonneau cover.

[White Lightening]

Greetings Dr Love,

Nothing beats the manual process of fill-to-fill gallons divided into miles calculation - just like the old days. But the D.I.C. should be relatively accurate assuming the following:

1. If your vehicle is a rwd. A 4x4 seems a bit strong at 21.7. Or you could have had the wind at your back :-)

2. If your tires are not worn down. Smaller tires will effect mileage calculations.

3. If you reset your d.i.c. before you left on the trip.

On the highway, with tonneau cover and rwd and a steady accelerator foot and no pulling load - I get 20.5 to 21.5 with my Vortec 6000. So 21.7 doesn't sound too out of line.

White Lightening

[dr_of_lovephd]

My truck is 2WD and the tires only have 8,000 miles, and I did reset the DIC right after I filled up the tank, before leaving for the trip. So, I'll fill it up again tonight to double check the DIC. Thanks.