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Old 06-13-2009, 01:06 PM   #76
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

EGR FIX for OBDI (also OBDII) 4-Cyl 5S-FE (Code 71 - Insufficient Exhaust Gas Temperature at EGR)

Thanks to Daniel M. Dreifus and Airjer for the following discussion:

Seems I've solved the check engine light on the '94 Camry 4 cylinder with 193,000 miles (code 71 - insufficient exhaust gas temperature at the EGR valve) with some very helpful comments from the lead service technician at the local dealership and wanted to pass along the experience to others who may benefit.

The technician - this is California, so California version cars if that makes any difference, -- he said they used to disassemble and clean the EGR valves, but now just remove the throttle body and use a wire to clean the EGR port. After doing this I can see why this may be. On my '94 the EGR port is almost directly opposite the PCV valve hose - so oil laden crankcase vapors are prone to mix with the incoming exhaust gas at the EGR. I found this to be so. The port was nearly completely plugged with crusty carbon deposits. Do remember to use a well placed rag when cleaning to prevent carbon bits falling into the intake runners nearby.

He also said, that if they do not also replace the vacuum switching valve for the EGR, the check engine light is usually back on within a month.

I should mention that I've seen others mention finding carbon in the EGR tube and connector to the EGR modulator, but I found the flexible line between them seemed clear. Maybe using Redline fuel additive and Lucas fuel treatment continuously (first one then the other) had some effect?

What the lead service tech did not say, is that two tools are essential for changing the EGR VSV. 1) a hinged head ratchet handle (found mine at Kragen Auto Parts) and 2) a 3/8" extension with a "wobble" end (also Kragen)

The EGR VSV is on the back of the engine block above the rear engine mount on the 5S-FE and access is very limited. I needed a shop light and flashlight plus a large block of wood for a head rest to prevent neck muscles from becoming exhausted.

With lots of patience, the job is not difficult - just awkward. Seemed turning the steering wheel all the way out to the side helped.

The electrical connectors release by squeezing at the top. This had me puzzled for a while, since the release lever is not obvious.

That wobble extension with a 12mm socket was also indispensable for getting the bolt back in after reaching my right arm in to the shoulder to hold the new VSV. I had never used a wobble extension before, but found it moves enough to work around angles, but unlike a universal joint, still holds straight enough to really aid in removing and reinstalling bolts. Same too with the hinged head ratchet handle - don't think this job would have been possible without it since clearance is very limited.

Cleaning the EGR valve port in the intake manifold did help a lot. By "babying" the throttle (EGR is off at light throttle conditions) I could keep the check engine light off.

I did not find an obvious fault with the old VSV. Had read posts elsewhere that they are a known and common problem, so if nothing else, preventative maintenance at nearly 200K. I connected battery voltage to the terminals and heard a click and also found flow of air through the valve was there, but perhaps not as strong as it should be when open. (seemed noticeably less than through an unrestricted section of vacuum hose)

There is an air "filter" on the end of this VSV assembly, so I wonder if over time, the internal passages become somewhat restricted.

Someone more adventurous than I might try shooting solvent through it to clean and save the replacement cost, but I didn't want to risk doing the R&R twice.
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I run into plugged EGR ports fairly often on those older corrolas as well. Apply vacuum to the EGR valve and no or little RPM change = Pull the throttle body (I like to pull the EGR tube thats bolted to the intake as well) and start scrubbing. I like to stuff a rag as far back as possible and carefully chip away at the big chunks. Then finish the cleaning with a good carb/choke/throttle body cleaner. Don't forget to clean up the throttle body while its off as well.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:48 PM   #77
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

FIXING HIGH FAST IDLE ON 1MZ-FE V6

Thanks to artbuc for the following mod:

Many 1MZ-FE V6 engines have a very high initial fast idle. Mine had increased slowly to 2100 rpm over the last several years. On various automotive forums, 1MZ-FE owners have asked about this high idle and have been told it is normal. Many have gone to dealers who have told them it is normal. It may be normal but it is a royal PITA putting the car into reverse to back out of the garage when you car is humming at 2100 rpm.

I bought a 0 - 5k ohm potentiometer at Radio Shack for $3. I wired it in parallel with the ECT sensor. I calculated the required setting would be 1.6k ohm to give me a net resistance of 1.0k ohm which would "fool" the computer into thinking my car engine was 104 degrees F. This gave me an intital fast idle of about 1250 rpm. I tweaked it to bump up the initial fast idle to 1500. I may do some additional tweaking but I like the 1250-1500 range. As the car warms up and the ECT sensor resistance drops, the ECT sensor becomes controlling and the engine goes to normal idle speed.

For additional discussion and some pics, see this post.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:20 AM   #78
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

What wheels will fit my car?

See the following site:
http://www.vehicle-bolt-pattern.com/
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:03 PM   #79
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

Q: How should I flush my engine oil system?

A: To flush the engine, before the oil change drain a quart of oil out and replace it with a quart of transmission fluid (ATF), and drive it without stressing it for a couple of hours, maybe longer. Drain the oil and change the filter.

Many people recommend Seafoam for flushing, but I don't believe in anything but tranny fluid. ATF is very close to motor oil in composition, but has a really high detergent content. More than one old mechanic recommended tranny fluid to me and I trust them explicitly. They know more about engines than I ever will.

I would seriously recommend against using solvent type flushes. Solvent flushes are only good for varnish, not sludge or other hard deposits. They can dissolve sticky deposits which hold other deposits in place. If the released deposits are not soluble in the solvent, they will be loose to cause trouble by blocking oil passages. This can kill your engine really fast. This is the advantage of using transmission fluid. It is designed to suspend deposits with a detergent additive which should break up particles before they can stick somewhere bad.

If this doesn't work, I would try AutoRX which is specifically designed to dissolve sludge. You use it as directed on the bottle. AutoRX is not a solvent, but is a type of oil which softens sludge and allows the oil to break it up. Read about it at the above link.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:40 AM   #80
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

Trouble Code for Catalytic Convertor?

Q: Hi, I have a 2003 camry le, 156 k miles and my check engine light has been on for about 6 months .. it is now time to register my car. I have checked a few different muffler shops.. I am being told cat converter and o2 sensor. unfortunately what i am being told by everyone that i can only get these parts from Toyota and they are expensive 2 cat converters $ 400 and $1500 also o2 sensor about $200 tahts over a cpl thousand just for parts.. not to mention my car has a lot of miles...


A: It is not likely that you need a new catalytic convertor. The error code you are getting for a cat convertor is triggered by the rear oxygen (HO2) sensor. Its function is to tell the computer that your cat convertor is bad. However, the computer can't tell the difference between a bad sensor and a bad cat convertor. It is almost always only a bad sensor.

Try replacing the rear HO2 sensor first. Get the DENSO sensors. If you get the OE sensors, they are original equipment and fit perfectly. Go to the DENSO web site, here, and find the DENSO part number (see below). You can get the DENSO parts in many places on line. I commonly get them from Amazon.com for cheap. Search Amazon.com for "DENSO 234-4048" for example, and the first choice should be the correct part.

Here are the part numbers for your 2003 Camry from the DENSO website, here. (Note that if you are also going to replace the front sensor and have a 4-cylinder engine, you will have to call a Toyota dealer parts department and give them your VIN number and find out if you have a Calif. emission engine or not.)

DENSO part numbers for 2003 Camry:
Front sensor 4 cyl Calif. 234-4622
Front sensor 4 cyl non-Calif. 234-9010
Rear sensor 4 cyl all 234-4048

For the above rear sensor: See here

Front sensor 6 cyl all 234-9047
Rear sensor 6 cyl Left all 234-4261
Rear sensor 6 cyl Right all 234-4064


For the above sensors, see here and here
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:46 PM   #81
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Re: Camry FAQs/Information - SEARCH HERE AND FORUM BEFORE POSTING

TESTING FOR EXHAUST SYSTEM LEAKS

If you are getting a P0420 or P0430 code for catalytic converter efficiency below threshold, one of the potential problems is an exhaust system leak. Since your exhaust has pulsating pressure waves, there are periods when a leak can pull outside air into your exhaust system and cause the catalytic convertor to have a high oxygen output and pull these codes.

One way to find small leaks is to pressurize the exhaust while the engine is cold and spray it down with soapy water. To pressurize the exhaust system, plug up the exhaust pipe with a large socket wrapped in a rag or duct tape and hook the blower end of a shop vac to the intake. This should allow you to detect leaks by looking for bubbles from the soapy water.
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