Turn Signal works occasionally

[Darkwing46]

Brilliant catfishfryer, don't know why I didn't think of it. I've repaired a few TV's just by reheating solder joints (RCA's are the worst). I saved $75+ (Canadian) by fixing the relay myself. Just to add an additional suggestion: while you have it apart cut a strip of plain notepad paper about 1/4 inch wide, soak it in electronic contact cleaner and pull it through each of the four relay contacts, cutting off the soiled end after each use. It's a tad tedious, you need to hold open the contact with a small screwdriver or toothpick while you insert the paper strip, let the contact close on the paper then pull it slowly out - you'd be surprised at the amount of carbon that has built up. Thanks again - I'm new here but I've always done most of my own repairs and could have found this forum useful on many occasions. I will in the future.

[MadHatter503]

Had same problem due to 4-ways left on too long and stressed out the relays! Loosened the relay springs and solved the problem. Check for cold or cracked circut connections first, then try to adjust springs.

[jkbrink]

Thank you catfishfryer for the soldering tip! The cracking of the solder connections is barely visible to the eye, but under 20X can be seen real clear. Resoldered 4 of the leads and all signals are working great. I have a 2000 grand with 106000 and the left hand signal that would sometimes work, most times not while all others worked fine. I changed the drivers side head-light assembly, rear tail-light assembly and column switch in mid-summer and thought it fixed the problem. But, outside temperature definately affects the solder/contact connection after it cracks. I live in the Midwest and the colder it got the signal would stop working longer and longer. The assemblies needed changed out anyway since the headlight lens was all clouded over and the rear lamp sockets were pretty burnt black, but probably didn't have to spend the $75 on the column lever switch. BIG KUDOS to you!

[Tucson]

The re-soldered connections helped me on a number of occasions with my 2000 Grand Caravan.

I still have had intermittent signals from time to time. With all the wiggling of the relay, I think it doesn't always sit in the fuseholder module very well. So the other day, I actually applied a bit of solder to thicken up the posts on the relay module that contact the fuseholder before I put it back in. Sure enough, now the module sits snugly in the fuseholder module, and I don't have any turn signal issues any more.

I got to thinking that was a larger issue than the internal joints in the relay after I had re-soldered the relay for the 3rd time, and it quit working 5 minutes later. I pulled over and reached under the dash to wiggle the relay, and sure enough it started to work again...

Given how long that module is compared to a normal relay, its easy to envision that it will start to work its way loose, especially on gravel and dirt roads, or even an occasional pothole. Think about how often you have to sometimes wiggle a cheap power cord in a wall outlet to make it work. Why? They are making the power cord prongs thinner and thinner these days in order to cut back on the amount of metal they use.

By the way, the last quote I got from a dealer on a turn signal relay was 95 dollars. What a joke...

[gary v]

I have been having this issue with the wifes van for a few months now, saw your post catfishfryer & checked it out & sure enough three cracked joints. Just wanted to say thanks for the fix & to everyone else who post fixes.

[injectordoctor]

I have three Dodge Caravans. This problem has cropped up on two of them. So far, I have replaced three turn signal switches, and paid $75 X 3 = $225 plus mechanic's charges upwards of $100. I just could not understand how brand new switches would not work.

Then toady, I went on web and Googled this subject and came across this forum.

I was particularly surprised by the post by catfishfryer.

I followed his suggestion, and removed the relay, opened it and checked the contacts inside as well as outside. I then pushed it back in and made sure it was secure.

Then I tested the signals. They work perfectly!

By the way, I did not have the break the tabs. I inserted a small flat-head screwdriver in the slot and while pushing the tab in place, pried the relay gently. With some effort, it came apart, and also went back in just as easily.

In case I have this problem again, I know exactly what to do. Knowledge is power!!!!

I cannot thank catfishfryer enough for his help. I wish there was a way to reward him for his help. If anyone among the posters knows how, please share it with me.

Thanks, catfishfryer! May God bless you.

And thanks to automotiveforums.com. You are offering a great service.

[fatheroftwo]

The front signals are working but the rear signals and flasher quit working, any ideas???

[RIP]

Originally Posted by fatheroftwo

The front signals are working but the rear signals and flasher quit working, any ideas???

Model year?

[MelissaL34]

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the left blinker working sparatically for about 18 months. At first, the blinker would work if I banged on the top of the steering wheel, then I noticed if I flipped on the hazard emergency lights on it would trigger...now the stupid thing does not work at all. After getting a ridicules quote of over $300 I decided to Google this issue and found this thread.

Let me start off my saying I am a female and I know nothing about cars. After reading both Catfishfryer and Densmith123 posts and getting the link to www.wjjeeps.com, I was able to find the relay switch! Not an easy accomplishment. Then by turing on the hazards the switch would click and made it easy to figure out which one it was. I noticed that I can tap the switch and my blinker will now work, although it does not look very pretty without the dash. I just called the dealer and they want $50.20 for a new relay switch. I am debating on just replacing it or removing it and trying to solder it myself now.

Without these awesome posts, I would have paid close to $500 to get this fixed because they were starting with the actual blinker arm! Who knows when they would have realized it was just the relay!

A HUGE THANK YOU FOR THIS INFORMATION!

[canoehead]

THANK YOU Catfishfryer!!!!!

[wyosodakanna]

THANK YOU so much to the post explaining exactly where to look for this and to catfishfryer!Had this issue since last August .Signals worked and then didn't;etc.etc.I re-seated the little black box and now know how easy it is to replace if I need to.;and I could tell which one it was by hearing and then finding it at a time when the darn things were working,just like you said.I love doing this myself;repairs always cost $200 it seems, for anything.Hats off to you:

[RIP]

Originally Posted by wyosodakanna

THANK YOU so much to the post explaining exactly where to look for this and to catfishfryer!Had this issue since last August .Signals worked and then didn't;etc.etc.I re-seated the little black box and now know how easy it is to replace if I need to.;and I could tell which one it was by hearing and then finding it at a time when the darn things were working,just like you said.I love doing this myself;repairs always cost $200 it seems, for anything.Hats off to you:

I've been passing cats' resolder trick to many since he posted it years ago. The no turn sig bug finally hit me and I knew exactly what needed to be done. I had been playing the "wiggle the relay" game for months. Had enough of it recently and tried cats' resolder fix. It's been working fine for a few months now. I wonder how many out there have forked over the ~ $60 bucks for a new flasher when a free fix was at their fingertips. Glad to see you won't be one of them.

[ptjeepmech]

Ok, had same left turn signal problem. Pulled flasher and attempted to solider it. I bridged two (maybe more) together, swore a lot, and put it back in anyway. Then neither left or right turn signal worked, neither did the heater control at all or my heated seats. Went to a junk yard and pulled a used flasher for very short money. Installed that, no differance. Went through all fuses under hood too, found #20 (10a) and #26 (15a) blown and replaced. Heater control and heated seats are back, still no left or right turn signals but do still have hazards. No 20x magnifier handy to check for cracks in the "new" flasher cause it too could be faulty but is it possible I'm just not seeing something or some fuse?

[mkov608]

Help! I've got a 91 Voyager and the turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up & even then they are intermittent. I get a rapid clicking (no turn signal indicator light) when the steering wheel is in any other position. Has anyone had this problem? How did you fix it?

[ptjeepmech]

Originally Posted by mkov608

Help! I've got a 91 Voyager and the turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up & even then they are intermittent. I get a rapid clicking (no turn signal indicator light) when the steering wheel is in any other position. Has anyone had this problem? How did you fix it?

Your problem sounds electrical, as if you have a wire somewhere that is loose or pinched or even damaged some where along your steering column. Normally a rapid flash sound is an indicator of a blown bulb. My guess would be you many have a wire issue from you multi-function switch (turn signal arm) housing to the panel containing your combination flasher. In short, not an easy fix or easy to diagnose. If you are handy with a voltage / ohms meter then getting a wiring diagram and attempting to test conductivity of wires when activated in different positions may be your first step. The only parts that could be the issue besides the wires are bulbs, fuses, combination flasher and multi-fiction switch, but from what you are telling us it doesn't sound like any of those.