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Engineering/Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works?
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Old 06-04-2001, 08:35 PM   #31
SeanMax
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How do you change the filter without changing the oil too? Do you drain it out and then reuse it? If so I would just add new oil.
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Old 06-05-2001, 04:36 AM   #32
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I'm not completely sure, but on my car, at least, the filter is located so high up that I think it might be possible to simply unscrew it and not lose much oil....not sure though.
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Old 06-05-2001, 06:43 PM   #33
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Yep, your right. Your oil filter is higher than the oil pan where the oil drains back into. The oil filter contains an anti drain back valve that hold oil in the filter. This keeps the oil filter full of oil and reduces the amount of no lubrication time on start up. When you unscrew the filter that oil will drain out, wether you drain the oil or not.
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Old 06-06-2001, 02:18 PM   #34
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That's right Steve.

When you engine isn't turning your oil stays in the bottom of the pan, so how could it drain from the filter hole? It doesn't!

You do have to add one half quart of oil approx. because of what your filter retains.
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Old 06-07-2001, 10:23 AM   #35
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Yes I would have to also say Synthetic oil is a 100 times better than standard Motor oil......I myself use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic in my VR6 and I would even think of using something else. If you like to keep your car running well for time to come use Synthetic, but I you like having problems with your car and if you like shelling out money all the time keep using regular oil:smoka:
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Old 08-05-2001, 11:04 AM   #36
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Exclamation here we go.........

I've had numerous RX-7s all with 13b rotary engines. I had 3 with over 150k miles highest with 260k miles, engine is great and revs like no other.

What do I use ? Non-synthetic oil. Mazda says not to use it so I don't. The rotors lubricate themselves and synthetic oil will leave carbon deposits that will not burn off.

So I stick to 3k mile oil/oil filter change intervals. Now, when I was a naive 15 year old and got my first RX-7 with 120k miles. I wanted to start learning about cars, but my dad always said: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" so the oil wasn't changed in 30k miles and the car never had a tune up. But the car was fine even with that old "dino" oil, so it doesn't come to a surprise that synthetics could last 25k miles.

So will I switch ? Well I gave it a try on an old pist-on engine and it does look "cleaner", but what does that proove ?

It is all a matter of preference, but one thing I'll have to say is that I will never take it to a dealer or a place like jiffy lube unless I can see the work performed on my car, so I just do all the work myself

I am curious of one thing though... how can you just replace the oil filter w/o draining the oil, when the filter is located upside down on the bottom of the engine ?

Thanks for reading and sorry if I bored you.
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Old 08-07-2001, 06:19 PM   #37
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As was mentionned earlier, the oil falls to the bottom of the pan when the engine is off. The oil filter is higher than the pan, and therefore the oil doesn't leak out when you remove your filter.

You will however have to add 1 quart or so to compensate for the oil that stayed in the filter when it was removed.
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Old 08-09-2001, 09:34 PM   #38
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I'm not familiar with rotary engines. Synthetic oil has a higher flash point and is more stable than petroleum oil. So I think it would be fair to say that synthetic oil does too good of a job of lubrication for your rotary. It doesn't burn off as redily as petroleum oil , which in most cases is a benefit.
Anyhow, you are asking for trouble by not changing petroleum oil according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The oil will break down and acids and sludge will form.
Only a synthetic oil with quality additives can be designed for extended drain intervals. My opinion is based on test results and oil analysis. I have over 15,000 miles and 10 months on my last oil change. I will have the oil analized and the results posted to my web site this fall.
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