Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

[shorod]

I'm not saying that it can't happen, but I don't recall ever reading of a bad DATC in these cars, or Fords in general.

If you have the Ford part number off your DATC I might have one that I'd part with for cheap that you can use to help determine if it's the problem. I bought it when I was troubleshooting my wife's and it had no effect. Ultimately the problem with hers was the temp sensor. When I put the new temp sensor in and it worked fine, I also put her original DATC back in so I know both work properly.

You could also try resetting the DATC if you haven't already.

-Rod

[joegr]

Originally Posted by shorod

I'm not saying that it can't happen, but I don't recall ever reading of a bad DATC in these cars, or Fords in general. ...

-Rod

There have not been many, but I do know of a couple that failed on the LS.

[Smoke2071]

OK last update on this issue.
It has been resolved.

Seems the "new" DCCV from Auto Zone that saved a grand total of $60 over the OEM part from Ford was BADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
After checking everything I knew and was able to check, and getting tired of the wife bitchin about it, off it goes to the dealership for repair, and after they checked all the same things I did it was determined that the DCCV was the only thing it could be so it was replaced to the tune of $400 (160/part, 240/labor)

But it is fixed, wifes happy, and it was still cheaper than a new car.
Lesson learned, never trust that the "new" part can't be bad.
This was my first "gut" feeling if you will recall, but I discounted it because a "new" part wouldn't be bad and present the same symptoms as the "old" part.

Anyway, thanks guys for all the assistance and tech info.
Jimmy

[shorod]

That is a very unfortunate lesson learned, but I'm glad to hear it's fixed. Thank you for following up with the fix!

-Rod

[puzzle66]

I am new here to forgive me if I am only stating what has already been posted.
My 2004 LS DATC is really weird. I have run the self diagnoses but do not show any error codes. When the outside temp is cold I get warm air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side. When the outside temp is hot I get cold air on the driver side and HOT air on the passenger side. This car has been to the dealer six times before the warrant expired. (problem started at 20,000, now have 92,000 miles) They replaced what the mechanic called a heater control valve, the DATC head, and two temperature sensors. Sometimes I can get the system to work properly by just randomly punching buttons, andor raising or lowerin the temp. The next time I start the car I have the same problem again.
Anyone have a fix where I can get the same temperature from all outlets?

[joegr]

Originally Posted by puzzle66

I am new here to forgive me if I am only stating what has already been posted.
My 2004 LS DATC is really weird. I have run the self diagnoses but do not show any error codes. When the outside temp is cold I get warm air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side. When the outside temp is hot I get cold air on the driver side and HOT air on the passenger side. This car has been to the dealer six times before the warrant expired. (problem started at 20,000, now have 92,000 miles) They replaced what the mechanic called a heater control valve, the DATC head, and two temperature sensors. Sometimes I can get the system to work properly by just randomly punching buttons, andor raising or lowerin the temp. The next time I start the car I have the same problem again.
Anyone have a fix where I can get the same temperature from all outlets?

It sounds like they replace almost everything but some of the interior temperature sensors and the exterior temperature sensor. Does it read out the correct outside temperature? Has the interior ambient temperature sensor been checked/changed?

[shorod]

It would be interesting to see what the sunload sensor is reading as well. I agree with Joegr, it seems there is probably a temp sensor that is not responding correctly.

-Rod

[suire]

I want to thank all the contributors first. I have a 2004 T-Bird, which is the same platform as the Lincoln LS. You folks pointed me to the dual climate control valve, and it turned out to be just that.I pulled the valve and found that one side was completely clogged with gunk. I had had a radiator flush done about 4 months back, and they put sealer into the system. I can't be sure, but I would bet it is sealer gooping up the valve and not allowing the solenoid to close. My next step is to dismantle the clogged valve and to see if I could have spared myself the time and trouble of removing the valve by just alternately closing off one side of the outlet, then the other while still in the vehicle. That might have forced the plug out of the valve. Problem is, it might have forced the plug into one or the other of the heater cores. Anyhow, I replaced the valve with one purchased from Fast Parts, and they could not have been nicer, better, cheaper, etc. I hope my post helps the next guy.

[joegr]

Originally Posted by suire

I want to thank all the contributors first. I have a 2004 T-Bird, which is the same platform as the Lincoln LS. You folks pointed me to the dual climate control valve, and it turned out to be just that.I pulled the valve and found that one side was completely clogged with gunk. I had had a radiator flush done about 4 months back, and they put sealer into the system. I can't be sure, but I would bet it is sealer gooping up the valve and not allowing the solenoid to close. My next step is to dismantle the clogged valve and to see if I could have spared myself the time and trouble of removing the valve by just alternately closing off one side of the outlet, then the other while still in the vehicle. That might have forced the plug out of the valve. Problem is, it might have forced the plug into one or the other of the heater cores. Anyhow, I replaced the valve with one purchased from Fast Parts, and they could not have been nicer, better, cheaper, etc. I hope my post helps the next guy.

Here's an extra little heads up on plugged DCCVs. Be aware that the upper radiator hose where it Tees off to the DCCV has a plastic screen built into it. If the DCCV is clogged, there's a good chance that the screen in the hose may be clogged too. (This is true of at least the gen II V8s.)

[34Ford]

Well its been a LONG time since I started this thread. And to be honest I "just" got around to trying to fix the wifes car Monday.
Yea, its been that long. Long day tearing into the dash.
Anyway I couldn't find any problems and no codes. Dammit.
But while I was at it I took some pics to maybe help some of you find the discharge sensors under the dash and what the sensor looks like out. I was not sure how you took them out but I figured you just dig them out.

[34Ford]

And this motor is what controls the flap door for the lower vents, your feet.

[34Ford]

Well I took the LS to a mechanic to check the freon charge hoping it was low, but he said it looked good.
Dang it.

He said it has to be blend doors.

He said they are some way up near the firewall that I missed and that the whole dash and steering wheel has to come out to get to them. Oh great.
He was estimating around a thousand dollars if he did it.

So, I will try it, but I sure could use a exploded view of of this area I could download.

[joegr]

Originally Posted by 34Ford

Well I took the LS to a mechanic to check the freon charge hoping it was low, but he said it looked good.
Dang it.

He said it has to be blend doors.

He said they are some way up near the firewall that I missed and that the whole dash and steering wheel has to come out to get to them. Oh great.
He was estimating around a thousand dollars if he did it.

So, I will try it, but I sure could use a exploded view of of this area I could download.

You need a better mechanic. There are no air temperature blend doors on the LS. Air temperature is controlled via the DCCV by altering the amount of hot coolant allowed to circulate in each of the two heater cores.

[shorod]

Maybe the mechanic is referring to the cold air bypass actuator. You don't need to remove the dash to access and replace, just remove the LH instrument panel insulator and the LH floor duct, then go up from beneath the dash. It looks just like the other actuators. You should have been able to access the temp sensors in the same manner. I'm not sure how much of the instrument panel you disassembled.

-Rod

[34Ford]

Holy smoke. I have a mess.

But after taking out the instrument cluster I can see two more flap motors behind some of the ducts that is impossible to get out of the way short of removing the entire dash.
Could they not be opening, or stuck and letting the air from the heater core enter and not the air from the ac core?

All in total I know of 3 of these motors on the drivers side and the one up way high on the passenger side with a long rod that I cant really see what it looks like. It works.
And the lower one on the drivers side works too.

If I only had some idea how all this looked exploded and the air flowed.