GSR or CR-V????

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by eckoman_pdx

Turbonnetics is a perfectly reputable company. They make good turbo's.

Turdbonetics is the biggest farce ever. Shitty customer service, shitty prices, shitty products, they're a crap company. Never going to get any business of mine ever again. If you want a turbo go to precision turbo, or innovative. HKS turbos are just garrett parts matched together, mostly of off the shelf parts. Only reason I'd buy an HKS turbo is some of the stuff they get is direct from garrett of japan or garrett of australia, which makes it very hard to get in north america (look at the incon fiasco, garrett's 3037 BB turbos were on backorder to N/A for a year) He doesn't really need a boost controller either, ANY standalone can control boost more accurately than a manual or electric, and lets you datalog.

If you want a turbo, call up laskey racing and ask for art. He is the god of turbos, they're a PTE dealer and he will set you up with the proper turbo for your app. Make sure he puts magic touch on your turbo 817-243-2509

[S|L3NoZ]

The problem is that I'm in Quebec and the manufacturer you're talking about is probably in the US..... But maybe I can call for suggestions or anything like that.....

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by boosted331

Turdbonetics is the biggest farce ever. Shitty customer service, shitty prices, shitty products, they're a crap company. Never going to get any business of mine ever again. If you want a turbo go to precision turbo, or innovative. HKS turbos are just garrett parts matched together, mostly of off the shelf parts. Only reason I'd buy an HKS turbo is some of the stuff they get is direct from garrett of japan or garrett of australia, which makes it very hard to get in north america (look at the incon fiasco, garrett's 3037 BB turbos were on backorder to N/A for a year) He doesn't really need a boost controller either, ANY standalone can control boost more accurately than a manual or electric, and lets you datalog.

If you want a turbo, call up laskey racing and ask for art. He is the god of turbos, they're a PTE dealer and he will set you up with the proper turbo for your app. Make sure he puts magic touch on your turbo 817-243-2509

For the record, I am NOT staying you are wrong. I saying I know people who have bought turbonetics turbo's and got a good turbo and been happy. Of course, they have NEVER had to deal with custmer service. It's most lilkely like the Jackson Racing arguement. A few people got a bad supercharger, got horrible customer serive and then some people started claiming Jackson Racing sucked ass and was awful. That doesn't make them awful, that makes customer serive when you have trouble awful. Then again, I know of someone who had an AWFUL experience from JG Engine Dynamics. That Doesn't make them bad, so he got bad luck and screwed. JG knows their shit, and for the most part are very good. But it's something to keep an eye out for, definatly. I think the same goes for turbonetics. They arn't nessarly shitty, but shitty customer service "as you told me about" doesn't make them all great either. They are reputable, as in they have a good reputation with plenty of people. That being said, that by no means makes them the greatest company on earth. I know of plenty of people who like Turbonetics and by no means think it is shitty, and plenty who swear by Garrett. Just make sure to research what you get, Every company has complants of some sort. As for boost controller, I ment something like the Greddy Profec-B, or better yet the E-Manage, which does more than just control boost. I suppose I should have said that.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by S|L3NoZ

The problem is that I'm in Quebec and the manufacturer you're talking about is probably in the US..... But maybe I can call for suggestions or anything like that.....

If you are going to call into the US, call Performance LAB in Kirkland, WA and ask for Tim Anderson. That guy knows his shit, and could definatly help you find whats best for you/what you need. Tim will put it toghter correct.
1-425-820-7488
www.performance-lab.com

[LSCRX]

I did some research befor i built my car. Like you, i was looking into turbo. I decided to go ls because i want to build an all motor car, but back to you. Since your dad has a machine shop it should be pretty damn easy to do. Take the CRV block, install the b18 crank, rods, and pistons on stock parts you should be able to boost about 20psi. The b18 has a shotrer stroke so it revs faster and higher than the stokc b20. Also if you use tha b16a head it has a lower c/r that the b20 head so you can squeez a little more boost out of it. Ive heard the CRV-TECH is kinda of a tricky swap. You have to run oil lines and do some machine work to the block. As far as cams, crower.com has some cams thats for turbo apps.

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by LSCRX

I did some research befor i built my car. Like you, i was looking into turbo. I decided to go ls because i want to build an all motor car, but back to you. Since your dad has a machine shop it should be pretty damn easy to do. Take the CRV block, install the b18 crank, rods, and pistons on stock parts you should be able to boost about 20psi. The b18 has a shotrer stroke so it revs faster and higher than the stokc b20. Also if you use tha b16a head it has a lower c/r that the b20 head so you can squeez a little more boost out of it. Ive heard the CRV-TECH is kinda of a tricky swap. You have to run oil lines and do some machine work to the block. As far as cams, crower.com has some cams thats for turbo apps.

Hey guess what, you can't install LS pistons into a CRV block. And replacing CRV crank with LS crank would be quite dumb, considering they are the exact same crank, they're the same part number. B16 head on a b20 block will NOT lower the compression ratio. B20/B18B head = 45CC chambers B16/ITR head = 42.7CC chambers.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by LSCRX

I did some research befor i built my car. Like you, i was looking into turbo. I decided to go ls because i want to build an all motor car, but back to you. Since your dad has a machine shop it should be pretty damn easy to do. Take the CRV block, install the b18 crank, rods, and pistons on stock parts you should be able to boost about 20psi. The b18 has a shotrer stroke so it revs faster and higher than the stokc b20. Also if you use tha b16a head it has a lower c/r that the b20 head so you can squeez a little more boost out of it. Ive heard the CRV-TECH is kinda of a tricky swap. You have to run oil lines and do some machine work to the block. As far as cams, crower.com has some cams thats for turbo apps.

First off, it's spelled CR-Vtec.....NOT CRV-TECH. Remember, VTECH = A company that makes phones, Vtec = Variable Valve Timing Electronic Lift Control, a technology Honda incorporates into many of their Motors. There is a difference there. Remember, It's VTEC....NOT VTECH!!
Okay, secondly, When you put a Vtec head on the B20 Block, there isn't a lot of piston to vavle clearence. The Vtec heads have larger 33mm Intake valves vs the B20's 31 mm vavles. When Dyno tuning, contact will occur between the pistons and vavles if the cam is advanced much more than 4 degree's. It's adviceable to not advance the timing of the Intake Cam at all. Also, with the B20's, the B20B (97-98 CRV) is the low compression one (8.8:1). The B20Z (99-01 CRV) has a much higher c/r (I've seen both 9.6:1 for the JDM SMX and 10.2:1 for the 99+CRV listed). I won't mention anything else, as boosted331 covered some other problems. Also, with cams, if you run larger lift and duration aftermark cams on a CR-Vtec, this piston's vavle pockets should be modified and the piston to vavle clearence checked before the head is final and attached onto the block. Now, as for boosting a CR-Vtec, the B20 sleeves have been know to crack under the high compression caused by boost. If you think you are going to run 20psi on stock B20 sleeves, you are going to have nasty cracks and a messed up block. Now re-sleeve it and close the deck, and your good to go with that. But to say change out pistons, rods, crank, and you can get 20psi is nuts. There is NO WAY IN HELL the B20 sleeves will hold up under 20psi of boost...period. The LS block can handle more boost stock than the CRV block (the LS can handle 12psi on stock internals, more than the other motors, where 8psi is usually the limit). Even then, NO HONDA BLOCK can handle 20psi stock, end of story. Even with the pistons and rods swapped out. If you want to run 20psi, you have to re-sleeve the block and/or close the deck. Running 20psi without doing that is pure engine suicide, especially where the sleeve are concerned. You'll have one mess of a motor by the time you are done, and will be having to spend a hell of a lot more money than doing it right to begin with.

[S|L3NoZ]

I have some problems with technical facts......First of all, I don't know what is the internals and closing the deck..... I'm french and I don't know what this is. I'm bilingual but when it comes to some mechanical terms, I'm lost Another thing......I wanna make my engine 300 or 400HP but I don't wanna bring my engine somewhere and tell "Make this engine a 400HP" I wanna know and understand the steps to achieve my goal. If you know a website that explain all of this or anything else, plz tell me. I got a lot of help on this topic and I wanna thank you for it but still I need more knowledge.

[jcrx]

Originally Posted by S|L3NoZ

I have some problems with technical facts......First of all, I don't know what is the internals and closing the deck..... I'm french and I don't know what this is. I'm bilingual but when it comes to some mechanical terms, I'm lost Another thing......I wanna make my engine 300 or 400HP but I don't wanna bring my engine somewhere and tell "Make this engine a 400HP" I wanna know and understand the steps to achieve my goal. If you know a website that explain all of this or anything else, plz tell me. I got a lot of help on this topic and I wanna thank you for it but still I need more knowledge.

http://www.forum-auto.com/sqlforum/s...t8289-7385.htm
http://esprit.vtec.free.fr/page_liens.htm

Heres a couple site in french that may be a little easier to understand. I don't understand them, but I don't speak french. The first one is a board like this.

[S|L3NoZ]

Thx for those 2 links but I'm french from Quebec and I hate the way Europeen French speaks Don't suggest me french websites, I prefer english

[jcrx]

Originally Posted by S|L3NoZ

Thx for those 2 links but I'm french from Quebec and I hate the way Europeen French speaks Don't suggest me french websites, I prefer english

Well sorry, but if you are having trouble understanding some very important terms, maybe you should also talk about them in your first language. I understand your pain, I am in Germany, and it took me for ever to get a guy to understand what a LSD was. Selbstsperrdifferential, yea ok, I was going to figure that one out.

[eckoman_pdx]

Okay, I'll quickly explain what "closing the deck" is. Have you seen the inside of a honda motor? how surrounding the cylinder walls is.....a space of air between the outside cylinder walls and the rest of the block. It's not connected there? That is an open deck design. A lot a motors ment for heavy boost are of a closed deck design, that space of air isn't there. The outter cylinder walls connect to the block right there, no space. It's "closed" instead, directly conncting. This is a closed deck design. The closed deck = more reinforcement, more stable, it allows more boost as a result.A lot of the turbocharged Nissan engines have a closed deck design. You can run boost levels on a closed deck design that generally harm open deck design, especially when you consider then open deck design on a honda was not design with a turbocharger in mind. Re-Sleeving, is where you put in new sleeves, with thicker walls, to allow more stablitiy during forced induction apps. You can re-sleeve and still have an open deck design. What you are doing is not closing the deck, but bacially making the cylinder walls thicker. Then, some people do both. I persoanllyl feel safer closing the deck, vs just resleeving. I've seen some bad jobs re-sleeving.

The Internals, okay...this refers to....suprise...the internal componets of the motor. Replacing the Connecting Rods with new, stronger ones. Putting in stronger pistons (lower comprssion ratio for forced induction apps). The Vavles, springs, etc...put in new, stronger components there too. Thes are examples of replacing the internals. The Stock Honda Crankshaft should do you fine, so don't worry about that. Then you can also port and polish the head, the intake and exhaust ports to improve airflow. Better airflow = more HP. Also, a 3 or 5 anlge vavle job does also helps. I hope these examples help explain some of the terms I have been using a little bit.

[94tegRS]

ok, I knew mokst of the terms, and I have a block gaurd, that will : close the deck" correct?

and about the 5 angle valve job, what exactly do they do when you have a shop do this for you??

[S|L3NoZ]

Damn great!! These exemples were perfect to make me understand!! But how do I close the deck!?!? Probably parts they sell in stores....if not,how? And for the valves angle....I heard that 5 was the best.....can I do that by myself in my machine shop?? And there's probably something I should know to make it properly....

[S|L3NoZ]

I'll try to build my forced induction B18B1 with VTEC....you told me that to do so, you had to build the engine properly....I'll gather the necessary infos to do so....My plans are 300 or 400HP depending on my money....There's a lot of stuff i can do by myself....port & polish, evrything that requires machine shop work....The big deal will be bying the parts, knowing what to do and doing the proper mods so it won't screw up evrytime you guys give me good infos, i have a note book and I write it down....I'm really serious about doing this I'm not trying to lose your time or anything like that....later on I'll write down on this forum the notes I took so you can tell me if evrything's O.K. Thx guys