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03-09-2004, 10:05 AM | #46 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
Ok well I guess my next option is gonna be to replace the fuel pump system. But as you know Its very costly for a 98. But my mechanic said he can put an older year pump on it to save me alot of money. Hes convenced its not a bad conection but Ill have him check that before we put on the new pump. I know alot of people have tryed the fuel pump option but what else can I do??
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03-11-2004, 10:37 AM | #47 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
Im not sure if it is directly or indirectly liked to the securty light on my truck but it has somthing to do with it. My truck will somtimes start after ten minutes but some times it wont. regarless the security light will be flashing while the battery is on. so I called chevy and they said leave the key forward for 10 minutes and it will reset the security system. And after turning the key a few times it fires right up. BUT they told me this means somthing is going out and you need a speacial reader to get the codes for that light. witch im guessing chevy will be one of the only places with one. But basicly Im still at square one. I really dont want to put in a new pump so im holding off for as long as possible. I dont really know what in talking about so correct me if im wrong. Im thinking about just throwing in a v8 and blowing up this lil 2.2.
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03-11-2004, 10:25 PM | #48 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
My truck is still acting up, I CAN hear the fuel pump whiring after I stop cranking, I cranked it off and on today for 2 and a half hours and nothing, towed it to the dealer and the darn thing started!!!!!!!!!!!!
no codes ( made them hook it up to the computer) this week-end I'm going over every inch of wire in the engine compartment,,,wish me luck! |
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03-28-2004, 10:21 AM | #49 | ||
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Re: Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
Quote:
This certainly is a frustrating situation!!! I am having basically the same problem and I too am lost! My 1987 s-10 2.8ltr V-6 starts and runs fine 'UNTIL' it warms up. As soon as it does it's all over but the cryin'. When it runs long enough to hit that 'NORMAL' operating temp. the fuel shuts down and it will not start. I have had to have this sucker towed 3 times in 1 week.... (thank god for AAA).... When DEAD it still has spark. It's like the thing thinks it's overheated but it's not 'HOT'. After it sits awhile..... COLD.... it starts right back up and runs fine again 'UNTIL'... Well... You know the scenario... Here's what I have done (so far) to try to rectify the problem: CHECKED: 1. Wiring and all plugs and connectors to fuel pump/tank etc. 2. All other plugs and connections under the hood REPLACED: 1. OIL/FUEL SENSOR/SWITCH 2. FUEL PUMP 3. FUEL STRAINER 4. FUEL FILTER JUST PRIOR REPLACEDnot necessarily related) 1. ALTERNATOR 2. ALTERNATOR BRACKET 3. SERPANTINE BELT TENSIONER 4. SERPANTINE BELT 6 MONTHS PRIOR REPLACED: 1. BATTERY 2. BATTERY CABLES 3. WATER TEMP SENDING UNIT (NOTE) When I replaced the temp sending unit my temp guage had pegged but the truck was not overheated. I replaced the sending unit but the guage still pegged. Truck still ran fine though and later I discovered that there was a direct short in the wire that goes to the sensor. I repaired the short and all was fine again but at NO TIME did the short affect the running of the truck. The reason that I mention all of this about the sensor is because I don't understand the fact that if the sending unit/sensor is supposed to tell the ECM(?) to stop the engine if it senses a problem then why didn't the short affect the running of the truck? Good luck to all of you AND ME on resolving this as I too am REAL FRUSTRATED!!! Thanks for all of the info that everyone has posted. Dave |
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03-31-2004, 09:19 PM | #50 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
I started by cleaning the battery cables and the wire going from the ground side to the frame and it has been starting every day for the last 3 weeks, no stalls, no bucks no sputters. So far so good.
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04-01-2004, 02:22 AM | #51 | |
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More Parts
hmmmm.....
New prob. Replaced ignition module and MAP sensor today. Now NO FUEL from injectors. What a pain! |
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04-01-2004, 07:35 PM | #52 | |
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Back to Sqaure 1
Well about a month after replacing the oil pressure switch, I have problems starting my 1996 truck again. None of the symptoms are any different. Twice in 2 weeks it has taken a half hour to start since the first try. Only good things are that it hasn't yet quit while running (knock on wood) and warmer weather is coming. Its quite rare for me to have a problem with after mid April until the Fall.
Joshua |
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04-03-2004, 12:48 AM | #53 | |
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Kinda Hard To Believe
Okay All Concerned Individuals......
I, personally, find it kinda hard to believe but it's true! Somewhere I read a short message about injectors not working and almost shined it on. Thank god that I did not! I actually tried what I am about to tell you and it solved my problem. The message that I read told a guy to replace the ignition module (located inside the distributor on the 1987 S-10) because it was the cause of his injectors (Throttle Body Injection) not working. Well, I thought, what in the heck does the stinkin' distributor have to do with the injectors on a carburator not spraying (atomizing) the gas??? So, what the deal 'IS' that this IGNITION MODULE sends a signal to the ECM/PCM (brain) and tells it 'Okay, we have spark now shoot the fuel into the carburator'. So.... If the ignition module isn't sending that signal, even though you are getting SPARK it isn't going to run because NO FUEL. So basically, with my S-10, what was happening was when the ignition module was COLD it worked enough to start the truck and then when the engine warmed up the module OVERHEATED and the ECM/PCM lost the SEND THE FUEL SIGNAL and Walah!!! Dead truck! As soon as it cooled off the module would send the signal again. By the way.... in a previous message where I said that I had replaced the Ignition Module but then my injectors quit working was caused by mechanic error (ME). When I plugged the connectors on the new module I missed one. That's because the distributor is right up against the firewall and it's real hard to see back there. Thanks for the input and all the info in this thread. It has been a great help and I have learned alot from all of you! Dave |
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04-03-2004, 12:55 AM | #54 | |
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P.s.
Just a quick P.S.
I think that I know WHY the module failed (MAYBE).... I had replaced the ALTERNATOR just prior to this ignition module problem so I think what happened was the module (which was an original part) was on it's way out already and maybe the new fresh alternator caused a bit more power to go through the system and perhaps pushed the module over the edge... Just a theory... Thanks Again! Dave |
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05-17-2004, 12:25 PM | #55 | |
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Fuel pump
I had a 89 chevy caprice and it did the same thing and the fix for it was a new fuel pump the check vaulve had gon bad. I found a good shop that changed it for 85 dollars but I have come to believe that that was aful cheap.
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05-17-2004, 12:26 PM | #56 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
check vaulve is bad replace your fuel pump
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06-09-2004, 11:34 PM | #57 | |
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Hi all
Been having the s a m e problem with my 86 IROC Camaro!....weird huh? My have to replace my oil gauge, it has false readings (too High). I am suspecting the fuel pump is also acting up as the last reply mentioned. |
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07-09-2004, 03:13 PM | #58 | |
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88 4.3
Does this happen to anybody at a take off after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving? My blazer cuts off at take from a light. No codes are present, just a 12 code. I wait stalled for about 10 seconds and it starts up again. I then hammer the gas at take off to get me out of the intersection. This is an everyday occurance and i'm at my wits end. I've replaced the egr, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and it still does it. I think that maybe from what you guys are saying, that it's tied in to my oil pressure switch. My oil pressure guage reads zero pressure. It's been reading that for some time. Also, I'm debating about changing out the MAP sensor because the sputtering and stalling only happens at take off. voltage change/ pressure change/ manifold. Jeez...I'm in desperate need of serious help. I'll also pitch in for a prize if somebody had a sure fire fix on this.
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01-23-2005, 09:47 PM | #59 | |
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Re: Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
i have an 87 s10 with the same problem. new filter,pump,injector and grounds. can not figure out why i can drive it for 2 days w/out problems and boom 1 day dead... next two no problem... well u get point.
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01-24-2005, 02:48 PM | #60 | |
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Re: S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start
i have a 2000 2.2 with the same problem. It started after i installed a new fuel pump. I can drive for about 15 min with no problem then it just starts sputtering and dies. Starts up after about 10 seconds. after it dies the firts time i cant drive more than a mile without it dieing again. here goes the list of all the stuff i have replaced since the fuel pump:
1. fuel pump plug 2. fuel filter 3. ECM module 4. gas cap 5. oil pressure switch 6. ran gas cleaner and premium fuel 7. checked the wires to verify connection was fine. My check engine light doesnt come on all the time. When i took it to auto zone to get the codes read they said it was my gas cap. That didnt make any sense but i replaced it. I still cannot get this problem fixed Im trying to sell my truck very soon and this is the last thing i have to do to it. I dont thing anyone is gonna buy a truck that only runs for 15 min... |
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