Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

[shorod]

Somewhere along the way this forum helped me find good instructions on how to replace it. I don't think you'll find much difference across the model years. I'd suggest you search the forum for 'DCCV' and you should find the information. If you try the search and don't find it, let us know and one of us will track them down.

-Rod

[LincolnLS05]

Thanks Rod.

I have found removel/installation instructions for DCCV for both V8 and V6, which differ slightly on allexperts.com . They also include diagnostics instructions after installation. See below and hope this helps others. Our beautiful LS's seem to have this common issue all across the board. Thanks Lincoln , you build a beautiful vehicle and tighten up your expenses on parts.

This is for the Dual Coolent Control Valve

Removal V8

1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-12 for details.

3. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.

4. Remove the passenger side upper radiator support bracket.

5. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from radiator.

6. Remove air conditioning receiver drier retainer and position aside.

7. Disconnect the auxiliary coolant flow pump electrical connector.

8. Remove the 2 (two) bolts from the auxiliary pump on radiator fan shroud.

9. Disconnect the heater hose at intake manifold and at the bottom of auxiliary pump.

10. Remove the auxiliary coolant flow pump.

11. Raise the vehicle.

12. Remove the lower splash shield.

13. Remove the bolts for the DCCV bracket.

14. Lower the vehicle.

15. Remove the retainers for hydraulic cooling fan reservoir (passenger side of engine) and position aside.

16. Mark the heater hoses at the DCCV for identification and disconnect the 3 (three) quick disconnect fittings. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00.

17. Disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.

18. Disconnect the heater hose at upper radiator hose.

19. Remove the DCCV.

20. Transfer the hoses and bracket from old DCCV to new DCCV.


Installation

1. Reverse the removal procedure to install new DCCV.

2. Torque the DCCV bracket bolts to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

3. Torque the upper hydraulic cooling fan reservoir fastener to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m) and lower/side fastener to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

4. Torque the auxiliary coolant pump fasteners to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

5. Torque the air conditioning receiver drier to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m).

6. Refill the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

7. Repeat Steps 1-3 of the diagnostic procedure to verity repair.


Removal V6

1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

2. Mark the heater hoses at the DCCV for identification and disconnect the 3 (three) quick disconnect fittings. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00 for details.

3. Remove the retainers for hydraulic cooling fan reservoir (passenger side of engine) and position aside.

4. Remove the throttle body. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-04A details.

5 Remove the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-14 for details.

6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from radiator and position aside.

7. Remove the air conditioning receiver drier retainer and position aside.

8. Disconnect the heater hoses from upper radiator hose T-fitting and water pump.

9. Disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.

10. Raise the vehicle.

11. Remove the lower splash shield.

12. Remove the bolts for DCCV at bracket.

13. Lower the vehicle.

14. Remove the DCCV valve with hoses and bracket attached.

15. Transfer the hoses and bracket from old DCCV to new DCCV.


Installation

1. Reverse the removal procedure to install new DCCV.

2. Torque the DCCV bracket bolts to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

3. Torque the upper hydraulic cooling fan reservoir fastener to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m) and lower/side fastener to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

4. Torque the air conditioning receiver drier to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m).

5. Install the throttle body using a new gasket, Part Number XW4Z-9E936-BA. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-04A for details.

6. Install the IAC using a new gasket, Part Number E83Z-9F670-A. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-14 for details.

7. Refill engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

8. Repeat Steps 1-3 of the diagnostic procedure to verify repair.

Diagnostic Procedure:


NOTE MAKE EVERY ATTEMPT TO VERIFY THE CONCERN. IF THE A/C COMPRESSOR IS NOT OPERATING UNDER ANY DATC COMMAND THIS ARTICLE WILL NOT ASSIST IN THE REPAIR. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR INFORMATION.

NOTE BEFORE PERFORMING THIS ARTICLE ALL APPLICABLE PIN POINT TESTS IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL, BASED ON SYMPTOM, MUST BE PERFORMED. IN ADDITION, BASIC DATC SYSTEM CHECKS SUCH AS REFRIGERANT CHARGE LEVEL AND DATC SYSTEM POWERS AND GROUNDS MUST BE VERIFIED AS ACCEPTABLE BEFORE CONTINUING.

1. Start engine and ensure it is at full operating temperature. Set DATC to 90°F (32°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.

2. Set DATC to 60°F (15°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.

3. Measure the output temperature at the registers. Depending on local current atmospheric conditions, the coldest reading may be approximately 45°F (7°C).

a. If sufficient temperature drop is achieved across all registers within +/- 10°F (6°C), the vehicle is operating normally. No additional service is required. Stop procedure at this point and return vehicle to customer.

b. If all or some measured outputs are greater than 45°F (7°C), or temperature difference between registers is greater than 10°F (6°C), continue with Step 4.


NOTE WITH THE DATC TEMPERATURE SET THE SAME IN BOTH ZONES, SOME LEVEL OF TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE FROM DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER SIDE SHOULD BE CONSIDERED NORMAL A DIFFERENCE OF UP TO 10°F (6°C) MAY BE OBSERVED DEPENDING ON AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY LEVEL AND IN-VEHICLE TEMPERATURE.

4. Open the hood and remove the cowl vent screen to gain access to the heater hoses at the heater core inlets/outlet. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 501-02 for details.

5. Clamp off the three (3) heater hoses going into and out of the heater core, as close to the heater core as possible. Refer to Figure 1.

6. If A/C performance is restored, remove the clamps from the heater hoses and proceed to Step 7. If A/C performance is not restored, the concern is not caused by the DCCV. Remove the clamps from the heater hoses, restore the vehicle to original condition and refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 412-00 for further diagnostics. Do not continue with this article.

CAUTION DO NOT SHORT THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING HARNESS C134 (LS) OR C1168 THUNDERBIRD) PINS 3 OR 6 TO PINS 1 OR 4. DAMAGE TO THE DATC MODULE MAY RESULT IF THIS OCCURS.


7. Shut off engine. Unplug C134/C1168 and check the resistance of the DCCV. Measure across pins 4-6, and pins 3-4. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

a. If resistance is above or below 13-20 ohms, inspect C1034 at the DCCV for connection integrity, corrosion and damage. Repair as needed to restore. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

b. If resistance is above or below 13-20 ohms and C1034 is not at fault, replace the DCCV, Part Number XW4Z-18495-AA. Refer to "Replacing the DCCV" at the end of this article for details.

c. If resistance is acceptable, continue with Step 8.


8. With C134/C1168 disconnected, verify available voltage to the DCCV.

9. Start engine and set DATC to 60°F (15°C). Measure the voltage between the engine compartment harness (14290 side) C134/C1168 pin 4 and ground.

a. If voltage is less than 12 volts, check for open F101 or repair circuit 30-FB3 to restore voltage. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

b. If voltage is greater than 12 volts, proceed to Step 10. Refer to Figure 3.


10. With C134/C1168 disconnected, lift the lid on the Underhood FPDB (Front Power Distribution Box) and locate the power feed terminal at the drivers side, rear corner of the box. The lid must be lifted for the terminal bolt to be visible.

11. Verify DATC control assembly is providing a ground for the DCCV Solenoids. Start engine and set DATC to 60°F (15°C).

a. Measure voltage between the FPDB power feed and pin 3 of C134/C1168. If greater than 12 volts, proceed to Step lid.

b. If less than 12 volts, inspect circuit 91S-FB3 for high resistance or an open between C134/C1168 pin 3, and C228b (LS) or C228a (Thunderbird) pin 5, at the DATC control assembly. Repair wiring as required. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

c. If circuit 91S-FB3 is OK, install a new DATC control assembly, Part Number XW4Z-19980-CA (2000-2002 Lincoln LS), 1W6Z-19980-AA (2002 Thunderbird). Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-04 for details. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

d. Measure voltage between the FPDB power feed to pin 6 of C134/C1168. If greater than 12 volts, the DCCV may have a mechanical concern internally. Replace the DCCV, Part Number XW4Z-18495-AA. Refer to "Replacing the DCCV" at the end of this article for details.

e. If less than 12 volts, inspect circuit 91S-FB4 for high resistance or an open between C134/C1168 pin 6, and C228b (LS) or C228a (Thunderbird) pin 6, at the DATC control assembly. Repair wiring as required. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

f. If circuit 91S-FB4 is OK, install a new DATC control assembly, Part Number XW4Z-19980-CA (2000-2002 Lincoln LS), 1W6Z-19980-AA (2002 Thunderbird). Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-04 for details. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

[LincolnLS05]

OK, I actually changed my heater control valve and have AC, Woohoo. First time doing mechanical work, pretty simple, took me about an hour. Took a shortcut and clamped off the hoses. Hardest part was getting my big hand in there to take off the bolt. Anyway, it's done and its fixed. This also seemed to fix the problem of my Serv (P) light constantly coming on. I read somewhere that it was linked and so far it appears that way, it's been 24 hours.

[shorod]

Congratulations! And thank you for the detailed instructions and follow up post.

-Rod

[RJLipscomb]

LincolnLS05

What was the name of the DCCV part ordered from Amazon, was it - Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve?

[LincolnLS05]

Hi RJ, yes, it was the YG378.That's the one for my 2005 V6 LS. Make sure you check which one goes with your model, because the YG355 has a totally different configuration. It was simple to do, but took time with my big hands. Instead of draining cooling system, which instructions call for, I took a shortcut and clamped the 3 hoses coming into the DCCV. Tight space, but take your time and it will be worth it. I'm slowly becoming a DIYer in many different aspects, if I can do it, so can you.

[LincolnLS05]

OK, did a little research which should hopefully help others out in this situation. Once you determine through your diagnostics or another form that your issue is the Heater Control Valve (DCCV). The Motorcraft Parts number are as follows. For 2000-2002 LS's, Part Number is YG355, for 2003-2006, the Part Number is YG378. These part numbers are for both V6 and V8, the 2006 only came in a V8.

[RJLipscomb]

Thanks, ordered one from Amazon as well. I like the hose clamp idea. Will perform the repair once received (next week?). I'll post my procedure used when complete. I have big hands and arms as well as a bad back (right now).

[RJLipscomb]

Rod -
How do you drain the coolant, is there a drain valve or plug. (2006 LS V8)

[RJLipscomb]

Please ignore that last post. The drain plug is on the bottom of the rad on the right (passenger) end.

[RJLipscomb]

Well, what a mess, apparently didn't drain enough coolant and now it's all over me, the car and floor.

[RJLipscomb]

Well, new DCCV in and all hoses reconnected. Tomorrow I have to replace the coolant (wring out my shirt and shoes will probably do the trick) and then give it a try. Any special procedures/instructions for "bleeding" the cooling system?

[shorod]

Originally Posted by RJLipscomb

Any special procedures/instructions for "bleeding" the cooling system?

There are procedures and tips for bleeding the cooling system. There's another fairly extensive thread or two on the subject.

A search of the forum yielded the following, among others:
Click Me, Part 1
Click Me, Part 2

-Rod

[RJLipscomb]

A/C is working again! Good thing, since the temps will be well over 100 this week. Now time to go boating!

Procedurally, I did everything from the top side except drain the fluid. I'd find a better way to drain the fluid next time since it cost me time and grief. I'm with you Rod, that connection frustrated me the most. I actually figured it out by looking at the one on the throttle body.

I'm not sure if I have bled the system properly or not. I'll check again tomorrow when I have extra help.

[JJ's LS]

I have to add a note on what happened to my '02 LS (60,000 miles) in the hopes that it will save someone hours of knuckle busting work.
My LS had the same symptoms as above, drivers side was blowing cold passenger side was blowing hot. Took the DCCV out and cleaned it, finding that it was operating normally I reinstalled it and went to the codes...there were none. Next I swapped the sensors in the plenum to see if that would make a difference...no change.
I gave up and took it to the dealer who diagnosed the problem as a bad compressor and wanted $1500 to fix it. I wasn't going to pay that so I started to leave. Just as I was pulling out a young man walked up and said that if it were his car he would try to put a little freon in it first.
It never occurred to me to check it but as soon as I got home I jacked the car up and threw a can of R-134 in it. Presto! Good as new! Just a slow leak in the front seal of the compressor.
I used to be that freon was the first thing you would check but with these new dual climate control systems, there are so many thing that can go wrong it never occurred to me that some freon had leaked out over the last 6 years. Total cost of repair $100.00, $93.00 for the diagnosis and $6.77 for a can of freon at Walmart. I guess I owe that kid a $20 for the advice.