2004 Sebring LXi, 2.7, passenger window goes down only...?

[miki75]

In the last 3-4 months occasionally I couldn't open the passenger window from the Master switch, if there is nobody in that seat. It worked when a person is in the seat. So I assumed that there might be a sensor, which responds only when there is a person there (not very smart though...). Fine.
Yesterday it happened again. So I tried the switch from the passenger side. It opened the window, but it couldn't close it back. Same from the Master Switch. Now the window is half open. The other 3 windows are working fine.
No noise when it moves down (so the regulator should be OK).
Checked the fuses - all are OK.
I opened the passenger door trim, checked the switch itself - is shows continuity to one of the cables, but not to the other.Assuming that the 2 neighbour cables should correspond to Up and Down. There are 2 groups: 3 and 2, totaling 5 in the passenger door. Don't have any schematics

Tried to switch the cables and make the window to close with Open-command --> no result.

What options I have to close the window?
Is it the motor... running only in one direction ?
How can I check the Switch? Is it possible to be the Master Switch the problem?
What should I do to disconnect the motor and remove/ replace it?

PS: there is a strange noise when I put the ignition in ON position, which I didn't hear before. Something like ssszzzzdt, very low volume, lasting 2-3 seconds, coming from the control panel direction. No idea if this is Normal or connected to the main issue.

[hundahunta]

if you have a digital meter connect it to the motor it should show battery voltage with the meter still connected with the meter still connected the polarity will switch and you meter should show a the opposite battery voltage.

[hundahunta]

check the vt/wht and br/wht wires those are from the master switch. it should have battery voltage in both up and down...

[miki75]

Thanks for the reply hundahunta,
I do have a digital meter, but I can't get the motor cable plug out, or the motor itself. Any help with this?

Here is a scheme of the switch connectors, front look:
1: 3 : 5
Yellow: violet : vt/white --> should be window up
4 : 6
br/white : brown --> it is window Down

Measured continuity so far:
OFF: 3-4, 5-6
Up: 1-3, 5-6
Down: 1-6, 3-4

I was wondering if in the Up position it shouldn't be 1-5 instead of 5-6... , because disconnecting cable 6 disables window moving Down, but disconecting 5 doesn't stop the motor to move down.
Which meas that they operate independently... right?
What next?

[Mikezayed]

I have a 98 sebring, and i was having a similar issue, only would work from one switch both ways and not the other (only down with the pass switch) changed the switch and fixed it. I would say change the one switch on the pass side, it should work, if it does, then change the master switch and should fix the problem.

[miki75]

Originally Posted by hundahunta

check the vt/wht and br/wht wires those are from the master switch. it should have battery voltage in both up and down...

Thanks for pointing this hundahunta, that was the issue. I needed some more guidance in order to make a proper diagnose, so now everything is back to normal.
Here are some steps, which I followed:
1. check the motor (brown and violet from the passenger switch), because in my case it was working down.
So, I changed the places of brown and violet in the passenger switch and... Command: Down --> window moves Up.

2. Check the passenger switch: replace one of the rear doors --> window works both ways. Switch is OK.

3. Check the wires violet/white and brown/white, which are coming from the Master Switch: no continuity or voltage on the violet/white. Brown/white has a voltage on Up and continuity all the time.
So it has a wiring problem.

4. Double check that it is the only one: connect a temporary wire in the place of violet/white: window moves both ways from the Master and the Passenger switch.

5. Locate to wire cut: most used is the driver' door, so get the coupling from the door frame (that rubber between the door and the body) and check both ways the continuity.
Yes, it is between the Master switch and that coupling

6. Replace the wire with a proper one (14 AWG). Done. All working now.


Thanks for the reply mikezayed, it looks like you had a similar issue, but not exactly.

PS: the costs of the Master switch = $122 (+tax), Passenger switch = $47 (+tax) from the dealer; time to locate the problem and fix it: about 20 hours (hey, I am not a professional, so I have done some extra unnecessary work). So what would say the dealership or a nearby car shop for doing this... maybe $650, or over $1000 if they would say that the switches were defective :-)
What it cost me: 20 hours labor + 25 inches wire.