Inaugural HPDE in GTWS #18

[Foghorn37]

All,

I know this forum isn't as active as it was when I first bought the car, but hopefully this post will catch a few views...

Also, technically it's not my first attempt with the car, but its been years and the last time was abbreviated to a few laps during one session due to a failure.

My first attempt was at Streets of Willow back in 2012, and I only completed a few laps due to electrical gremlins, specifically the on/off/momentary start toggle switch used to start the car (I stalled the car in the pits and couldn't get it restarted). I have fixed that by separating the start/run functions to a regular toggle and start button.

So now I have finally gotten organized enough to give the car its due attention and will be going to the 10/10ths HPDE at the Natl. Corvette Museum track in Bowling Green, KY this weekend.

I am worried that I will break something (c'est la vie with an old race car)...and there is only so much that I will be able to fix at the track. Any advice, info, or anecdotes that ya'll can share about problems you had would be appreciated. I would rather give whatever it is more attention now before loading the car and heading to the track...and/or be prepared to fix it in the pits if I have a failure.

I do have one issue that concerns me, but currently isn't a show-stopper: the electric fan runs all the time, which I know isn't right, but I haven't found the issue yet. The car starts and runs fine, any ideas?

Also, I opted to run Nitto NT-01 tires in 275/35r18 instead of shelling out bigger $$$ for Hoosier R7s. I figure that slicks are overkill for my driving ability anyway.

Thanks in advance for any feedback...

R/
Butch

[CapriRacer]

First, you should check the torque on the wheels BEFORE EVERY TIME on the track.

You can set the tire pressures for the first session, and they will probably be good for the whole day.

You should take a few tools - a set of sockets, some pliers, wire cutters and electrical connectors (I have a box of assorted connectors). Spare oil and an opener. Duct tape. And a jack. If you have jack stands take those, too! paper towels.

When I was actively racing I took all my tools (2 rollaways!), along with my nuts and bolts trays and containers of misc. stuff - antifreeze, grease, tape, etc. All that fit in my van, with room leftover for 2 crew members (barely).

[Tntgolden]

Hope your weekend went well and the car is in one piece. The fan Issue is likely the control module or the temp probe. Two easy options - buy a fan control kit from Summit or Jeggs - easy and cheap - get one that is adjustable..... or just wire it to a toggle so you can turn on and off. I run a GTS at HPDE days and went this route. Once out on the track at speed can shut it down, just remember to turn in on when you come off track. Keep the Panoz dream alive!

[Foghorn37]

Trip Report for the HDPE:

Overall it was a great weekend. The car ran great and handled exactly like I expected that it would. After a few sessions to get the tire pressures figured out, I was able to run consistent 2:36 on the NCM Full Course (incl. the sinkhole).

The fan issue sorted itself after one on-track session, so I figure either the battery was just charged enough or the relay control module just neede to be jostled around a bit.

The only real issue we had all weekend was the clutch / transmission. It was almost impossible to complete a shift regularly. After a while, I gave up on the clutch and just mated revs best I could and crammed it into the gear I wanted (mainly 3rd and 4th). Second gear would have been useful, but it was too hard to get third in a timely manner, so I just lugged it out of the tight turns.

When I bought the car, it had a poorly engineering cable clutch that was so hard to disengage it ruined the driving experience. I replace that with a hydraulic clutch using a Wilwood pedal / master cylinder and a pull-type slave cylinder from Panoz that attached to the stock clutch fork. So...press on the pedal and nothing. Clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled clutch. Checked all the fasteners, etc. After an hour or so of troubleshooting, it turns out the slave cylinder was sliding in the bracket I made instead of actuating the clutch fork. $1.79 at Lowe's and that was fixed.

Still, even with the clutch disengaging like it is supposed to, the tranny was hard to shift on a consistent basis. I haven't explored why yet, but I'm thinking the sychros are worn out. The Hobbs meter shows 615 hours, and I doubt the transmission has ever been serviced (No maintenance records came with the car).

I need it to be quieter for when they really enforce the 103dB limit. Any muffler recommendations that will fit in the Panoz bodywork?

[thr]

I have some knowledge about your issues. just got back on the forum because i was looking for body panels.Hope your car is doing well

[Foghorn37]

Did another HPDE at NCM over Memorial Day wknd. Over the winter I had the transmission rebuilt/upgraded to a TKO-600 spec, and replaced all the bearings/races in the Panoz semi-remote shifter.

Same issues with shifting. It works fine when cold and upshifting when leaving the hot pits. Doesn't like downshifting and rev matching was required. As the transmission warmed up, it wouldn't upshift consistently, either.

I'm too emotionally hijacked at the moment (and it's been several days) to go out and look at the car much less actually work on it.

For mufflers, I used Summit Racing chambered mufflers, 3" center in/center out, located about 3" behind the header collector. If I was over 103, the sound police didn't black flag me.