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Old 09-24-2003, 01:29 PM   #1
snipez
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rotten egg smell

hi
i have new wires, new plugs, new alternator


would a smell of rotten eggs be coil related?



the car takes a second longer to start when cold
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Old 09-24-2003, 03:11 PM   #2
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this is not a good sign, u could have some serious problems with your engine internals, i would get this checked out by a mechanic ASAP
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Old 09-24-2003, 03:39 PM   #3
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Some clutches smell like rotten eggs when u burn them. So if your riding your clutch that could be it.
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:41 PM   #4
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Re: rotten egg smell

Quote:
Originally Posted by funkdaflex1
Some clutches smell like rotten eggs when u burn them. So if your riding your clutch that could be it.
its an automatic,

just had a tranny flush
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:11 PM   #5
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sometimes bad cats will make the exhause smell like that
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Old 09-26-2003, 01:46 PM   #6
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well first i'd try a shower j/k but could be cat conveter do you have an aftermarket one or a strait pipe? might be something in the motor too.
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Old 09-26-2003, 03:24 PM   #7
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For something to smell other than its original form there has to be a catalyst, and in most cases its heat. So, lets start analyzing what it could be. Fluids, rotating metal, and the exaust. Since you just had the tranny flushed, Id check that first. Some mechanics can't even put the oil plug back in good after its changed, let alone do anything with something "more complicated" like a tranny. What i'd do is check all the fluid levels and mark them off, to make sure I wasn't burning or loosing anything. BTW: when does it smell? Like does it go away if it sits for a while with the windows down?

What do you mean by the car takes longer to start when its cold? You mean longer than it normally would? Usually unless something that frozen or drained the car should only take a few compression strokes to start (assuming you haven't done alot of work to it). I'd go with ace's suggestion too, check everything thats not stock, first.

I know for a fact that burning clutches (or plates, whatever) stank pretty bad, so if your tranny is about to go, it could be a sign.

HTH
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Old 09-26-2003, 04:23 PM   #8
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Re: rotten egg smell

I had no catalytic converter last summer and with the windows down on a hot day it was pretty rank... check your exhaust.
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Old 09-27-2003, 05:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
What do you mean by the car takes longer to start when its cold?
It just cranks about a second longer when cold. If I have been driving around for awhile, then turn it off, it starts up no problem. And another problem is the engine is super loud when cold. All the power is there, its just a loud whurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.


My whole tranny and engine is under warranty, how can I fuck it up and make it look like an accident? lol
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:47 AM   #10
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Usually a Honda that takes a little longer to start, after setting for awhile can be caused by:

1. Leaking injector
2. Fuel pump - there is a check valve in there to maintain pressure after shut down.
3. Fuel pressure regulator - it's failing causing the pressure to bleed off.
4 Plugs & wires - which you have akready re-placed...

As far as the rotton egg smell, most of the time that can be realated to running a little to rich. Might have the fuel pressure checked, this could also be causing the above mentioned...

Just some thoughts...
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Old 09-29-2003, 12:33 PM   #11
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its your cat convertor bro, it happens all the time. any car also takes longer to start when its cold also, that isnt a problem.
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:56 PM   #12
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I would like to recite a passage that I fould while looking for engine overhaul info, I think it will help...

its from the Chilton honda crv manual...

"8. vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven

a. check for a leaking intake gasket or vacum leak causing a lean running condition. A lean mixture may result in increased exaust temperatures, cauing the catalytic converter to run hotter than normal...

b. Check the vehicles alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overchanrging, the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin to crack, swell or buldge... if this occurs, neutralize the area with baking soda and water solution and replace."


HTH
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Old 09-30-2003, 03:02 PM   #13
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Re: rotten egg smell

yikes... doesn't sound good
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Old 09-30-2003, 03:46 PM   #14
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Ok, I think ive got your problem solved. Intake and exaust, thats about all it could be. The manual said look for intak problems causing a lean condition. I know for a fact when the intake is loose or off, it is loud, I also know that when you run a 2stroke engine lean (i havent run a 4 stroke lean before) that the exuast is REALLY loud (of course im talking lean enough to kill it). So based off of this, I would suggest taking off the intake manifold and replacing the gasket, along with the throttle body, of course thats what I would do, youll probably have to justify it for yourself (becuase I have no idea how much that would be), but I would defintely check all the bolts on the intake against the torque specs in a manual, or make sure one isnt missing or something like that. A loose exaust can also cause a lean condition, but thats usually fixed with the FI system, so that wouldn't be my best guess.

HTH
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Old 10-02-2003, 10:26 AM   #15
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A vacuum leak on a Honda will not cause a "lean" condition in a properly running engine. It will just give you a uncontrolable idle, at least on a 4 cylinder. However if you have other things going on, could make a differance. In fact it's really hard to make a Honda run lean when troubleshooting. Usually you will have to dis-connect a injector, before you will really see a change from the output of the O2 sensor. Even then the ECU will just give the other injectors more fuel...

Honda's use a "Speed/Density" system for management, which is very different from the rest of the automotive world. Meaning, anytime the MAP sensor sees more air in the intake from a leak. It will tell the ECU to make the injector pulse width a little longer. To compensate for the added air, causing the idle to speed-up rather then going lean. Thats why you can add a CAI, and not worry about the engine running lean from moving more air. Otherwise, we would have to being playing with the fuel pressure, or injector pulse width with external sources. The MAP/PA sensors are doing it for us automatically in most cases. Here again on a properly maintained engine...

Have you pulled the plugs and checked their color...?

I never have ran across anything about how a v6 is managed tho. Soooo, that may be a little different story. hehehe
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