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Old 02-03-2007, 04:25 PM   #46
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Re: Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

1998 Corollas are eligible for extended warrantly/free repairs

The evaporative emission control system warranty will be extended from the current two years or 24,000 miles to 14 years or 150,000 miles. The extended warranty is estimated to cost Toyota about $3 million, and will reduce emissions of hydrocarbons by affected vehicles by an estimated 30 tons, in addition to the 1,200-ton reduction of hydrocarbons achieved by the supplement environmental project.

Owners who have not received a notice within 12 months are encouraged to contact their local Toyota dealer. Owners of affected vehicles who suspect a problem with their evaporative emission control system (including the smell of gasoline vapors) should contact an authorized Toyota dealer for service under the extended evaporative system warranty. Toyota will not cover the cost of repairs or diagnosis for systems other than the evaporative emission system or for repairs performed by parties other than authorized Toyota repair facilities.


See the following list for affected vehicles:



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Old 02-11-2007, 04:27 PM   #47
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Re: Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

HARD STARTING

Q: My vehicle (100k miles) is acting up when I try to start it on cold mornings (-10,-15 deg C) Canadian weather.

The starter turns 2-3 times then it stops while all the lights in the dash are on. Usually when I try the second or sometimes the third time, the engine eventually starts. Some mornings the starter does not make any noises at all when I try it the first time, but after I try the second time it turns rather slowly and eventually the truck starts up.
I had the same problem about three weeks ago and I purchased a new battery. The truck started OK all this time but now I have the same problem again.

The truck starts OK during the day except when it is parked for 8 hours or more.
I never liked the way the truck starts since I purchased it 2 years ago. The starter needs to turn 4-5 times before the engine starts. All my previous vehicles started at one turn (4 cyl cars).

A: 1. How long a drive do you take? If the new battery solved your problem and now it's back, then it may be you are not driving the truck long enough to charge the battery. Along with this, you may have a big drain on your battery because of an accessory that is running, such as a large amplifier/stereo, etc. A high-current drain would make your alternator work much harder and longer to get the battery recharged. Starting the vehicle in the cold puts a large drain on the battery and the alternator can only put out a limited amount of current to replace that used in starting. Check your battery. If it is poorly charged, then it is likely that the alternator or alternator connections are your problem. It may also be that your alternator drive belt is loose and slipping so that you are not charging the battery as well as you could. Check the drive belt for the alternator and make sure it's tight as it should be.

2. In that respect, your alternator may be inadequate to recharge your battery. Consider having it's output checked. It may not be putting out enough juice to charge the battery quick enough to keep you going. Also, the cable from the alternator may be bad and limiting the current to charge the battery. If you find that the alternator is fine, but the battery is not well charged because you don't drive it but 10 min after you start it, you can replace it with a higher curent alternator to charge the battery faster. Again, make sure the cable from the alternator is in good shape.

3. Help your truck get started by making sure the plugs are fresh and you are using a light-weight synthetic motor oil. Dino oil gets thicker when it is older, but not synthetic. I would recommend you use 0W-20 Mobil1 or equivalent brand in Toronto in the winter.

4. A high-capacity battery is also necessary (as I'm sure you know from living up there). When you buy a battery, make sure you buy one with alot of cold-cranking amps. Maybe, your battery isn't up to the task of day-to-day starting because you didn't get one with adequate reserve capacity.

5. If the truck doesn't start right away under the best of circumstances, you may have a fuel delivery-related problem. Check your fuel filter, lines, and fuel pump to make sure you are getting fuel pressure quickly. There should be no delay in building up fuel pressure. A kink in the line, a dirty/clogged filter, or a bad fuel pump can delay starting until the pressure is adequate. The engine will not get the necessary rich mixture to start until the fuel pressure is up to spec. A rich mixture may not be available if the injectors are partially plugged. You can try cleaning them with some gas treatment or bring them to a shop that specializes in fuel-injector cleaning.

6. Check the current draw on the starter. If the starter is going bad, it will begin to draw alot more current to do the same work and drain the battery to a much greater extent than a good starter. This will make charging the battery take alot longer and wear out your battery sooner.

7. Under any circumstances, a high drain on the battery will cause a loss of electrolyte. Check the electrolyte level in your battery (all cells) and make sure they are up to the recommended level. Fill them as needed with distilled or deionized water.

It's one of those chicken and egg problems where the engine is not able to start quickly and thus drains the battery. The drained battery turns the engine over more slowly and makes it more difficult to start, which drains the battery further.
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:44 PM   #48
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Re: Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

Programming Factory Keyless Remotes

http://programyourremote.com/
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Old 05-06-2007, 01:08 AM   #49
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Re: Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

BREAKING-IN NEW ENGINES

An interesting article on breaking in 4-stroke engines from a very successful engine builder.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And one about breaking in Lycoming aircraft engines.

http://www.lycoming.com/support/tips...Operations.pdf

See the first page...

"A new, rebuilt or overhauled engine should receive the same start, warm-up and preflight checks as any other engine. There are some aircraft owners and pilots who would prefer to use low power settings for cruise during the break-in period. This is not recommended. A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings. Pressures in the cylinder only become great enough for a good break-in when power settings above 65% are used.
Full power for takeoff and climb during the break-in period is not harmful; it is beneficial, although engine temperatures should be monitored closely to ensure that overheating does not occur. Cruise power settings above 65%, and preferably in the 70% to 75% of rated power range, should be used to achieve a good engine break-in.

Remember that if the new or rebuilt engine is normally aspirated (non-turbocharged), it will be necessary to cruise at lower altitudes to obtain the required cruise power levels. Density altitudes in excess of 8000 feet (5000 feet is recommended) will not allow the engine to develop sufficient cruise power for a good break-in.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power se
ttings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break-in procedures.

To summarize, there are just a few items to remember about engine break-in:
1. If a preservative oil has been added by the aircraft manufacturer, drain it no later than the first 25 hours of operation;
2. Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendation regarding the oil to be used for break-in and the period between changes;
3. Run the engine at high cruise power levels for best piston ring/cylinder wall mating;
4. Continue break-in operation for 50 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. These simple procedures should eliminate the possibility of cyli
nder wall glazing and should prepare the engine for a long and satisfactory service life."
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:56 PM   #50
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Re: Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

Battery Ratings

According to Consumer Reports, car batteries cost and ratings are as follows (best ratings are at the top of each Group):

Group 65
DieHard Platinum 50065 $180 90
Duralast Gold 65-DLG $97 80
CR Best Buy Kirkland Signature 12866 $75 78
NAPA Performance Select 8465 $90 77
AutoCraft Titanium 65-2 $90 77
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-65N (North) $75 76
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-65S (South) $75 73
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-65 $114 72
DieHard Gold 33165 (South) $110 67
Duralast 65-DL $88 66
DieHard Gold 33065 (North) $110 62
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-65 $100 60
DieHard 30065 (North) $90 54
DieHard 30365 (South) $90 50

Group 34/78 & 78
DieHard Platinum 50090 $180 91
Optima RedTop SC34U $150 76
Deka Intimidator 9A78DT $188 75
DieHard SUV, Truck and Van 39990 (South) $120 72
CR Best Buy NAPA Select 84 34/78 $82 67
CR Best Buy AutoCraft Titanium 34/78-4 $83 66
DieHard SUV, Truck and Van 39890 (North) $120 66
Orbital Exide Select ORB78DT-84 $172 66
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-78DT $113 63
Duralast Gold 34DT-DLG $95 63
EverStart Maxx-78N (North) $75 60
EverStart Maxx-78S (South) $75 59
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-78DT $99 52

Group 24 /24F
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-24 $101 83
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-24N (North) $75 82
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-24S (South) $75 78
DieHard Gold 33123 (South) $110 76
Duralast Gold 24-DLG $89 75
AutoCraft Titanium 24-6 $85 72
DieHard Gold 33023 (North) $110 59
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-24 $88 43

Group 35
Duralast Gold 35-DLG $93 79
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-35N (North) $75 79
DieHard Gold 33035 (North) $110 78
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-35S (South) $75 73
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-35 $90 68
DieHard Gold 33135 (South) $110 64

Group 75
Duralast Gold 75-DLG $89 75
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-75 $100 75
AutoCraft Titanium 75-3 $85 74
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-75N (North) $75 73
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-75S (South) $75 73
DieHard Gold 33075 (North) $110 72
DieHard Gold 33175 (South) $110 69
CR Best Buy Kirkland Signature 12869 $60 68
NAPA Select 84 8475 $90 68

Die Hard At Sears and Kmart only.
Duralast At AutoZone only.
Kirkland At Costco only.
NAPA At NAPA only.
Autocraft At Advance Auto Parts only.
EverStart At Wal-Mart only.
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