Another......"HOW TO" prepare a body for primming and painting - Page 2

acunda · 01-27-2003, 05:33 PM

thanx Pman for the post!! great stuff!!

endlesskev86 · 01-27-2003, 07:03 PM

YEH for P-man......
i think you should make a book on "how to MODEL" .... it would be a best-seller!

man... i did what was instructed and now my DC5 is very shiny...

thnx alot!!!

primera man · 01-28-2003, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by endlesskev86
YEH for P-man......
i think you should make a book on "how to MODEL" .... it would be a best-seller!

man... i did what was instructed and now my DC5 is very shiny...

thnx alot!!!

Glad to hear it work out O.K

Camber · 01-30-2003, 04:28 PM

Thanks for the Tutorial P-Man! When you put it in the microwave, how do you fit it in with it on the stand? and when you go to take it off the stand, wont you get all fingerprints on it? Thanks.

primera man · 01-31-2003, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Camber
Thanks for the Tutorial P-Man! When you put it in the microwave, how do you fit it in with it on the stand? and when you go to take it off the stand, wont you get all fingerprints on it? Thanks.

I have a older type microwave that is alot bigger then the modern new ones

hermanchauw · 01-31-2003, 04:20 AM

Thanks Pman for the tips.

Jedi801 · 02-04-2003, 03:40 PM

I just tried this out on my Opel and it looks pretty good. I'll try and post a pic later.

What do you do when dealing with decals? do you put clear over the decals and then polish?

RyanGiorgio · 02-04-2003, 05:15 PM

Heh, i wouldn't leave it in the micro for too long, it could melt!

Murco · 02-04-2003, 11:34 PM

To add an extra step, if you get fingerprints on the body before you paint or you want to make sure no hard-water, or other residue is left on the body use this....

Final rinse with distilled water so it dries clean. This removes all oils as well!!
Good luck!
Russ

chaos · 02-04-2003, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by primera man

[i]Make sure you sand the car well...removing molding lines etc. Finish off with 1200 grit paper.

Just wondering what grit you start off with?

primera man · 02-05-2003, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by chaos

Just wondering what grit you start off with?

Start with 600 on the molding lines only, then 800 on them again.
Then do the whole car in 1200 grit

Purpura Delujo · 02-05-2003, 03:56 AM

That is a great guide Pman, but one question. Do you think it would work with, graffiti spray cans? I've done some research and figured that graf cans are better for models. 500ml for the same price as 300ml of Tamiya, you can also attach different types of caps to get a different effect on applying paint. Example, If I use a "fat cap" I can go through the whole tin in less then a minute. if I used a fat cap I could spray the whole car in less then 2 seconds

I'll try it and let you know how I go. Yet another question though, do you use the sandpapper on the whole body to make the body have a very light texture? In other words make it more rough and less glossy then the plastic.

Jedi801 · 02-05-2003, 09:19 AM

Graffiti paint? Is that what they call Krylon now? =]

Pman what do you do when dealing with decals?

primera man · 02-05-2003, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lowriders4Life
Yet another question though, do you use the sandpapper on the whole body to make the body have a very light texture? In other words make it more rough and less glossy then the plastic.

First off...i'd give the paint a miss ....IT WILL END UP AS ONE BIG PAINT RUN I.M.O

Correct about the sanding....it sound almost be as smooth as when you first started but no gloss. The primer will then give it a baby's bottom finish

Jedi801....have a look in the FAQ...it's all in there

Jedi801 · 02-05-2003, 03:34 PM

Maybe I'm retarded I didn't see it in the FAQ. I saw the section on polishing and the section on decals but not on polishing over decals.

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