Yet ANOTHER "security light" thread.... except...

[SierraK1500]

Originally Posted by Iflylow

My Imp will start and run great even without the cluster installed...

Sidebar:

If you do take the cluster out and the vehicle runs........when you re-install the cluster the computer will need to re-learn the cluster as if it was new.

Will take 25-30 mins with the key OFF otherwise your speedo and gages will NOT work properly.

John

[HeMi101]

Originally Posted by SierraK1500

Sidebar:

If you do take the cluster out and the vehicle runs........when you re-install the cluster the computer will need to re-learn the cluster as if it was new.

Will take 25-30 mins with the key OFF otherwise your speedo and gages will NOT work properly.

John

Not sure if thats true on the impala, I've also run my car w/o the Cluster, and worked fine upon reinstalling.

[REDNJ]

Hi All,

After struggling with this problem concerning the Pass Key-2 synchronization, I'd like to pass on what I experienced.

I came across several methods for getting the new lock/cylinder to synch up with the BCM (Body Control module). In the end, believe it or not, none of these worked as prescribed on MY vehicle (2001 Impala LS).

But, what needs to be understood is the Security Light Flashing indication. You only get this by turning the ignition from Off all the way to Start, and letting it rest at On/ACC. For my car, any subsequent repeat step of turning the key back to Off, wait 5 seconds (or 30 seconds, or whatever), then turning to ON/ACC never produced a flashing Security Light Indicator.

That begs the question: What is the flashing Security Light Indicator? Answer: It is when you see the word "SECURITY" flash of and on three times in 3 seconds on the dashboard. On my car, this ONLY happened when I tried a complete Off to START key turn. I did not stop at ON/ACC. When I did turn Off, then turn to ON/ACC and stop, I did get what I thought was a flashing Security Light. Insted, this is simply an alternating status on the dashboard indicating there is a security issue (yellow Security indicator) and a battery drain indicator (RED BATTERY symbol).

Lastly, given my experience, I don't believe it takes 3 tries to get the synchronization done. But, if it does, so be it. The key is to wait long enough (usually at least 12 minutes) for the true Security Light flashing indicator to stop and the only thing shown is the battery drain red indicator. Then turn the ignition all the way off ( you can wait 5 seconds if you like, or thirty) then turn the key all the way and try and start the car. If the car starts, Whew! If not, repeat the steps until it does. If the Security Light never stops flashing, then something else is amiss. And it might just be the BCM. I wonder if the replacing of the BCM does an automatic synchronization which is why when there are problems that can't be resolved, the replacing of the BCM "magically" works!

Please don't knock the messenger. I was grateful for the posts that got me this far. The dealer was of no help!

[BUSHY409]

H i new here ,, but had a probum in my S 10 [99] and used a formn to fix it it weas leaded gas wen it was 4 bucks a gl. melted the cat and would

Now down to brass tacks my old lady 2000 impla wont start not sure what is up with it .. I was fine then she let her sun who she thinks is ths best mac. in the whole word work on it ,, I told her not to let ANY ONE WORK ON ANY OF HER CARS BUT ME AFTER ALL HE IS THE BEST ,, he is just a parts swaper dont read any thing before he starts dosenot got a book just stars to take thinks apart real good with lown mowers but they dont have ECM PASSLOCK 2 etc any way he took the readater out along with one head light batt. weth out diaarming anything you should have seen it looked like CHOP SHOP has not beem right sence put my batt. in shout every thing off worked for a week or so ,, her batt started my car after it set for a week so that tells me somthing !! making a fool out of me and it is my fault becouse I told her bye it ,, the stuped little red light flashes all the time is that what you all are talking about

About any car my buddy dumped a cup of coffee in the concole of his new arccer {SP] legand now tranty wont work go in gear make any nose move burn jump so much for rice burners I have a70 RSSS that runs 9.90 on small bc so dont tell me chevys did not make good cars once in ther history

How do git back to default on this one
I have had 5 SSEi Bonny's and put up to 199,000 miles on them hard miles fryed a trany or two but the will fly I see they will run 160+ in the Silver State callange so I dont git it on this one I am GM all the way but thie is a bit to much ,, Got my old lady a new car it is a 65 Ford Galaxie XL conv. 390 CE code 330 hp matching number car and only paided 1500 for it and from the sound of things it will cost that much to fix the impala she gave it to me HELP ME !

[CRDuncan]

We are still missing a lot of facts. The black plastic square with the 3 pin connector on the key cylinder housing. What exactly does it do for the car? How is it tested? Is it a proximity sensor? Is the passkey 2 sensor the piece of black plastic imbeded in the cylinder between the two copper strips? Can it be tested? if so how? It sounds like everyone is doing something that they don't really have the facts on and of course everything works since the problems are intermittant. My wife believes opening the trunk fixes it but you and I know better, right?

[CRDuncan]

Does anyone have a test for the black box on the ignition case. It is a 3 pin connection to the ignition harness and has the numbers printed on it:
599096AA1
7122
Mexico
I am guessing that this is the location of my problem as it is no longer reading a correct resistance and telling the BCM to turn on the security light and refuse to start occasionally.

[CRDuncan]

I found the link that promised a complete explanaiton of the passlock 2 system but when I tried it I just went to the auto parts web site that has no information.
Also I have a 2002 Impala and see no reason to pull the radio. Pull the lower panels unbolt that metal shield and drop the ignition switch down and over towards the steering column.

[CRDuncan]

Here is the report on my 2002 Impala security light. I had 2 times when I had to wait for a restart after a trip to the store. The security light would come on while I was driving and I could guess what was coming next. I purchased the IB-PLJX bypass module and connected it as follows. The blue wire to the little yellow wire on the ignition switch harness. The black wire to the little black wire on the ignition switch harness. The red wire to the huge red wire on the big plug at the back of the ignition harness. There are 2 large red wires on the 2 plugs and both read hot all the time. I started the car and held the little button on the PLJX module until it blinked and the instructions say it has learned the bypass. I am putting the dash back together and will start driving the car again to see what happens. All the instructions I find everywhere are so pecular and not very helpful. Most say take out the radio but on my Impala there is no reason to go near the radio. I unbolted the switch and pushed it back and dropped it down so I had plenty of room to work. Of course I removed all the lower panel and the instrument upper dash panel. I will let you know how this works out. I had gotton a remote start a couple of xmass ago but I don't think I want to add it to the crazy chevy with all the bypass and expensive bcm etc why take a chance? I may put it on the dodge truck.

[relic12003]

Originally Posted by covertcelery

Just FYI to you guys about what to try to clean out your ignition cylinder... This was a helpful excerpt from one of the admins on AF.

Xeroinfinity sent me the following information:





BTW: I think he means "cylinder" whenever he was talking about "cleaning out the switch"...


Just a quick fyi to some of you that are going to try this... Get a small can of compressed air. You can find this at Wal-Mart or something (in the computer/electronics isle). It's like $2-$3 a small can... Radio Shack sells them, and a lot of other places do... Make sure and buy one with a little straw that you can blow the air through; this way you can actually put the little straw inside the cylinder and blow the crap out of it in a much more effective way IMHO.

Good luck.

-CC

Good day, I have a similar problem, along with a couple more, and thats on another post. But they all may be connected. I don't know. I have that problem, along with not being able to start on occasion. On 4 occasions I have not been able to start my car for some reason in the past 5 months or so. I boosted twice, and she started, Third time thought it was the battery, boost didn't work, new battery worked. Forth time, boost didn't work, played with wiring, and took out starter relay (crank) and tapped it on the inner fender, she started. Still got warning lights going off when driving...(tracton off, abs, security on occasion, parking brake, ), but everything seems to be operating ok. I appreciate any help youo can give me on this. Thank you for your time.

[relic12003]

Originally Posted by HeMi101

Just wanna throw one thing in if it was to get stickied (I don't know if its been said in this thread anywhere), don't suddenly think your ignition switch needs replacing. Try cleaning your ignition and try your spare key for a week or 2, as a worn key causes the message too.

I've had problems with getting key cut right, so i got sick of this one sided key (only works if a certain side of the key is pointed up.) so i switched to another key, and no PL2 message for bout a week now.

a good sign that your ignition might be going is: At night, the courtesy lights don't come on when you pull your key out or if you jiggle your key with your door open, and it stops dinging.

Good day Hemi, I have a '05 impala, and have been having some of the problems listed here. I have been using a key cut at WalMart since these problems started. The reason being is the "original " keys broke the plastic where they retain on the keyring. I have dashlight security lights randomly coming on (abs, trac con, pk brake, pass lock). On occasion, won't start, (4 times in as many months), turn the key, lights go out, like a dead short, old/new battery/ replaced battery, thought that was problem. As I have asked in a forum I have posted, need all help I can get please. Thank you for your time.

[THFRO]

I have experienced this problem several times since I bought my used 2001 impala over a year ago. It had an aftermarker remote starter on it, which I had removed and the problem still returned after several months. I tried the wait 10 minutes to restart and leaving the key in the on position for 10 minutes before restarting. Both processes have had intermittent success. One day, when all elsed failed, I tried the same procedure that you can use to reset your change oil light on some GM cars. Take the key out and open the door so all power drops off. Then insert the key and turn it to the on position without starting the car. Fully depress the gas pedal three times, then step on the brake. I have only tried this twice, but it worked immediately both times. Not a perminent fix, but it has gotten me home.

[zoemayne]

I had this problem I luckily had a can of air in my car blew it into the ignition a big crumb flew out the car started it and i've never had the problem since(its been a year).

[EZONMYI]

Or you can bypass it all together and have a car that starts every time. message me

[Paul Krumrei]

Stupid Question, the Auto guy told me the BCM has to be in the car in order for it to be re-programmed? Is this true.

I replaced the Key/Ignition Switch a month ago, reprogrammed it and everything worked great. Went to start the car yesterday, totally failed didn't let me reset and now it will not start and get the 3 flashes of the security code again.

It's an 02 Impala LS with the 3.4?


HELP!

[87TTops]

I'm going to assume this thread is necro exempt.
I have noticed something interesting with my failing PK2 system. It just happened to me now, but it has happened in the past as well. It failed to start, so I frustratedly tried a few more times and then gave up and waited the required half hour. I went at it again, and it failed again. Knowing for sure that I have another half hour to wait, I gave it one more angry, hail mary turn, and it started right up.

Does it not reset the timer every time you turn the key after the first failed attempt? Did I just not wait the full 30 mins, and that extra ten seconds was all it needed? Or did the key finally hit the right spot? Why did this happen?