My 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport

[Dbrigg]

I have to start by saying, thanks a bunch for your community’s willingness to help give extremely valuable information to basic car owners like myself. It’s helped me really start focusing on knowing more about the vehicles I own. I saw a post back in 2008 about a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport that had issues with the instrument cluster going dead whenever a left/right signal or hazard lights were activated. That exact same thing happened to me about two weeks ago and I’ve been trying to read and research solutions as well. Unfortunately, I’m not car savvy so I don’t even know what help to ask for. I initially tried what was easy for me, disconnecting and reconnecting battery – then changed instrument cluster – pulled center bezel to check for a short – checked all head and taillights, pulled the FCM off the PDC to clean pins and checked all fuses in the IPM to make sure they were not blown. Unfortunately, that’s the extent of my knowledge/skill. When I first bought the car used in 2003, I picked up the Haynes 1996-2002 manual but mostly take the van to the mechanic outside of me changing interior and exterior lights… so I have your community to really thank for me getting that far. Having said that, I’m determined to fix it myself because I can’t afford to send it to a mechanic and none of the above attempts fixed the issue. I decided to try to get and install another IPM from a yard but this task may be way over my head. Plus, when I called, I was told it wasn’t called the IPM, it’s the BCM. From what I read in the earlier threads, I don’t think my BCM is under the dash inside the car because my VIN has an “R” in the last 8 digits. Any thoughts how I remedy this and get my dash/lights working again?

[RIP]

"Plus, when I called, I was told it wasn’t called the IPM, it’s the BCM."

Two ways to look at that. Were they saying it wasn't caused by the IPM but thought the cause was the BCM or did they actually think the IPM was the BCM? If it's the latter they are FOS. The BCM is bolted to the firewall between the parking brake pedal and the regular brake pedal: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/am...2_001008_1.gif

The combination of the PDC (fuse box) and the FCM bolted to it is called the IPM. When someone says check fuses in the IPM in reality it's the PDC you're checking. When they depict fuses on wire diagrams they show fuses in an outlined box labeled IPM. Time as made IPM/PDC interchangeable on 4th generation vans.

Looking at a wire diagram the turn signals don't use the FCM. The BCM applies a ground to the turn signals depending on which you select.

I've read threads where the gauges and turn sigs are dead. Fixes for that range from a blown hazards fuse to a broken wire at the connections on the bottom of the IPM leading to the hazards fuse. Could be that connection is just corroded to the point when any load is placed on it (you turn on the turn signals), it kills the cluster as well. Might have a look. It appears to be the brown wire (?) at the blue plug at lower left: http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/q...6593/large.jpg

[Dbrigg]

Thanks much for your reply, RIP. Actually, after scanning the net and researching over the past couple of weeks, your thread here with 01caravan back in 2008 really gave me the inspiration and confidence to tackle this problem on my own. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t920202-discuss2001_gc_short_in_hazard_circuit.html
None of my fuses are shorting out like 01 but I figured I was in the right ballpark to address the problem since it seemed like the same issue. When I called several places, people from the boneyards were stating that they didn’t sell IPMs by themselves as 01 stated he purchased. They were saying that I would have to buy the whole system as a 3 piece (BCM, PDC and FCM). After reading your thread with 01, all I wanted was a new IPM (PDC with attached FCM) so I could do as he did and attempt to replace mine as well. And according to 01, he also said that his BCM is integrated into the FCM. See quote.
“01caravan09-08-2008, 02:18 PM
RIP..........I was finally able to get one of the local service techs to provide some information today.....He states that the 2001 Model Year was a model change and depending on what letter was indicated in the last eight digits of my vin would tell him where the BCM was located. If 'R' is in the last eight, the BCM is integrated into the Front Control Module (FCM). If the letter is something other than 'R', it is located in the left kick panel (driver-side). Will do more troubleshooting this evening. My VIN contains an 'R', so .....this evening I plan to disconnect the FCM to see if it eliminates the short.”
I don’t know how true that is but I was willing to pull the panel under my dash to verify that because my VIN also has an ‘R’ in the last eight digits… but I’m reluctant to do more scoping work than necessary in fear of breaking my panel clips or doing unnecessary work so I didn’t do it. I will look under the IPM when I get home to continue my search. Three questions: 1) How do I get full access to the connectors underneath the IPM? Is it simply by removing the battery? 2) Is an IPM difficult to remove if necessary? 3) Since I have a multimeter, would I be able to check the wires with it to see if the wires are working correctly? Thanks a ton RIP!

[RIP]

Buy whole system? Yup, I've read of some salvage yards requiring that. Have you checked around the net? Ebay may have one.

The quote? I would sure like to say that's bogus as hell. That is the one and only time I've read that on any forum. Trouble is there's always that chance Chrysler got froggy and made a limited run of that configuration. 2001 was the first model year of the 4th generation vans. Could be they were experimenting with a limited number of vans. Easy enough to figure out. Look for a box to the left of the brake pedal bolted to the firewall. Here's a video of what you should see if there is a BCM. They give an ID and clear picture of it at the 2:40 mark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5K0je-uhow

Remove IPM? I've never had to. I do know you have to remove the battery first

[Dbrigg]

Thanks for the video link! I did check out the underside of my dash and lo and behold, the 2001 I own is very different from the one in the video. See uploaded pics. That means that the BCM has to be built into the FCM, as 01caravan stated. That also means I would have to get a PDC and FCM from a similar model that has the ‘R’ in the VIN. I didn’t notice any frayed or broken wires so I spent hours last night cleaning and lubricating all connectors, wire harnesses, fuses and every slot in the PDC in hopes of the issue simply being a poor, corroded connection that needed cleaning. No such luck so the junk yard venture it is.

[Dbrigg]

A few more Pics

[RIP]

Did you remove that black panel in your pic referred to as a "hush panel" in the video? If there is a BCM it should be easily seen with that panel removed. What is your VIN number? What's the part number on the FCM? Have you floated this by your dealership yet?

[Dbrigg]

I actually did not know what he was talking about when he mentioned hush panel. Ohhhhh. I guess I'll be back under there tonight when I get home. I have not run this by my dealer yet since I didn't want to go that route if it wasn't necessary. I guess now is a good time to do so but I'll start with the hush panel and search underneath for the BCM. Thanks!

[Dbrigg]

Done and done! Thanks much, RIP, for stretching my limits and challenging my uncertainty and beginners anxiety. When I took off the hush panel, I saw an absolute mess.I had an aftermarket alarm system installed back in 2003 and it started acting up in 2011 so our mechanic disabled it. The issues really come to life when I, the owner, actually have to try to figure out how to fix the problem.Much respect to all savvy and expert mechanics out there! I spent the next 3 days removing all that alarm garbage and cleaning up/repairing cut wires so the car could start again. Once finished, I was clearly able to see the BCM! I took a picture, pulled out the connectors, cleaned and lubed all the pins and connected everything back. Still did the same thing so I called all the salvage spots within 45 minutes of the house and nobody had a 2001 BCM to replace mine. All of the sudden this afternoon, I tried to start the car and it just clicked... tried again and it attempted to turn over but didn't... and finally did the third try. On my way to run errands (at 40 mph max because my car is now locked in one gear as of about ten days ago but I guess that's another forum), I realized that the cluster no longer shut down! Nothing short of a miracle because I can't say there was anything else I did that caused the functioning! See pics...
Now on to my new problem that I'll diagnose via the dealer tomorrow morning. Thanks again RIP and the great help from the YouTube contributors! Those excellent resources were the only way I'd have the confidence to take out an aftermarket alarm and tackle the BCM, FCM, instrument cluster, center bezel and IPM issues.

[Dbrigg]

Final pics...

[RIP]

Yikes! That is a mess. Great to hear you found your way through it. As for the cluster well it's maddening when things fix themselves but the main thing is it's working. Maybe it was a wire in that mess or something with the BCM. At least you know the area to go to if it dies again. Anymore particulars on your new problem?

[Dbrigg]

Yes sir... bought the car to the dealer since the tranny went into limp mode... thought all the work was for naught and had to retire my buddy. But, alas, was a transmission control module problem and an EGR valve error, plus connector. After being given the quote for 806 stacks to repair, I ordered a programmed TCM from eBay for 120, bought an EGR valve in stock from my local AutoZone for 70 and the egr connector for 15. I had no idea what the "connector" quote was until I tried to connect the new EGR valve, only to find one of the two pins from the old EGR lodged into the connector in my car... searched that issue as well and found out that the broken off pin problem is not uncommon. Tried for a couple of hours to dislodge it and gave up after pushing it in more. Will report back when all of the supplies get delivered...