Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | AF 350Z | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
| Latest | 0 Rplys |
|
Show Printable Version | Email this Page | Subscribe to this Thread |
|
Thread Tools |
09-02-2004, 07:57 AM | #1 | |
AF Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Replacing Starter on 1993 Range 3.9
So I just recently bought a 1993 Range Rover County 3.9 with about 114K on it, and no less than two weeks after I bought it the car wouldn't start, but just kept turning over (couldn't jump w/a Civic). I towed it to a dealer, and $900 later the roller button, distributer pickup, and amp module were replaced. It worked fine for another week, and then it wouldn't start again, this time it just made one click (couldn't jump w/a Civic). I towed it to a different dealer (closer to my house), and they said the battery had a dead cell in it, and replaced it for a cool $140. So I am running out of money, and not even two days later it wouldn't start AGAIN! It just makes one click and that is it. I was going to have it towed to the dealer again, but the AAA guy said it was probably a bad starter, and that I could replace it rather easily. Well, I bought one, and it isn't becoming that easy of a job to do....lots of parts in the way so it seems. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to get this sucker out (it has Allen head screws)? I would appreciate any advice on the subject. What was a great deal has turned sour quick, and I don't want my wife telling me I told you so for grabbing it so quickly. Sorry for the log post. I'm new here and would love to enjoy my Rover as much as the rest of you...er most of the rest of you do.
|
|
09-03-2004, 06:07 PM | #2 | |
AF Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Emu Plains
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
It's pretty easy to pull the starter.
First undo the battery cable at the battery. Unscrew the battery cable from the starter - I can't remember the size even though I took my starter off last week - 1/2" or 9/16" You'll need an 8mm or 5/16" hex driver - one you can fit to a socket which will be on a long extension bar - to fit the two bolts which hold the starter to the engine. A universal joint is also needed. With a really long extension, you can do the unbolting from under the front without crawling under too far. In fact it's easier as you can get the long extension in to the top bolt. Ron |
|
09-16-2004, 06:57 PM | #3 | |
AF Regular
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 180
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
1991 Range Rover starter replacement at 169K miles
Symptom: Starter motor runs (free-run) but does not engage. Concern: Frozen bolts since I believed this was first removal, over 13 years (confirmed). Key Tools: 8mm hex socket, 3/8” breaker bar, 6” extension bar, 13mm wrench 1) Disconnect Battery 2) Remove heat shield from exhaust manifold (2-13mm bolts) to access top bolt 3) Loosen and re-tighten lower 8mm hex bolt (this gives indication of difficulty) 4) Clean top bolt if required (carb. cleaner, rag on small screw driver) 5) Insert 8mm hex into top bolt with 6” extension bar, use breaker bar from below. 6) Note: upper bolt holds ground strap going to frame 7) Remove lower bolt (which also holds lower heat shield) 8) Remove lower heat shield which is clipped on to solenoid 9) From above pull starter back-end up and remove small wire from solenoid 10) Cut plastic strap holding large cable to solenoid (this is + feed to chassis) 11) Remove 13mm nut holding battery cable and chassis + feed 12) Reverse procedure for installation (also: clean and sand the lugs on battery wire and + feed prior to connecting to solenoid) There is limited access from below but sufficient. Rotate hex socket for best alignment for breaker bar. I tried using 6”+10” extension bars on top bolt. It cleared the engine mount but I could not get a straight shot at bolt. This combination may work with an universal joint (I tried this before removing heat shield.). Also with upper heat shield off it may be possible to get top bolt from above...try it and let us know. Original starter: Magnetti Marelli M78 (aka Lucas) manufactured June 1990 I took starter to a local electrical rebuild shop. Cost was $135 pre-tax. Failure: This is a gear reduction type starter. Plastic gear used in reduction was stripped of teeth. Of course, many other items were bad condition. Replacement starter: Bosche (I believe SR0802X). It was about 1.5” longer. Shop said it was better, used in later models. I read it is better cold start. Same 1.4kw rating. Below is application and substitution charts I found, use at your own risk !! From: PRECISION PARTS AND REMANUFACTURING, 4411 S. W. 19TH OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73108 http://www.pprok.com/pweb/c/wbg?v_pn=LUS801 http://www.pprok.com/pweb/c/wic?v_pn=LUS801 PPR P/N:LUS801 Applications Model Year Engine Defender 92-95 3900cc Defender 96-98 4000cc (V-8) Discovery 94-95 3900cc Discovery 96-02 4000cc (V-8) Discovery 03-03 4600cc (V-8) Range Rover 87-88 3500cc (V-8) Range Rover 89-92 3900cc (V-8) Range Rover 93-97 3900cc (V-8) Range Rover 93-02 4000cc (V-8) Range Rover 96-98 4200cc (V-8) Range Rover 96-02 4600cc (V-8) PPR P/N: LUS801 OE PN Manufacturer 17453 LESTER 1870467 BECK/ARNLEY 26801 LUCAS 26801H LUCAS PRC5658 ROVER RTC5228 ROVER RTC5228N ROVER RTC6061N ROVER S2804 LUCAS SR0802X BOSCH I checked many sources with many different combinations of model year and P/N recommendations. This seems to be the best overview. From this is appears starters can be broadly substituted contrary to most sources of information but do your homework. |
|
09-21-2004, 08:38 AM | #4 | |
AF Newbie
|
Re: Replacing Starter on 1993 Range 3.9
I agree with the above the starter is not that difficult to do.
When you brake it down these things are just rusty ol nuts and bolts eh? Let us know how you fare... and checkout www.get-rhino.com we need the exposure. |
|
|
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
Thread Tools | |
|
|