Car dies out

blklink · 01-17-2010, 04:33 PM

Alright I have had help before in the past with other issues dealing with heat and over heating. But now I have another problem hopefully someone can help me. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V6 3.0 with 215,800 miles yea thats high but its drover daily everyday. But never had any problems out of it besides regular maintaining vehicles tune up. But the over heating which was my fault. And the heat itself, which SHOROD helped me figure that problem out THANKS TO YOU SHOROD. Well my issue is my car will turn over fine and start fine with no problems at all. Car idles fine with no problems. Sitting still you can rev it up and no hesitation it does. Well I can drive from here to the interstate which is 3 miles as soon as I get onto the on ramp and press the gas to speed up (so i dont get ran over) it stalls (dies) out on me a little bit its like the harder I press the gas the faster it does out. But I can pull to the shoulder of the road and turn the car off and let sit then start it back up and drive off its fine then in between that 3-5 marker it does the same thing all over again. At a steady speed its fine but when you are trying to speed up it dies (slows). Someone please help

danielsatur · 01-17-2010, 04:52 PM

What elements do you need for a good burning Fire?
Air, fuel, and ignition.

Troubleshoot Random misfiring-
A stickey throttle plate, Air filter, fuel filter, fuel pumps, fuel regulator, also a plugged Catalytic converter will choke a motor out.

blklink · 01-17-2010, 05:02 PM

I have good fuel pressure, air filter is good, fuel filter is good, fuel pump is good,ignition is good. Everything happens as it should until that 3-5 miles marker you hit the gas again and it dies down. I dont know what it could be I was leaning towards a mass air flow sensor. Be honest though I dont know much about a lincoln ls. But everything does as it should util 3-5 mile marker, I can cut the car off start it back and take off and it runs as it should until the 3-5 mile marker again. Its like the computer resets whatever is wrong with it when I cut it off.

blklink · 01-17-2010, 05:03 PM

Also my Cat con. are gutted so dont think they are stopped up.

danielsatur · 01-17-2010, 05:08 PM

Try cleaning the MAF, IACT, and throttle body!If cleaning the MAF/IACT dosn't work, I would consider new.What about the upstream H02 sensors for the Air/fuel mix?

blklink · 01-17-2010, 05:31 PM

Everything of that nature is fine and running smooth. That would cause it to idle funny wouldnt it? But I tried cleaning the MAF last night and still nothing the same thing is happening Im gonna see if the EGR needs cleaning also maybe that will make a difference

shorod · 01-17-2010, 05:44 PM

The EGR should only have an effect at idle speed, not when you are accelerating.

If you gradually lean in to the throttle do you notice anything abnormal such as a hesitation or stumble? How long do you have to leave the car sit before restarting? Have you checked for pending diagnostic codes? Do you have a scan tool with a datastream mode? It would be interesting to monitor the short term fuel trims and the engine coolant temperature sensor just prior to the stall.

-Rod

blklink · 01-17-2010, 06:51 PM

The EGR should only have an effect at idle speed, not when you are accelerating.

If you gradually lean in to the throttle do you notice anything abnormal such as a hesitation or stumble? How long do you have to leave the car sit before restarting? Have you checked for pending diagnostic codes? Do you have a scan tool with a datastream mode? It would be interesting to monitor the short term fuel trims and the engine coolant temperature sensor just prior to the stall.

Well if I gradually lean to the throttle it still kind of dies out a little but not as bad as it would if you give it more gas. I can turn the car off and start it back up and its fine for that 3-5 miles range. Havent checked for codes. The check engine light isnt on so no codes will show up on the scan tool. For some reason.

shorod · 01-17-2010, 10:47 PM

There could still be pending codes, even though the Check Engine Light is not on.

Sounds like you have a misfire or vacuum leak. I'm not sure why it would always take a few miles to show up, I'll have to ponder that a bit....

-Rod

blklink · 01-18-2010, 12:37 AM

I have no clue on it I have looked searched every part of the net no one can seem to find the answer. Wouldnt a misfire cause the car to stutter or sputter skip hop that type of thing? I would think. What about a vacuum leak that would maybe start as soon as the car is started up.? As I would think again but that assume why I dont have a mechanic job right... My guess is still floating around the mass air flow sensor. Thats just my guess. I will go by a friend of mine and see if he can put it on that scan tool to see if any codes come through. I know my cat converts will show up cause they are gutted. Other than that I dont know but I will check early in the morning as soon as he wakes up and puts it on test I will reply back with codes thanks Rod

shorod · 01-18-2010, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blklink

Well if I gradually lean to the throttle it still kind of dies out a little but not as bad as it would if you give it more gas.

This descriptions sounds a bit like a misfire/vacuum leak. It's difficult to interpret a verbal description of "dies out a little" as different from a misfire stumble.

The odd part is the constant reset since any of the sensors (MAF, O2, TPS, or ECT) since the PCM will evetually be in closed loop due to engine coolant temperature.

I suppose an electric motor could "reset" like what you describe. Typically fuel pumps will fail to supply enough pressure for start up, but will be fine once the vehicle is running. But my basis of symptoms are more from fuel systems with a return line. Your LS has a returnless fuel system so the power to the fuel pump is modulated to attempt to maintain fuel pressure.

I think you really need to have a scan tool in the datastream mode monitoring the sensors while the problem occurs to get you pointed in the right direction.

-Rod

blklink · 01-18-2010, 03:01 PM

Ok new condition. Today went to my buddy's house and put it on the scan computer well the scan picked up cat con. which I figured it would considering that they are gutted. Well I left the car running at the point and time then the car just acted like it wanted to cut off completely like it was loosing fuel pressure. So I go buy a fuel filter. Same thing. So now I went and bought a fuel pump. And in the process of about to change it if I can figure out how to get to it.

blklink · 01-18-2010, 03:38 PM

Well before I replace the fuel pump. I took the back seat out and turned the key on you can hear the fuel pump running with no problem at all. doesnt sound like it even dies out. You can start the car runs fine then at around 3500-4000 rpms the car stalls down and/or misfires sounds like it pops from the muffler. I was reading through other sites and same thing is happened to the same year lincoln ls v6. Said he took it to a mechanic and the mechanic knew exactly what it was he changed the jet pump and it was fine puuurrrs like a kitten he says. Wonder about that situation. As in all the scan picked up no codes but only the cats which I knew it was going to do that. (Gutted) Which they have been gutted before this ever happened. So now Im on the guessing level that its either air or fuel related.

blklink · 01-18-2010, 06:20 PM

Alright I just changed the fuel pump. And nothing but right before I changed it out, at idle the car skip and sputter. Well now that I changed the fuel pump. I got no different results now it will start up and run for a second or two then it will start sputtering and skipping and then it cuts off. You can hold the gas to the floor and it still does nothing it loses power faster. Now Im really stumped cause everything on the car is basically new and Im lost for words. What is my other options. I have checked all hoses and found no leaks. There is no vacuum leaks none that I can find. Can you help me figure this situation out as soon as possible. Cause thats my only transportation and I have no other ride back and forth to work.

shorod · 01-19-2010, 07:24 AM

In park or neutral the car is designed not to let you over-rev the engine. You're bouncing off that rev limiter at 3500 or so rpms, there's no "jet pump" causing that, it's completely normal and by design.

I hate to say it, but you're probably at a point where you need to visit another shop or the dealer. With all you've replaced you might be at the point where you've exceeded the diagnostic and repair costs a knowledgeable dealer would have charged, plus you'd likely have a running car by now. It's either that or find a scan tool with the datastream mode that you can have logging when the car acts up. You need to determine if fuel or spark is acting up, anything else is shotgunning and potentially wasted money. For the cost of the fuel pump you probably could have purchased such a scan tool.

Or in advance of that, the next thing you could confirm is that you have good compression on all 6 cylinders. But again, that wouldn't make sense to "reset" immediately after a stall.

-Rod

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