Car dies out

[jmnz1]

I need to know which cylinder is number 4 on a 04 Lincoln LS V6?

[danielsatur]

Tran
3 6
2 5
1 4
Fan

Check COP spark plug boot for oil, or a rust residue!
Either oil, or water can contaminate the COP ,the ignition signal will misfire.
Save $500, use CRC electronic cleaner to clean contaminated COP's.

[blklink]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Why would four H02 sensors be bought, if cat's are gutted?
How much $ is thrown @ this project, because KBB Trade-in value without cats is below $1500.

PROJECT? Its called maintenence and up keep and fixing. I'm not worried about what the value of KBB is because I don't plan on getting rid of it. Its my car its bought paid for I have the title. I have had this car for almost 10 years this was one of my first cars and I plan on keeping it I didn't start a thread to get mark downs on my car. And by the way how would you know that the KBB value on my car without cats is 1500 it doesn't have a specific detail in there that says without cats mark here. Like I said I didn't start this thread to get mark downs on my car, value on my car, or even how shitty my car is. I started this one to get HELP to pin point my problem to see if I could get my car fixed. And if you must know, I have spent a lot of money in this car. You figure new coils at 72 a piece. (430) new plugs at 6 a piece (36) new MAF sensor (148) new borla mufflers (800) with packs new exhaust manifold studs to connect the down pipe (150) including labor new fuel pump (212) new jet pump (188) new fuel filter (18) new battery (128) its pretty costy but its my car my money. I felt that it needed to be done to my car so I went ahead and done it anyway. But this is not my project. Not to mention I just bought a remote start for it and some new rims 180 for the remote start and 2200 for the new 22s with tires.

[blklink]

Alright bought a new battery helped some but not much... Use to when you start the car it would take 10-15 seconds and it would idle rough and just cut off now it will idle fine for as long as the car is running. 20 30 45 hours doesn't matter it idles fine perfect. But now when you get in the car and put it in drive the car will drive fine for 2 minutes at the most and the engine slowly loses power and it will get so weak that it just cuts off. But u can put it in drive and let the car roll it will move and roll out fine until you smash the gas then its back to the same ol thing can drive it back to the house put it in park and it will sit there and idle like there's nothing wrong in the world. I have done my tune up completely. Everything except for the 02 sensors. EGR valve. Little things. Everything that I have replaced for new is listed. Everything is new not remanufacted. I'm looking into buying new 02 sensors, but need help on which ones to buy all 4 or just the 2 up streams? Well since the catalytic converters are gutted I have new catalytic converters on the way that I bought off line magnaflow cats. Besides that if the cats are gutted would I change all 4, the 2 upstreams, or the 2 downstreams? Thanks again Rod for you help in the past.

[shorod]

If you're putting new converters on, you may as well replace all 4 O2 sensors. It won't hurt anything, and if anything will improve the fuel economy just enough that they'll pay for themselves over the next several years. I'm not real sure they will fix the lack of power.

I'm not clear what happens, maybe you left out a sentence. After two minutes of driving the car will lose power and eventually stall? Then you mention that you can put it in drive and it will roll out. Is it already in drive when it stalls after 2 minutes? Did you maybe leave out that you can restart it immediately after it stalls and it will be fine until you get aggressive with the accelerator? Without having a scan tool to watch the datastream parameters this one will be tricky to diagnose.

-Rod

[blklink]

Sorry using my phone. But what I was saying was the battery helped in some areas but not the main. You can start the car and let it idle forever and it will idle perfect. My rev limit is 3500 you can hold the gas to the floor and it will jump to the 3500 without hesitation. But as soon as you get in the car put it in drive and take off 2 minutes in the car will gradually lose its power. So low that it will shut off if you are holding the gas, let off the gas and it will coast at idle fine. Only problem I'm having now is seems like its not getting the gas that it needs to run fully into it. But you can cut the car off and on 2 or 3 times and its fine for that 2 minutes again. Then back to the same situation. I don't know what's wrong with it at this point cause I have changed just about everything possible to change within the ignition, fuel, and air. Not unless its a hidden air leak or a clogged air hose. Or bad jet pump or bad 02 sensors. But in this case you said that you doubt that its going to fix my lack of power problem. Something has got to give break loose or something. The car has never been mistreated. Changed oil on a regular. Have changed everything recently. Lost

[shorod]

Sadly I'm lost too. Is it like a switch is thrown approximately 2 minutes into the drive, or might there be a gradual power reduction that gets really bad after about 2 minutes? Based on the expense of parts, it might be money well spent to get a nice (~$300) scan tool with a datastream mode so you can see what the various sensors are reporting when this car runs well versus when it's acting up.

-Rod

[danielsatur]

Todays Auto electronics have both analog + digital signals, they need tobe right for metering Air, fuel, and H20 feedback ,so the ECU can control this fossil burner.

What Elements to you need for a good burning Fire?
Air, fuel, ignition, and exhaust.

Test's are very important during the troubleshooting practice, because one bad test done, or skipped can derail any Auto Dr.
Don't assume all new parts are good.

Tests:
Compression
Air - Unmetered Air (smoke) , MAF/ACT sensor, air filter (min $)
Fuel - fuel pressure, Tps (min $)
Igniion - Spark, Cop test (min $)
Exhaust - back pressure test (free)
Battery + Alternator Load test. (free)


If all test's passed, have your ECU tested, it might not beable to control your powertrain, and latch onto any codes,
www.ECUdoctors.com $50
I would consider buying a spare from a Salvage yard, the ECU Dr. might hold yours for ransom + charge $900

Also see www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=893556

[blklink]

Thanks Rod for all your help I have not found the problem and I dont wish to look into it anymore. I broke down and sent it to the shop. UGH.... I dont even wanna know what its going to cost when I get back around to getting it. Dollar signs is all I'm going to be counting when I go to sleep maybe not hopefully it wont be that much. But then again it could be as high as a new car. Sadly. But thanks for all the advice that you giving me in the past and I will keep you updated on what I will find out from the shop. I took it to a Jaguar dealer. They said they will look into the problem look deeper and fix it. Hopefully it will be done soon. Missing my car alot. I will keep an update on the situation. Thanks again

[shorod]

Good luck, and please do update this thread with what the shop finds.

-Rod

[blklink]

HELLO TO ALL THAT HAS BEEN FOLLOWING UP ON THIS THREAD. I HAVE GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS.
Bad news it cost a small fortune but no worries its paid for...
Good news it is running to standards now everything is working perfectly.
Alright down to the news about what was going on. Took it to the shop. Left it. They analyzed the situation at ACC (on the ignition) nothing. But then (ROD) they drove the car down the road with the DATASTREAM on it come back as fuel pump and filter. At running speeds (standards) it was running close to 40 lbs of fuel then it dropped to 13 lbs. Even though I had bought a brand new fuel pump and fuel filter I was stumbled my self. Well I changed the fuel pump on the passenger side which the LS has 2 fuel pumps which I knew that. The one on the driver side worked but not up to par. As it would be called the Jet pump. Well I still have the Jet pump that was originally in it. And man ol man was it nasty nasty. The built in filter on it was so worn out it had eat the filter almost completely gone the pump was working but would get stopped up. It had some gunky black type of deal inside the pump. So that was the whole problem. The jet pump. Thanks for everybody's help and support.
Mr. Rod it looks like it was the Jet pump after all remember in the past post I was asking about Jet pump before? No worries its fixed and paid for. Thanks Rod

[shorod]

Wow, that is interesting! Thank you for the follow-up post, no doubt this will help someone out in the future.

-Rod