Sunbird quit running stumper

[hrench]

My daughter's 92 3.1 Sunbird has quit and I guess I need some help figuring this one out. She's been driving around with a code 32, which is an EGR fault, but I just ignored it. Now the car's left her flat. I've scanned the codes and get 32, 33 and 43. So now I got MAP sensor and spark ESC circuit.

So what it does is cranks at normal speed and fires occasionally, like it's going to catch, but doesn't. I've been able to walk up cold and it will fire and run for five seconds.

So I sprayed starting fluid into the open air filter cavity and it ran, but really badly. Not really running. So check the fuel pressure. Popped the cap on the fuel injection rail and pushed the schrader valve and sure-enough, a little four-inch tall fountain. And oh-yeah--I can hear the fuel pump run on every key-turn. I think four inch seems ike okay pressure...

Went to O'rielly's and quizzed the teenagers there, they said check the signal to the injectors, rented me some blinking lights. Now's where the funny stuff starts. I have to pull the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors, so it's still sort-of in-place, but hovering six inches over the spot where it bolts and I'm plugging in the fuel injector light. Get my daughter to crank it and it starts!?!?.. Throttles up and down from the driver's seat. Runs really funny--sounds like timing retarded. But definitely runs. I'm not sure how the throttle was even working not bolted and all. Probably just the injectors controlling the speed? And yes, injector light stays lit, injectors are getting signal. Wires to two fuel injectors badly cracked, so I cleaned them and made new insulation with most of a roll of electrical tape. Bolted the manifold back down. Again it won't run. Unbolted, lifted--runs again. Bolted the manifold back down.

While scratching my head, I noticed goo on the EGR valve, like melty-plastic. It has been overheated. Could a bad EGR prevent running? Pulled the EGR about two inches off the manifold, still connected by bolts, but pressure cavity compromised and guess what--engine runs again. Retarded and not smooth, but definitely runs, just like before.

I'm thinking crankshaft position sensor could be causing retard, MAP sensor could be also retarding more?, maybe the knock sensor too? Maybe the EGR maybe the fuel pressure regulator, maybe any darn thing. Maybe the ECM?

I'm game to play shot-gun mechanic and start replacing things, but right now I don't even have a good guess where to start.

[hrench]

Well, not one guess yet, but I bought a fuel pressure tester and see about 45 psi. Is that enough? Removed the EGR completely--open hole in the manifold now-- and it starts and runs up to 5000 rpm.

Also note, no coolant in the oil--I've followed some threads about leaky manifolds and I don't think that's it.

[hrench]

Well, I'm answering my own post, because it looks like noone else has any idea what this problem is.

I priced an EGR valve at O'reillys and they said $199. Went to a salvage yard this morning and got one for $20.

Put it on and yes, the car runs again.

The check engine light is still on and I'm still getting codes 32, 33 and 43, but my daughter is satisfied that it's running. She said that's how it was running before...

I still don't know what to fix, but I think I'm going to let her drive it.

[lucas_wojo]

I am sorry you had no advce on your issue but I am glad you have posted and kept up with it. I have a 91 and it runs badly at times and then does not start at some times. I am going to look into the egr in the morning. Thanks and good job with yours..