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Old 05-25-2003, 12:38 PM   #106
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I'm a flat-sixer myself, but I can understand where you're coming from.

And form can come with function for sure, but form should always follow function.
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Old 05-28-2003, 02:11 PM   #107
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On a total unrelated note, I finally received a response back from the tech staff at Power Slot reguarding installing slotted rotors with the slots facing the opposite direction as normally would be.

Quote:
Thank You for contacting "POWER SLOT " .

We recommend using our installation procedure. The reason on some applications you might see the rotors reversed are for racing set ups, and not for street use. Buy reversing them you can get more bite but we once again, we do not recommend this for street use.

Thank You
Tech dept.
I'm really wondering now now much of a different I'd notice if I do this. Hey, at least maybe my wheels wouldn't get as dirty as they do from brake dust.
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Old 06-07-2003, 12:07 PM   #108
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What the Hell does more bite mean?
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Old 06-07-2003, 01:47 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally posted by SkylineUSA
What the Hell does more bite mean?
Grabs better and puts you into the windshield? I dunno...
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Old 06-10-2003, 07:03 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally posted by SkylineUSA
What the Hell does more bite mean?
Better stopping. But It'd probably rip the shit out of pads.
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Old 07-10-2003, 02:53 PM   #111
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Good thread. I've posted that altimas.net thread (and the archived copy from Corner Carvers) on many different boards. Too many people think that crossdrilled rotors are for anything but looks these days. And they get the concepts of "dissipate heat" and "disperse heat" mixed up.

And it seemed a few people posting to this thread had a hard time figuring out facts from that thread...
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Old 07-25-2003, 03:39 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally posted by 911GT2
That's the thing: I don't believe they're only for looks.

Porsche or Ferrari wouldn't use them for looks. Look at their history: they've never done something solely for looks.

And while most cross drilled rotors do tend to crack easily, most don't so long as they're drilled properly (i.e. chamfered). Straight drills cause pressure points which crack easily, chamfered spreads the load.

What I'm basically trying to get across is that they're better over a period of hard braking, but they definitely won't decrease your braking distance.
Next time you slide to wide thru a corner, will the first thought in your head be "if I only had that bose radio from the 911, and the memory seats, I would ripped that corner like I was on rails"? That would go with your theory that everything on a porsche is for the track.
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Old 08-23-2003, 06:23 PM   #113
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Re: Cross drilled rotors, better or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 911GT2
OK, not having read this theread here's my opinion:

1)cross-drilled helps dissipate heat better, it's proven
2)cross-drilled cracks easier, it's proven
3)if cross drilled correctly (i.e. chafered holes) they will hold up almost as well as solid rotors
4)slotted is ultimately just a compromise
=========
Great post from a logical mind.
I'll overstate the obvious.

Drilling was/is for cooling. Chamfering the hole entrance helps venting and lightens the rotor at the penalty of further reducing contact surface for braking. Casting the holes allows for simultaneous results of chamfering and surface-stress relief by having the surface of the holes the same surface as the rotor interior. Also, chamfering reduces pad consumption slightly, but here at a penalty of less pad cleaning. Chamfering also has the brake dust build more at the trailing edge of the hole and can be seen to polish it's own bird-eye chamfer.

With chamfered, if one wants good pad cleaning, add slots. If the holes are right-angle to the brake surface, slots are not needed, and the hole pattern overlaps so the entire pad is scrubbed, the rotor and pad remain machined evenly and with cleaner pad contact.

Anyone regularly cracking new rotors likely has the budget to design their own new models of performance brakes.

Front 930 float vented cast-hole new replacement rotor costs in the wide range of US$85 to $240 each rotor, 304x32mm, and 309x28mm. New originals might sell for $400 each.

Those with inventory can offer closer to US$150 each, comparable to prices of late-model streetable VWAudi performance parts.
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Old 08-23-2003, 10:31 PM   #114
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great info but you dug out and old ass thread good to see you know your stuff but keep out of the old threads plz.
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Old 12-04-2003, 02:52 AM   #115
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Ask a moderator

I'll post where the phuk I want as long as permitted, even if it's on your forehead with a blue ballpoint.
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Old 06-15-2004, 02:30 AM   #116
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Re: Cross drilled rotors, better or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 911GT2
And I proved myself, don't disprove it by saying "that's way off". Do it out for yourself on a piece of paper.
Sure it increases surface area, but will it ever have contact with the brake pads?
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:21 AM   #117
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Re: Ask a moderator

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhillyer
I'll post where the phuk I want as long as permitted, even if it's on your forehead with a blue ballpoint.

You added some informative information, to a very informative thread that has been running for a long time.
Your most welcome to post in it.

We do have a general policy of not dredging up old threads, but this an exception. Starting a new thread would have simply put lots of useful info in differnt places, and defied the purpose of a forum based around threads and posts.

And you might find a Nailgun more effective than a ball point
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Old 07-21-2004, 10:44 PM   #118
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Re: Cross drilled rotors, better or not?

cross drilled rotors suck ass, b/c as soon as it snows out, the snow gets in the holes, freezes up, and warps the shit out of your rotors.
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:52 PM   #119
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Re: Cross drilled rotors, better or not?

I always sorta thought it dpened on the car and the purpose

Ex. a large mucle car is going to be going "persea" in a stright line at a high speed from whitch hes going to need to return from whitch means hes going to want a large solid rotor and good pads

Ex. perhapse a Skyline (whitch is deisgn'd for this purpose, although do make a viscious drag car) is going to be going threw a circuit whitch in turn calls for a continueious systematic need to slow for a coner whitch means your going to want the coolest possible rotor because your re applying the brakes whitch is reestablishing friction with the rotor so the less heat is the less glazing of the pad whitch means a stronger re-establishment of friction to the rotor, and if your brake is cooler not as much of the brake is going to be occupied by dissipated heat so that more rotor is free to take in heat so in conclusion belive cross drill'd/ sloted rotor's for road race or auto-x.

and the owner of my local speed shop in turn does auto-x and road race his 380hp civic hatch and he has never done nothing much make car preforme better to or above my expectations, and i also would trust him with My life runs a 3,000$ bremo break setup that runs cross drilled rotors, whitch is what he recommed for my Integra

i am unfortiantly am a rip off mechanics dream consumer, i buy excatly what he tells me to, regardless of price (always good and low if any install charge) and none of his work has ever disappointed me. So he could have filled me with complete bullshit but they are what he has on his car and for that matter since his prices and work are good and please me............ i guess one could say hes a good mechanic

Ps i stop'd reading the post at page 3 sorry if i missed something
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:14 AM   #120
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Re: Cross drilled rotors, better or not?

you didn't miss much.

I must ask how would cross drilled AND slotted rotors fair?

Also with nascar cars they don't really need to brake and F1 cars don't need rotors to get heat away because the whole car moves air to parts that need it eg. the rotors.
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