95 Windstar hestates wont go over 60 mph - Page 2

ourbudd · 11-25-2007, 01:29 PM

I have a 98 with a 3.8, I have in the past has numerous times where it wouldn't make speed, once we were on a trip and it kept slowing down to the point that I couldn't get 40 mph. It cleared after checking at a service place but came back later. In the long run I tested the fuel pressures and they seemed fine then I put the gauge so I could see it on the road when I was having the problemand the pressure was dropping as it was stalling down. I puilled the fuel pump and replaced and it was fine. It happened again later and I took a soft hammer to the bottom of the tank where the pump sits and it cleared for a while. I did this because when I pulled the pump the screens on it were coated with debris. I have also had to pull it one more time and clean it and change it one more time. The tank is clean and I don't know what was causing it. I also changed the filter with the last pump. Good Luck

wiswind · 11-25-2007, 05:29 PM

Another member had a very similar experience.
I would recommend changing the pump AND the sock filter (you can get a pump with or without the filter).
Due to the work involved dropping the fuel tank, it would be best to replace both on this first time.
Please disconnect the battery before dropping the tank......and still be very carefull with metal tools as metal on metal can make a spark.
It only takes a tiny spark in the gasoline fumes to ruin your year.

briantman · 11-25-2007, 05:59 PM

The van has 178k on it. It was like this when I bought it. The van had been impounded by a police dept. and was sold at an auction. I bought it off of E-Bay for someone at our church. It was supposed to be a gift for them from the church I was elected to repair it. I removed the spark plugs tonight to check compression just to make sure I wasn't wrong about the previous diagnosis. I was right the compression on all three front cylinders was over 100 lbs. Does anyone know how to check the timing before I pull the cover? It would be nice to know if I am looking in the right direction. I could not find a place for a timing mark. Thanks for all the help.

briantman · 11-25-2007, 06:07 PM

I know I just posted a reply but I was not smart enough to see there was a second page on this thread. I hear you all about the fuel pump and I will try and replace it before I pull the timing cover. I have felt from the begining that it seemed like a fuel pressure issue, it always seemed ok. Is it possible that the pressure is there but the flow is not? Might be a dumb question but I am not sure if that is possible. I have been in the automotive field for many years but I have not had much experience with diagnosing a Ford. Thanks again for all of your help.

ourbudd · 11-25-2007, 07:12 PM

Yes it is possible to have the pressure but when the engine uses more fuel at higher speeds it won't be able to get both the flow and pressure to be able to get it to operate properly. Good Luck

LeSabre97mint · 11-25-2007, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by briantman

The van has 178k on it. It was like this when I bought it. The van had been impounded by a police dept. and was sold at an auction. I bought it off of E-Bay for someone at our church. It was supposed to be a gift for them from the church I was elected to repair it. I removed the spark plugs tonight to check compression just to make sure I wasn't wrong about the previous diagnosis. I was right the compression on all three front cylinders was over 100 lbs. Does anyone know how to check the timing before I pull the cover? It would be nice to know if I am looking in the right direction. I could not find a place for a timing mark. Thanks for all the help.

Brian

Being that the compression is up I doubt that the timing is off. You could check for slackness in the timing chain by removing the oil fill cap on the valve cover and watch the movement of a rockerarm while having someone turn the crankshaft back and forthe a bit. The rockerarm should respond with very little movement of the crankshaft. I chose to watch the rockerarm because there isn't a distributior to watch.

Regards

Dan

tripletdaddy · 11-27-2007, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ourbudd

I have a 98 with a 3.8, I have in the past has numerous times where it wouldn't make speed, once we were on a trip and it kept slowing down to the point that I couldn't get 40 mph. It cleared after checking at a service place but came back later. In the long run I tested the fuel pressures and they seemed fine then I put the gauge so I could see it on the road when I was having the problemand the pressure was dropping as it was stalling down. I puilled the fuel pump and replaced and it was fine. It happened again later and I took a soft hammer to the bottom of the tank where the pump sits and it cleared for a while. I did this because when I pulled the pump the screens on it were coated with debris. I have also had to pull it one more time and clean it and change it one more time. The tank is clean and I don't know what was causing it. I also changed the filter with the last pump. Good Luck

Ourbudd,
Did you get your problem resolved? Did you check your fuel pressure regulator to see if it works properly? It sounds like you ruled out the other things. I have an earlier post in this thread describing how to check it and the pump operation and pressures. Good luck

briantman · 11-27-2007, 07:09 PM

Hello,
Its me again. I have now replaced the fuel pump, tank, pressure regulator, o2 sensors, and tuned it up. Still have the same issues. I have noticed one additional symptom, the front exhaust manifold gets hot enough to glow when running for a few min. I have never looked for this before so I do not know if this has happened before. I'm pretty sure that it has been happening all along I just have not noticed. It is still running the same as before. Is it possible for something to go wrong with mechanical part of the cam sensor? I replaced the top of it before. Any other new ideas are welcome. Thanks again for all of your help.
Briantman

LeSabre97mint · 11-27-2007, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by briantman

Hello,
Its me again. I have now replaced the fuel pump, tank, pressure regulator, o2 sensors, and tuned it up. Still have the same issues. I have noticed one additional symptom, the front exhaust manifold gets hot enough to glow when running for a few min. I have never looked for this before so I do not know if this has happened before. I'm pretty sure that it has been happening all along I just have not noticed. It is still running the same as before. Is it possible for something to go wrong with mechanical part of the cam sensor? I replaced the top of it before. Any other new ideas are welcome. Thanks again for all of your help.
Briantman

Brian

I had a 81 Dodge Colt that I replaced the timing belt and got it one cog off. The timing was late and the exhaust manifold got hot as you discribed and then engine had very little power. Something caused your timing to get late. I would put it on an OBDII scanner and check the timing.

Regards

Dan

tripletdaddy · 11-28-2007, 12:18 AM

Is it just the e manifold that gets red hot? Nothing downstream on the pipes etc. An obstruction might cause that, but I don't know of anything that would cause that only at the manifold. The cat converters will plug vor various reasons, but I would expect everything to get red from the converter to the engine. Does it sound plugged, maybe like a plugged vacuum cleaner? Good luck

briantman · 12-03-2007, 08:34 PM

Hello again to all. I had a friend come over tonight and check the timing with an OTC scan tool. seems to be ok. We checked sensors, and other things and found nothing out of the ordinary. I still have not been able to trace this problem. I would welcome any other suggestions. Thanks to all.
Briantman

wiswind · 12-04-2007, 07:44 PM

There is no measurement or monitoring of the fuel pressure or fuel flow on the windstar......so the PCM does not see these values.....so computer equipment connected to the OBDII port will not see these values, nor will there be any codes set indicating a problem with these values.
Monitoring the fuel pressure at the fuel rail while driving the vehcile would be a good idea.

If that does not work, I would have a good shop check the vehicle out.....specifically take it for a road test with their computer equipment connected up to monitor what is going on under the actual driving conditions that the problem is happening at.

I am not familiar with how to troubleshoot clogged catalytic converters, but if they are just plain not working.....you will get a code(s) for that as each converter has a oxygen sensor that monitors catylist efficiency.
Again, a good shop would be able to check that out.

CnlK · 12-04-2007, 09:30 PM

You may be able to check for plugged exhaust system with a vaccuum gauge. If vaccuum slowly drops at idle, exhaust system may be plugged.
This may also explain brake system issue. Had an 86 LTD that due to
ignition problems allowed unburned fuel into exhaust system and had cat converter glowing cherry red. Car had 3 converters, 2 on y-pipe and
one downstream. Several hundred miles after repairing ignition problem
car would not go over 30mph. The guts from the converter that was glowing
ended up plugging the downstream converter. You may also be able to drop
exh pipe after Y-pipe to troubleshoot. Just another thought. Has anyone
seen the trigger wheel on crankshaft pulley rotate out of proper position? If
so computer and scan tool may think ignition timing is correct when in reality
it wouldn't be (have seen this on an outboard engine).

briantman · 12-08-2007, 08:55 PM

Hello again, I am trying to find out exactly how to set the cam sensor and housing. I have purchased the toll required and as far as I can tell I think it is not set right. According to the book you set #one cylinder on top dead center, I believe it is on the compression stroke because with the oil cap removed you can see the exhaust valve rocker compressed on #4 cylinder. The oll locks the center part of the housing n place. They tell you to set the crank shaft at 26 degrees after TDC there is no mark on the dampner for that setting. Am I to assume the notch is the placed to set it at. The book is not clear and I only have the paper that came with the tool to figure this out. Anyone who knows how to set this correctly please let me know. I am also not sure if I set the TDC correctly. Anyone who can help I appreciate all of you. Thanks again. Briantman.

briantman · 12-09-2007, 06:52 PM

Hello again for the last time on this issue. To all of you who helped me and gave me suggestions, thank you. I got it fixed tonight. My last post about the timing was the direction I needed toi go. The cam sensor had apperently ben removed at some point in time because it was 180 degrees out. I rest the sensor but it still didn't run right. I removed the crank pulley and vibration dampner due to my previous discovery of the bolt being loose and found that the key on the crank had beaten a 1/2 / inch groove in the dampner. The crank was out of time and therefore when I set the cam sensor it was out (about 15 degrees). I replaced the dampner and reset the cam sensor (with the tool) and reassembled it. Now it will spin the tires off of it. I drove it tonight and it runs great. I have not tried highway speed but I am sure it will be ok. Again thank you to all who helped me with this. Have a great day!!
Briantman

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