89 Fuel Pump/Fuel Pump Relay Problem (no crank)

[matrx10503]

I need to know which color wires are for the Fuel Pump Relay

I really dnt want to have to drop this tank!! and super frustrated...hope its just relay....or if I know its not the relay, I know to drop the tank
not knowing what needs to be fixed is really irritating me

[CCTGENE]

The electrical diagram, in my Haynes manual, reflects the following wiring color codes for the fuel pump relay on 1990 and earlier 2.3 GA:

1. BLK/WHT wire provides the path to ground when a signal is sent from the computer, via DK GRN/WHT, to engage the relay.

2. When the relay is engaged the ground is provided via a BLK wire that goes to the fuel pump, out of the unit a GRY wire goes back to the fuel pump relay and the circuit is completed via a PNK/BLK wire that goes to the 20A in the fuse block.

For what its worth!

[J-Ri]

Just curious... why do you need the wire colors for the relay? I've diagnosed dozens (quite possibly hundreds) of these, and honestly, I don't think I've ever needed the colors... Just remove the relay and connect a jumper wire between the 30/87 connectors, the fuel pump should come on. If it does, there's a problem in the control circuit. If not, the problem is in the wire from the relay to the pump or the pump itself. If the pump does not turn on when jumping the relay, disconnect the 4-pin connector near the tank and check for power and ground there. If you have it, the pump is bad. Unfortunately, the pumps are very common on these, although the older ones are usually quite a bit better than the newer ones.

[xeroinfinity]

purchasing a new relay is cheap and easy. You can check for power/signal thier and at the fuse box. Chances are if its the original pump its done.

[matrx10503]

Im so fed up...I thought about setting the car on fire.......
Apparently this must be over my head

I can't figure out the things I need
I have no idea if the pump is even getting power

4-pin (yellow) connector near tank has the Wire colors: (hard to tell.....but
Dark Grey
Black w/ white stripe
Light Grey
Purple

I use my test light (inside where the connector goes into)
and one hole gets power constantly (purple wire insert)..........even though I have ALL the relays UNPLUGGED and I took the F/P Inj. fuse out my fuse box

Excuse my ignorance but......with all the relays not even plugged in and fuse out the fuse box............I STILLL will get power???

There is no other 4-pin connectors near the tank.......so that gotta be the damn
connector

[73stingray]

Maybe a stupid question, but why do you think it's the fuel pump? Your subject says no crank, but no fuel wouldn't stop the engine from cranking.

[matrx10503]

73stingray

it turns over....but doesn't fire.......(seems like fuel supply problem...not enough pressure, fuel pump)
I've had it running before..therefore I know it runs, drives, etc. etc.
Way back when I first starting fixing the car up.....I had to turn the car switch on and off, on off, on off (ACC position).....and the fuel pump would finally prime and of coarse, engine would crank
.....fuel pump most likely gradually going/went out, lost pressure

After research countless situations like mines.....The top 3 are: 1. bad fuel pump or 2. ignition switch bad/need replaced 3. bad relay

[73stingray]

ok, I was just confused by the thread title. The fuel pump is noisy enough, so if you're not hearing it with the key in run for the first few seconds (engine off) you're probably on the right track. I'm not sure if they're the same at all, but I show the same 4 wires on my 99 wiring diagram at the fuel tank, only i have a black instead of a dark grey. The purple and black/white are for the sender and the black and grey are for the pump. try your test light on the light grey and dark grey wires with the fuses and relays in and see if that comes on when you think the pump should be running. As xero said, it's easy enough to check fuses and relays to make sure they're good too.

[grfnkl]

if you had to primer the car that many times to start it PRIOR to the "no crank" that you have now.. I'd say your pump went south!!! Normally the fuel pump gives you a little bit of a warning before they go like several attempts to start, no guts or missing while driving. The fuel pumps on these year G/a are rather noisey when they turn on so if you werent hearing it for awhile it may have been another clue to it going bad.

Also if you unplug the fuse and the relays you more or less "broke" the circuit therefore no power to the fuel pump. It's a great antitheft device for going away on vacation just pull the fuel pump fuse.

[matrx10503]

it may be black....like I said from what I could see, it looked black one day and dark grey the other.....*sigh*
But I dnt know what is problem......I have relays in and fuse......and no power on black(dark grey) and light grey.....

And I guess im going to have to jump the relays one by one.....because I jumped the one that clicks, but didn't work
This was the exact reason why I wanted the wire colors, to figure out which one is responsible for the fuel pump, therefore I would know which one to jump
but w/e......
I use my test light on the relays....and 3 of them light up...and 1 doesn't....weird

Ill jump one by one relays tomorrow......and ill post results

BTW Thanks to everyone that has responded so far...I greatly appreciated

[CCTGENE]

Just a thought - I believe you should be able to start your car even if the fuel pump relay was bad. There is a fuel pump oil pressure switch, that is tied into the fuel pump circuit, once you cranked your engine long enough to billed up the oil pressure the pressure switch would close providing the electrical continuity for the fuel pump. My guess therefore is that your pump is bad.

However, if you haven't already done so, I would suggest you replace the fuel pump relay anyway before you pull the pump. It's worth the 10 dollars or so just to eliminate the possibility.

The following site might be helpful for understanding the functionally of the oil pressure fuel pump switch:

http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt09.asp

For what it's worth!

[xeroinfinity]

Yeah Id agree the pump is most likly going out. Replacing the relay is also a wise idea before dropin the tank.

Though You said you didnt have power with the fuse & relays in?
That would make me think your wire harness to the pump is bad. Which is typical with GAs and can cause intermitant go-nogo.

edit>>

Also the wire that was hot even though relays/fuse was pulled it the fuel level sending wire(beleive purple). So it'll always have a small voltage, as your gauge works with the car off.

[matrx10503]

Ok I guess I have good news that is bad.....oxymoronic

1. the wires are actually the same from the relay to the fuel pump
(black black/w purple and light grey)
2. my relay is bad......I jumped the relay with the black/w and light grey wire and back at the fuel tank the 4 pin connector....the light grey wire (power) lights up full bright......but the purple wire lights up very dim
3. When I use the test light on the relay with purple and black wire.....it has no power :-?

Also.....the grey (power) ONLY lights up if I jump the relay......
One of my relays clicks....I took that relay and put it on the fuel pump relay...and still no power to the tank
Only get power if I jump it
Anyone know whats wrong with that??


But I guess that not important.....if the grey wire (power) is working with the test light, the fuel pump should start running
correct?
Because purple and black/white and only sender
So that means....my fuel pump went out
I'm not happy that I have to buy a new one......but I hate not knowing the problem....as long as I know what the problem is, im fine

[xeroinfinity]

Like Id mentioned previously, replace the relay first.

The dim light on the purple wire is because the fuel gauge dont use 12 volts, only around 3-4vlts.

If its the stock pump, youre luck its lasted this long IMO.

[matrx10503]

yeah im will replace the relay

but by jumping, pump should come on......and didn't
so i'll go get new fuel pump asap
and get on with other repairs/issues lol