PCM/ EPROM - All HIGH readings

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Man, i am making mistakes all over the place. I pulled the RTV off the ICM cable. took the lighter and shrunk it up. Went to Kragen and bought new RED colored 3/8" wire conduit to shield the yellow/purple wires. The other one in the middle looked like a dog got part of it.

I found another route under the V bar that braces the bottom of the motor, so i didn't have to cut the 24X sensor wires at all. What a relief! Torqued to spec.

That picture in #42? I was wrong, that is the Trans speed sensor....replaced that with new and torqued to spec. Keep mixing that up with the 3x...BTW: both the trans speed sensor AND the 3x CKP have the SAME colored wires: Yellow and purple....confucious say, "wtf?!"

I didn't really see the 3X CKP until i looked far into the wheel well using the powersteering cables as guidelines (was under the car and referenced that with the location of 3x). That sucker is way in and the wheel well is NOT the way to go. Next i put the tire back on and lowered the car, then removed the front dogbones and rotated the motor forward. i removed the power steering/smog pump bracket altogether to let me do a reach around and get my jollies. After a 1/2 hour of fiddling about, i found the actual 3X CKP with my fingers...felt the long post that the sensor locates on. ....yay! So, i will have to do this one by feel, but it doesn't seem too hard..I'll have to find a way to spray lube..since the tires are on the ground. don't want to jack the car w/ the motor in neutral.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Man, that 3X sensor is a PAIN. I'm spinning and pulling and spinning and pulling. So at least i got the bolt loose...there is the added difficulty of trying to loosen things with all that crap that bolts onto the exhaust in the way...plus i'm sure i thought i heard a little rattle...so something is probably broken. I just hope i get it all out before breaks off.

I'll probably be going back out and trying again...

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Finally got the old sensor out. It was all intact. Totally blind fitting..took me awhile just to put the bolt back in for the new sensor. Installed sensor with connector attached, so i wouldn't have to fiddle with that. Now the slow process begins with a 10mm and a flat handle non-ratcheting thing (only thing that will fit w/ the tight clearance will insert pic of it later). The socket is slightly longer than a regular 10mm socket. If i didn't have that smog crap in the way, it would probably be a quick affair, but slowly inching the bolt into the block.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Ok, i tried hand threading the OEM center bolt into the crank. doesn't want to hand thread in there. I used a NAPA harmonic balancer puller #775-3901. You don't think the pointy tip of the center bolt may have made the center threads on the crank sloppy do you? I bought a longer bolt with a set screw and collar to use as an installer, both pitches are 1.5mm...they don't want to hand thread on there easily.

Suggestions?

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Doing a little "search", I find that i need a harmonic balancer installation tool.

I'll see if autozone rents one out. If not, $33 bucks is worth the price of NOT stripping the center crank threads!!

[maxwedge]

I have to tell, you this is one of longest ongoing threads depicting" blow by blow action", congrats on doing this and stiil having time to actually work on your project!

[xeroinfinity]

Yeah Max I was thinking the same thing, last thursday.

Just goes to show you how electrical gremlins can be difficult to track down.

I sure as hell dont get them wet or feed them after midnight.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

I rented a harmonic balancer installer from Autozone. I know from checking the "search" area of the forum and personal experience, that the 3X sensor can have a short in the middle of the connection wire.

What is the frequency of problems w/ the Vehicle Speed Sensor or Trans speed sensor wiring? This is the other set of purple/yellow wires.

I'm kinda kicking myself, because i have already put on the alternator bracket, alternator and smog pump.

do you think I'll be alright not checking the wiring that connects to the VSS or trans speed sensor? I guess i am asking this question. Is there a high possibility for wire failure on the VSS or i can forget about it for now?

I really don't want to have to remove the alternator bracket again. I will do so, if i have to access the VSS wiring.

what do you think?

[xeroinfinity]

The trans sensor isnt going to have any effect of whether the car starts.
I wouldnt mess with it unless the wires area looks like its been disturbed/damaged.

Ok the VSS is on the transmission not the engine.
thiers the knock sensor, cam sensor, and O2. See this diagram...

I'm ready for you to fire it up !

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Thanks guys. It's been raining cats and dogs, I bought a new ICM (just because the old one is 14 year old plastic and i just don't trust it). I hope i get a little bit of a dry spell, so i can work on the car w/o getting plastered. At least the car has been pushed in the driveway and i'm not working in the sloped street anymore. I'll keep you posted on what's going on.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

I pulled the old ignition module and I am replacing with a new one. I checked the primary/secondary readings on the coils and they are good.

Here's the hardest part. The module is almost upside down and only has two very short locator pins. I located the module in it's pins, but as soon as i let go of it, it falls out of place.

What is the trick to getting that thing to stay in place while i try to fit the coils back on and screw them in????

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

I got help with the ICM w/ my girlfriend holding the unit while I screwed in the the far right 2/5 coil. So, at least I don't have to worry about positioning. I'll put the other coils in after the balancer is installed correctly. What was odd was that we got it the first try...thank god for that. Especially in the short snow storm we did it in. 1/2 hour to do that and then indoors to get warm!!

I buggered the first few threads while using the harmonic balancer remover, so i went to ACE hardware and bought a 12 X 1.5mm tap. Since clearance was minimal, I improvised with a long 1/4" extension and a 1/4" socket that fit the end of the square tap and used a 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter with larger 3/8" ratchet and slowly tapped my way through. I was able to clean up the threads no problem. Next i installed the puller...the round "donut" piece that makes contact with balancer had me nervous (as one of the bearings popped out of it) and i found a round indented motorcycle steering head washer that fit inside the small area of the balancer pretty good and put the nut on that and started tightening that down. I'm about 1/2 way through, working in the rain and cold had me stop when my clothes were fully soaked. I don't have a LARGE box end / open end (i think the installer nut is about 1-1/16") wrench that fits right, so i used a large crescent wrench ...stopping every few turns to cinch the crescent. Slow going, like most of the stuff i've been working on. Kinda makes you miss the old cars with engine bays you could crawl into, no?

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

A word of advice when "renting" out tools. Inspect them before you take them out. The donut and the adapter had signs of abuse and failed when i tried to install the balancer. Autozone was cool and lent me a new kit that hasn't been used. The old kit spit out a few bearings in the donut that presses against the balancer and the tip that screws into the crank broke off. Seems someone before me tried to use a pair of pliers on it. I also pointed out another adapter in the kit that had a hairline crack. The donut, i found out by comparison w/ new kit, was swollen from abuse.

So, i'll try again tommorrow. Most likely in the rain and hopefully i'll get it fully pressed on.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Got the balancer and ICM done. The other wiring conduits look ok with no eaten away look to them.
Anyone know what the torque setting (ft-lbs) is for the tensioner Pulley bolt? Also what is the ft-lbs for the alternator/smog mount piece? (long aluminum piece that the smog pump and alternator bolt too) It has 3 bolts. One in the center and two side ones.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Autozone part #305203 (DAYCO belt tensioner) does NOT work with a CA smog cutlass supreme. I called Schuck's and they sell a GOODYEAR belt tensioner #49205 that uses the stock bolt AND is recessed, so the bolt head is not in the path of the smog pump belt.

So if you have a california Cutlass Supreme "S" w/ smog, don't buy the autozone part. The Schuck's /Kragen's part (goodyear tensioner) is the one to get.

Here's a picture of the WRONG tensioner installed: