Car didn't start after sitting with a/c and radio on

[soobiedoobie]

The thing is Subaru lists no recommendations. They have the OEM battery which I think is a 25. The manual says nothing about compatible batteries or max size/height for the battery bay.

[Stealthee]

No manual is going to have that info for any car. A car is designed for a specific size battery but, but oftentimes other batteries have similar dimensions and post placement and will also work but requires you to do a little research to figure it out.

[soobiedoobie]

Originally Posted by ctesla

yes, but the legacy has a lower slung hood..
while the group 34 might fit, it is slightly taller than the 25..
you do NOT want to close the hood and build an arc welder..
go to walmart, or auto store, and measure, as those top posts
do sit a little higher..
25- LxWxH - 9 1/16 6 7/8 7 7/8
34- LxWxH - 10 1/4 6 13/16 8 7/8

it should work; just double check prior to purchase; or install..

I'm not even sure how to check such a thing.

I eyeballed it but have no clue. I'm not sure how to measure or if I can measure. Also the interior of the hood has a heat pad.

I note in Subaru OEM parts, the Legacy and Outback take the same hood and heat pad. I could probably check to see if all body panels are equally shared to get an idea on general dimensions. From what I've seen so far, parts between the two are the same unless it's the rear lift gate or something like that.

Looks like the 16 Outback has the same battery specs as my Legacy.

I'm also seeing different dimensions on different sites. Subaru doesn't list the dimensions for the OEM so I have to use a general Group 25 measure.

[soobiedoobie]

Well I found an old school lead Duracell Ultra Gold 34N with 800 CCA for about $150. Not AGM but still... height listed as even 8".

Battery Equivalents website lists Group 35 as having same measurement as Group 25.

Group 25, Subaru OEM is L 9 1/16. W 6 7/8. H 8 7/8
Group 24. L 10 1/4 W 6 13/16 H 8 7/8


I think Subaru puts the smaller choice in to save money but the larger tray gives the option to upgrade aftermarket.

So if this is the case, I'll upgrade to the 34.

[Stealthee]

Verify terminal/post placement as well.

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by soobiedoobie

The Subaru OEM is 550 CCA btw.

I'm eyeballing this 850 CCA Odyssey AGM with a 4 year warranty.

my internet is slower than RTD lightrail to DIA.. just saw this post that came in after other posts.. Odyssey is a very good battery, but slightly over priced..
also, that 850cca is super, but if you decide not necessary; anything above what you have currently: 400-450? it is still working; but anything above 500-600cca would be better for colorado's great 70+degree weather, to -5degree next day drops that sometimes happen more often than we'd like..

[ctesla]

and Stealthee is right;
many battery companies make a 24 or 34, and 24R or 34R; meaning the postive and negative posts are reversed for driver or passenger side battery placement; negative posts are almost always placed nearest the fender (ground), so when swinging a wrench you cannot connect POS+ battery post w/ wrench to the fender..

[soobiedoobie]

Originally Posted by ctesla

my internet is slower than RTD lightrail to DIA.. just saw this post that came in after other posts.. Odyssey is a very good battery, but slightly over priced..
also, that 850cca is super, but if you decide not necessary; anything above what you have currently: 400-450? it is still working; but anything above 500-600cca would be better for colorado's great 70+degree weather, to -5degree next day drops that sometimes happen more often than we'd like..

My current Subaru OEM is 550. I did note it took longer to start when the temp was about -6 back in late February. As a Denver native, I've seen a cold as -24 straight temp though that cold is rare but I would question the car's ability to turn with that cold.

[soobiedoobie]

Originally Posted by ctesla

and Stealthee is right;
many battery companies make a 24 or 34, and 24R or 34R; meaning the postive and negative posts are reversed for driver or passenger side battery placement; negative posts are almost always placed nearest the fender (ground), so when swinging a wrench you cannot connect POS+ battery post w/ wrench to the fender..

Right. This is driver's side so standard.

[soobiedoobie]

I'm going to have to call a mechanic about this.

I find this website that says upgrading above OEM can fry components early.



You would rarely find yourself using a battery outside of the specified group size for your car. Nevertheless, with the different car battery varieties and the requirements of a car’s aftermarket audio component, there are some people who might consider a battery with larger dimensions than what is specified for their car. But, group sizes are strictly followed for a reason.

When installing a larger one, the least of your problems would be the battery not fitting the vehicle’s battery tray. Bigger batteries would most likely come in contact with the other metal parts in your car, which increases the risk of a fire. It would also*wear out the original alternator of your car*faster sinceit requires a longer time to keep it charged. Not changing the other electrical components, your wiring, CPU, fuse box, and*the starter would break faster due to the higher amperage running through the circuits. * *

For batteries smaller than the specified group size for your vehicle, there is also a higher rate of wear and tear for your electrical components – particularly the alternator. This is due to the smaller battery using more energy to start the engine, which would have the alternator charge it for a longer time. You would also have to consider if it would have enough power for the underlying electronics on your vehicle – on-board computer, radio, AC, and lights.*

[ctesla]

soobiedoobie, it would be great if you posted this other website that had the functions posted about the workings of a battery..
like here:

https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/...tarts-your-car

but FYI-
(kind of reader's digest)-
when key is turned, battery energizes starter momentarily to crank engine; then that's it.. an alternator then runs your vehicle's components,- AND charges back the battery; it basically keeps a fully charged battery, fully charged.. IF the alternator fails, this is when the battery's 'reserve capacity' kicks in, but seldom ever used..
just like the 'cold crank amps' .. most days (and most city/states) it is above 32degrees. but when it is minus 10, i would much rather have this batt:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

than this one:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...ze-34/28275671

same size.. same 12V.. different starting/charging characteristics..
i also do not think we ever said if your subie was a 4 or 6 cyl..? i do not recall..
but this could be why bigger battery tray; for a #34 as opposed to a #25; regardless here are some selections of same size batt. w/ different attributes:

https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/...stalcode=80235

i hope this helps; but still, go to a service center;
or autozone, as they install free with purchase..

[Stealthee]

That website doesn't know anything. CCA has nothing do with your electrical components. A higher CCA will be better for your alternator because the cranking should be reduced, therefor reducing the voltage drop in the battery, therefor reducing the load on the alternator.

The only thing you have to be conscious of is the height/dimensions so things don't come into contact. That's it. Anyone that says it could fry things has zero proof and is just repeating something their dad's friends brothers friends dad said. A 12v battery is a 12v battery regardless of its size. The CCA is literally the only difference.

[soobiedoobie]

Originally Posted by ctesla

soobiedoobie, it would be great if you posted this other website that had the functions posted about the workings of a battery..
like here:

So what I have is a 4cyl 2.5 liter but I'm seeing it takes the same group 25 as the 6 cyl.


The text I posted above came from Curateview by a guy who supposedly has a degree in mechanical and electric engineering. He seems quite convinced that getting a larger battery than came with the car is going to cause damage. I don't have that technical background but offhand to me that doesn't make sense. Manufacturers are going to put little batteries in to keep costs down. That doesn't mean anything larger will kill the car.


I've eyeballed the group 25 red top Optima and I decided against it firstly due to the bad reputation they've gotten for quality since moving manufacture to Mexico and secondly, the red top 25 is taller than the one I have right now so I'm not certain of the fit. Third, geez is it overpriced.



I've found AGM and non-AGM in 24 and 24N that fit the height and width of the current battery and are longer but not so long they take up the whole spare approximate 2 inches of room that are vacant in my OEM battery tray.


My list includes:


Bosch S5 non-AGM or S6 AGM

Duracell Ultra Gold non-AGM 34N (WalMart MAXX 34N replacement which others have put into Outbacks)

NAPA Legend Premium AGM



Just started looking into AC Delco or Motorcraft.



I really don't want store brands.

[Stealthee]

My AGM in both my Stealth and my DD Lancer are Autocraft/Carquest Advance Auto brand batteries and have been great.

As for the article, that guy is literally just a blogger. He has no idea what he is talking about. The fact remains a 12V battery is a 12V battery. Putting a bigger battery in doesn't stress your charging system. The battery is literally just to start the car, and to take big hits/spikes to the system. Once a car starts the alternator keeps it running.

The fact he tries to say amperage is higher with a bigger battery proves he doesn't know anything about cars/car batteries. You'll be 100% fine.

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by Stealthee

My AGM in both my Stealth and my DD Lancer are Autocraft/Carquest Advance Auto brand batteries and have been great.

As for the article, that guy is literally just a blogger. He has no idea what he is talking about. The fact remains a 12V battery is a 12V battery. Putting a bigger battery in doesn't stress your charging system. The battery is literally just to start the car, and to take big hits/spikes to the system. Once a car starts the alternator keeps it running.

The fact he tries to say amperage is higher with a bigger battery proves he doesn't know anything about cars/car batteries. You'll be 100% fine.

Stealthee uses CarQuest (now Advance Auto) batteries.. i worked for CQ for many years.. their private label oil; on the back (just like NAPA oil) says:
manufactured by Ashland Oil= Valvoline..
same with their batteries; CarQuest= East Penn, which = Deka who makes (among others) Deka, for Harley-Davidson, Deka, for NASCAR, Batteries Plus are Deka, Exide is a sub-company for them, Deka is also Duracell..and more.

naturally their gels are priced steep, AGM is a little better (but they still know it and show in price), and your subaru has been doing fine with lead acid upto now, (is it snowing there? we are getting another foot behind Pikes Peak; and 8 degrees this morning, and my walmart M/C battery will start my Arctic Cat to plow in the a.m.) so; that technology is still in most all vehicles..
and they'll be fine for 5-7yrs in colorado climate..

interstate is still a great battery as well..
there is nothing against a walmart brand; just like all others, will either work, or won't; and will still last 5-6+/-years.. and a $7-10 install in 15 min..
entirely up to you..

yes Optima (since Gates restructure) is more a 1 in every 12/15 batteries is bad, as opposed to the old Optima 1 in every 125 batteries; but the benefit of "store buying" is the store is on the corner wherever you drive..
amazon and 'boutique' batteries are not; but again, most batteries, if they work, are going to work for AT LEAST 3-5yrs maintenance free..
hope this helps.