fuel pressure, please help, cpi?

[blazee]

Originally Posted by b1gs3xy

LOL, This is funny. I am trying to compare this post with the FRAM Filters one. They are both hilarious. I personally have never heard of the muffler having anything to do with emmisions, only the Cat. But yeah, my question is..... I live in minnesota which has no emmisions, but I am wondering if I need to keep the cat on mine? With my CPI problems I toasted my cat, and I am going to run some new exhaust and I want to cut the cat out. Does that affect the back pressure? Will I get better or worse performance without the cat? Also what muffler will have the meanist sound? I know its tricky with V6's. That raven sounds pretty cool. My friend has a flow master on his jimmy but I don't like the sound. Thanks, Rob.

I suggest that you leave the cat on. Even though you don't have emissions testing, it is still illegal to tamper with emissions systems. I don't have emission testing in my area either, but there is a law that any vehicle manufactured after 1976 must have a cat. If you have loud exhaust and you annoy the cop, occassionally they will take a peak to see if you got one. (not because they care, but they do it just to find more charges) There's a cop here that runs open headers on his 4x4.

There is also the issue that BlazerLT mentioned about the O2 sensor. If you remove the cat, you have to use the dummy O2 sensor.

If you need a new cat, the best deal that I have seen is from SummitRacing.com. They have a Magnaflow direct fit cat for about $130. You just bolt it on. No installation fee.

Originally Posted by b1gs3xy

Oh yeah, I bought a fram filter from walmart and before I did my oil change I read the post about filters. So I pissed in it and threw it away. lol!!!!

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

On your 95, you will have an O2 sensor after the cat. Removing the cat will have this sensor trip a code and will screw up your fuel ratios.

The only way to get around it is to install and O2 sensor simulator in place of the post cat sensor.

I honestly would just install a high flow 2.25" universal cat. They can be purchased really cheap on ebay and installation won't cost much.

Personally I agree with Blazer LT on replacing it with a high flow 2.25" universal cat. As already said, my cat also went bad from the the CPI and Nut Kit leaking. I can't say what all performance places or exhaust shops in your area, however I just ordered mine Friday(be here Monday) from a performance store here in my town, and its just a universal 2.25" cat high flow, which is nothing more than bolt on also, and I was able to pick it up for $106 total including taxes.

[blazee]

Universal cats are not just bolt on. Universal cats require cutting out the old cat and fitting the new one in. They also have a tendency to leak if not welded. Direct fit bolt on cats are premade to bolt to the existing flanges. You simply unbolt the old cat and then put the new one on. The price difference is minimal and IMO the direct fit are much better, because they are less likely to develop leaks.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by blazee

Universal cats are not just bolt on. Universal cats require cutting out the old cat and fitting the new one in. They also have a tendency to leak if not welded. Direct fit bolt on cats are premade to bolt to the existing flanges. You simply unbolt the old cat and then put the new one on. The price difference is minimal and IMO the direct fit are much better, because they are less likely to develop leaks.

Well they showed me the exact cat im getting, the only difference between the one I was showed, and the one I am getting is the size because the one they showed me is 2.5", and it is a direct bolt on. They said they're universal, however they could be wrong, and it be a direct fit.

[BlazerLT]

Direct fit cost almost twice the money.

Get a 2.25" universal and have it welded in and save money.

Don't allow them to bullshit you that it won't work because mine has one on right now.

[blazee]

You're right. When I said the difference was minimal, I was going by the local price for a universal cat ($100) plus figuring about $10 - $20 for installation and comparing that to the $130 for a direct fit cat and doing a self install.


I just checked some online prices and you can order a universal cat much cheaper. (about half the price)

I'm still going with the direct fit magnaflow, though.

[rlith]

I picked up a universal catco high flow for 65.00 when I went to summit. I used stainless band clamps (4"x4") and have yet to have it leak. Passed inspection fine as well.

[b1gs3xy]

Will this one work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by b1gs3xy

Will this one work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

It will work perfectly.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by demotim00

Alright, I finally got around to going to an exhaust shop and having my exhaust system looked it. It is truly indeed my catalytic converter thats broke up on the inside from all the fuel dumping through. My muffler is also beginning to show signs of replacement, so since I want custom exhaust anyway I am just going to go ahead and have the cat replaced with a highflow cat and have the muffler replaced with a flowmaster 40 series single inlet and dual outlet with stainless steel tips. Just figured I would let everyone know of what the rattling noise turned out to be.

Well, I just got around to getting my cat changed today with the highflow cat I bought. However I still have the rattle noise that sounds like a heat shield or exhaust manifold cracked or loose, along with a surging at low speeds, and somewhat rough idle, and kinda like a little miss. I know the rough idle, little miss, and surging are signs of the EGR Valve, however my EGR valve is not clogged, and I was told by 2 different mechanics that the problems I was having was do to my cat. However considering the cat been changed today, and I'm still experiencing the problems, the cat did not have any affect on the problems. Does anyone have any ideas what to do next, replace the EGR valve or what? Someone please help, because I'd love to keep the Jimmy, however Ive already spent about $1600 in repairs and yet I KEEP ON having problems, and am getting very close to getting rid of it.

[BlazerLT]

remove and clean the EGR valve and reinstall with a new EGR gasket.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

remove and clean the EGR valve and reinstall with a new EGR gasket.

Well I took out the EGR valve, and it was working properly, along with no carbon stuck in it, along with all the passages didnt seem to be blocked or anything, so I went on and put a new gasket on and put it back togather, and since I was stumped, went on and took it to a shop to have it looked it. Turns out my spark plugs are fowled, from the last when when the CPI was leaking and was replaced under warranty. So I'm going to go ahead and replace all 6 plugs, and go from there. If anyone has any suggestions or anything, please feel free to post it, as I am not 100% certain that the plugs are causing all of my problems. I know fowled plugs can cause rough idle and surging and all, however Ive never heard of or had fowled plugs cause a rattle on acceleration.

[BlazerLT]

Use standard AC Delco plugs gapped at 0.045.

What other tuneup items have you done?

Hope you have changed the oil since the CPI was fixed.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Use standard AC Delco plugs gapped at 0.045.

What other tuneup items have you done?

Hope you have changed the oil since the CPI was fixed.

I did the air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor when the CPI got fixed the first time. The oil change was done after the second time of the CPI leaking, and have kept an eye on it to make sure it doesnt smell like gas, and its good. As far as the type of plugs I plan on using Bosch Super as they're the cheapest I can find, and I've never had a problem with them before. Do you recommend changing the cap, rotor, and wires also, even though the shop didnt say they need replacement?

[BlazerLT]

How old are the cap rotor and wires now?