Oil pressure light was blinking at idle; now constant

[dylanborns]

I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done:
Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).

Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on. Also, the oil is good on the dipstick.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on everytime it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but since around the end of november I had posted here with a question on a "hot" smell that I thought seemed like burning rubber, but now I'm wondering if its something else.
I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester, but for some reason all the LAP's stores don't have them on the shelf for sale, and the ones they can order are over $100.

Any other suggestions?

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by dylanborns

I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done:
Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).

Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on. Also, the oil is good on the dipstick.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on everytime it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but since around the end of november I had posted here with a question on a "hot" smell that I thought seemed like burning rubber, but now I'm wondering if its something else.
I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester, but for some reason all the LAP's stores don't have them on the shelf for sale, and the ones they can order are over $100.

Any other suggestions?

Check harborfrieght.com for a oil pressure gauge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-...kit-98949.html

I do not believe that changing oil wieghts cause the light to come on. Inspect your sending unit and wiring for leakge or bad wire. Also test with gauge so you know what the pressures at idle and higher rpm are for piece of mind. What kind of oil filter do you use, was it also switched to a different brand ?

[dylanborns]

I have seen them cheaper on ebay (than the auto parts store), but didn't think about checking with HF. Theres a store locally, so I'll see if they have one in stock.

I know there is a small oil leak somewhere, but I've never been able to track it down. I looked for the sensor yesterday, but wasn't able to locate if from the top of the motor. I'm going to take the plastic skirt off and look from underneath.

I use Wix filters, and didn't change brands on the last oil change.

Thanks

[dylanborns]

I just started it up again after it had cooled all the way down. I let it run for a few minutes and the light didn't come on even though the RPM's were at or below the 1K mark. So it seems as though this issue is happening when the motor gets to op temp and the oil thins out.

If this is actually a low oil pressure issue, and not the change in oil or a bad sensor, am I going to have any other warning signs before this thing detonates on me? I do have to drive it home tomorrow which is about 20 miles.

[tempfixit]

I recommend not drving until you determine oil pressure. I would change the sensor first if you do not have a oil pressure tester.

No oil pressure will damage bearings very quickly.

Have you looked at the autozoone.com website under compotent locations for sensor location?


3.0L Engine

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the right side splash shield.
   NOTE
   The A/C compressor has been removed for clarity.
   
   
   
   <LI sizset="10" sizcache08243132159911565="4">Disconnect the electrical connector, then remove the oil pressure sender.
   
   
   
   Fig. Detach the connector, then remove the oil pressure sender. Note: A/C compressor removed for clarity
   
   
3. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the oil pressure sender to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm) and the right side splash shield retainers to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

Testing

1. Check oil pressure switch for any signs of oil leakage.
2. Check electrical connector for poor connection or damage.
3. Verify continuity on circuit and proper gauge operation.
4. Remove oil pressure switch and install oil pressure gauge.
5. Verify oil pressure 29-39 (psi).
6. Suspect faulty oil pressure switch.

[dylanborns]

Have you looked at the autozoone.com website under compotent locations for sensor location?

I can see the wiring that goes to the sensor from the top of the motor, but can't see the actual sensor itself. I'm sure I can get to it alot easier by removing the plastic skirt and working from underneath.

[dylanborns]

Thanks for your help so far. If I have an actual low oil pressure issue, would that not show up at all times? Why would it just be when the oil gets warmed up? And for it to go away for a day after putting about 50 miles on it?

I'm not questioning your advice, just throwing stuff out there.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by dylanborns

Thanks for your help so far. If I have an actual low oil pressure issue, would that not show up at all times? Why would it just be when the oil gets warmed up? And for it to go away for a day after putting about 50 miles on it?



I'm not questioning your advice, just throwing stuff out there.

When the engine warms up the oil does get a little thinner, You are correct that if a low pressure issue light should be on all the time but just to make sure rather than have a engine failure correct the problem. You may find that the sensor is leaking and is faulty, I would replace even if not leaking. I added the testing procedure on my last post, hopefully that will help you.

The autozone repair guide is free you just need to sign up for it. Just fo to autozone.com and it will direct you as to how to sign up.

[dylanborns]

No, I agree with you, I need to change the sensor. I've called oreilly and they have them in stock so I can pick one up in the morning.
Since I've had other electrical items going bad on this thing lately, I'm hoping that the sensor is just at the end of its life. The other thing I'm thinking is that when I was trying to remove that front bank, upstream O2 sensor, I would have been working in the same general area of this thing and could have damaged the wiring or sensor itself.
I'll check out the Autozone page.
Thanks!

[dylanborns]

I had the light come on as soon as the car got up to temp again this morning. Again, it went out anytime above idle. On the way home I decided to take the highway thinking that without stop and go traffic it would be above idle most of the time. After getting off the highway and into city driving, it didn't come on at all. I even stopped for oil and a sieve.
I got home and changed the oil back to 5w-20 and let the old oil run out thru the sieve in the off chance that I had anything in it. It was clean. I emptied the filter and didn't find anything in it either. I put it back on, refilled and let it run for about 10 minutes. The light didn't come on.
I have a new sensor but wasn't able to get to it from below even with the filter off. I'm going to try by taking the right tire off along with the skirt and see if I can get to it from there.

[dylanborns]

So since yesterday, I've put a little over 40 miles on it, all city driving. The light has not come on at all even at idle. I still don't believe the oil was the reason since I actually went back to a lighter oil, but we'll see how the next few weeks goes.
I'm still going to change the sensor because I already bought it, and theres really no reason not to. When I was trying to find it on the motor yesterday, I was using the wire loom as a guide when fishing my hand down in there, so maybe it is going bad and messing with it did something.

[65comet]

Other possibility. During oil change something in motor, (carbon buildup, cardboard remnant in outflow of new filter, etc.) went into passage in front of sender. Wasn't large enough to totally block the pressure but was enough to trigger warning at low rpm's. Then your highway drive was enough extra high pressure to flush that blockage away from that area.

[dylanborns]

That's why I ran the old oil thru the sieve to see if it caught anything. It did come out clean though.

[dylanborns]

I replaced the oil pressure sender today, and it went pretty easy. The only problem I ran into was the new one I picked up was incorrect. It was from Oreilly and when I put the year and make in online, it showed BWD part #S4224. That was incorrect as it has 1/4" threads and the original is 3/8" threads. I checked back with them and also with Advance Auto. Oreilly didn't have any of the correct sized ones on the shelf and AAP said it was a special order item and would take almost a week to get?
So if anyone is doing this, make sure the one you get is a 3/8". BTW, Napa did have one in stock in the Echlin brand, part #OP6216.
I went ahead and removed the right tire, and right side lower skirt. Remove the belt just from the AC compressor, and move it out of the way. There are three bolts holding the AC compressor on. Remove those and use some wire to tie it up so its not hanging from the AC lines. You'll see the sensor after you move it out of the way. You'll need a 13/16" wrench to take it out. Clean around the sensor if you have any dirt or grime before you remove it. Also, I had about a tsp. of oil that came out when I removed it, so put down some newspaper. Installation is just the opposite. Theres no way to get a torque wrench in there so when you are removing the old, just kind of gauge how hard it is to loosen, and keep that in mind when installing the new one. I'm big on using dielectric grease, and I did that on the sensor connection.

Total time, not counting running back to the auto parts store: 45 minutes.

[tempfixit]

Did the sensor look like it was leaking oil???