DTC P1309 windstar 2000 and occasional stuttering

[azharj]

This is my old post, P1306 instead of P1309
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1149378
In summery, my car is 278K. It had check engine light with code P0156 for a few years and occasional stuttering, which occurs once in a day or two days at RPM 1500 to 2000, or seemed not sure during gearshifts 2-3 or 3-4.
Mechanics were advising not to change Oxygen sensor bank 2, as it is not the cause of the stuttering. I bought my own Autel AL519. No Monitor was ever ready. I replaced Oxygen sensor and erased the code. The stuttering remained though irritating.
My Autel AL519 detected the DTC P1309. Before CEL and DTC P1309, this was Pending Code P1309 and Freeze Frame Data
FRZF P1309
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 ??
LOAD 45.1
STFT1 -5.5%
LTFT1 0%
STFT2 -3.1%
LTFT2 0.8%
RPM 2094
VSS (70KMPH)
ECT 90 C
I had another observation that:
2) Sometimes the Reverse Lights are on even if gear is in parking. Moving the gear lever back to reverse and parking puts the reverse Light off. Once or twice I noticed that I could start in neutral or could not start in parking, I had to move the gear lever parking –back –parking --- Wiswind suggested this is natural safety switch.
Air leaks, I already had done and checked. Changed coil pack, TPS, IAC wires about 4 years back and spark plugs, checked EGR, PCV, Transmission oil level OK (changing yearly 5k miles).
Thanks to tomj76 and many net posts, I changed CMP sensor. Cleared the code, but the code P1309 returned back. On Board Monitor (mode 06) showed 0 misfire and 0 cylinder events. The synchronizer looked normal, except a little rotational play, however no sound. I changed synchronizer also. The mechanic was not aware of degrees and adjustment. He simply put a mark on the engine, without any adjustment of rotor, he fixed the synchronizer. To my surprise car started normally, probably synchronizer was accidentally adjusted normal???. Erased the DTC P1309. This is gone till this date. For some time car ran smoothly was happy. But after sometimes, it jerked again.
Now no pending code no, DTC, only cylinder 4 and 6 show misfire on mode 06. The test value fluctuates. Mechanic checked the spark plugs of the two cylinders. According to him, spark plugs needs changing. He cleaned and reinstalled. The misfire test value zeroed. But after some times came again.
This is the snapshot of the cylinder 4 and 6
Cylinder ID 04 06
Test value 0.49 0.64
Min limit ----- -----
Max limit 26.11 26.11
Status OK OK
The nasty stuttering is still there. I cannot say exactly but seems as if it occurs while changing gear 2-3 or/and 3-4, by reducing gas. What should my next step; changing TRS or spark plugs.
azharj

[tomj76]

The TRS is probably only going to help with the transmission selection lever issues. It most likely will not address the misfire concern. While the TRS might be faulty, it could also be out of alignment. Mine was out of alignment after I had the transmission rebuilt. In my case the symptom was that the reverse lights were on if the transmission was in park. I also could not start the engine if the transmission was moved to neutral from any of the DRIVE selections, but it would start in neutral if it was moved there from PARK or REVERSE. I had to loosen the hold down screw and turn the TRS slightly and re-secure it to get it working right.

The misfire can be caused by the plugs, and since the mechanic said that your plugs are worn it might be time to replace them even if they are not the cause of the misfire. However, misfire can also be caused by ignition issues. Check if the plug wires go to the same coil unit (there are three coils on the assembly pack, each one powers two cylinders). If both cylinders are powered by the same coil then there is a good chance this is the root cause. Also check the wires, and make sure they are in good condition (e.g. soft rubber, no cracks), especially the boots around the spark plugs.

[azharj]

Thanks
But my concern was if it is really misfire or jerks from tranny that I feel as misfire? Mal aligned TRS switch will caues jerks or not? Cylinder 4 and 6 are not one pair so coil is ok. I tested wires with the water spray no leakage; hope these are good, though I changed about 4 years ago.

[12Ounce]

I would test all spark cables with a timing light to see if all are firing properly.

[tomj76]

I'd go with 12Ounce recommendation. I don't believe the misfire (cyl 4 & 6) can be recorded if the problem comes from the transmission. I'm not even sure the transmission would act up like you're thinking if the TRS was broken or misaligned. My test to check this (a be more certain) would be to disconnect the TRS connector once the engine is running, then see if the misfires still occur.

The TRS is how the PCM determines which "gear" you've selected on the transmission. It contains a switch (for starter control in park and neutral), a switch for reverse (for backup lights) and a stack of resistors so that the resistance supplied to the PCM signals if you've selected "D", "2", or "1". The PCM controls three or four solenoids inside the transmission based on this information and the speed to shift through the gears. There are also internal hydraulic valves inside the transmission that are part of shift through gears.

If you disconnect the TRS connector, you won't be able to start the car (without putting a jumper on the right pins of the connector), so removing the connector after it starts should allow you to drive the van without the TRS giving input to the PCM. I believe the PCM will then put the transmission in "limp mode" which sets it for 2nd gear all the time. If you still get misfires, then there the TRS is not the cause. However if you don't get misfires, then you can't be sure if the TRS was the cause or the other fault did not occur during the test.

The water spray test you performed can be a good method to show by plug wires, but it is not certain to catch all ignition issues. For example, if there is a problem inside one of the coil units, then water spray won't make any difference.

I did some checking, and it looks like cylinders 1 & 5, 2 & 6, and 3 & 4 share coil units, when numbered (1-2-3) rear bank, (4-5-6) front bank, with firing order (1-4-2-5-3-6).

A couple of misfire causes are (1) clogged EGR ports under the upper intake manifold (2) bad spark plug boots (the ones that are down in the spark plug holes), particularly if the plug wires are old.

[azharj]

Thanks all my brothers. I will check spark cables. Cables are 320000 miles old. And plugs 12000 miles. Changed Plugs C6 and C4 problem still there. Cables apparently look normal but will swap and see.

[azharj]

Strange ?? Few days back changed plugs for cylinder #4 & #6. I erased the PCM memory frequently and checked the On-Board-Monitor. It showed always, some misfire in Cylinder #4 & #6. Yesterday, I already had driven about 20-30 mile, hooked scanner, opened On-Board-Monitor. Strangly it showed zero misfire, in Cylinder #4& #6 while previously having misfires, but show some misfires in #2, having no missfire before. The only, thing I did was that I drove without excess (with gentle) acceleration.
Azharj

[tomj76]

Any issues with those plugs that you removed? Could #2 be the same?

[12Ounce]

Does this year engine use the single ignition pack? How many miles service are on it, if so?

[azharj]

Thanks for all, for valuable suggestions and interest. The car has a coil pack from which separate wires go to spark plugs of each cylinder. I mentioned in my previous posts that synchronizer was installed without proper setting of TDC of #1 cylinder or vane to window relationship. I changed all the 6 plugs (Platinum tip 42 FM). The plug from #2 was severely damage, whereas the misfire monitor showed mostly # 4 or # 6. After changing the plugs the stuttering went away. But On-Board-Monitor still showed sometime # 6, # 4 or # 2. Not satisfied with the installation of synchronizer, I decided to go to another mechanic and to guide him to install synchronizer as directed in the following links: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/bo...ndstar2002.pdf
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/atta...22-01-pdf.513/
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=411676
The synchronizing tool was a problem. I made it myself, simply cutting a piece of hard board as shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, using the old synchronizer. Brought the cylinder #1 to compression stroke of TDC by removing the spark plug. The marks on the balancer were easily seen from behind and below. The vane was about 60 degree anticlockwise ahead of the window, so decided to reinstall it. Fixed the card board tool in the synchronizer. Installed the synchronizer in a way that the red lines drawn on the card board tool came in alignment to the imaginary line parallel to engine center line and the vehicle, thus, ensured the 54 degrees from the engine center line. Just to mention that my old synchronizer had slight side to side play as compared to the new one, while no sound, chirp or squeak. As mentioned in my first post, now the RPM at idle remain almost same 700-712, the STFT which was + in bank one and - in bank 2, the difference became more obvious (up to 10 and -10) at high RPM, now almost same in both banks; same is with advance, it varies 15-19, whie previously rose up to 35 degrees. Now my Windstar is a real Windstar. No vibration, no hesitation, no missing or stuttering. What I got lesson from this (may need correction):
1. One should think of simple things first, instead the complicated one. Plugs, though claimed for 50,000 miles may need to be changed even after 10,000 miles.
2. Ford recommends to adjust the synchronizer and /or change the camshaft sensor if it is defective, whereas some posts recommend, changing both sensor and synchronizer in DTC P1309. So both should be changed
3. A defective synchronizer may not squeak or chirp
4. The misfire monitor may not point out the exact culprit cylinder, because it detects misfire by crank speed not the electrical events, or improper synchronization.
5. Bad plugs or maladjusted synchronizer can result different STFT in bank 1 and bank 2
Thanks azharj