Grand AM 96 3100 V6 Starting Issues

[Alfredogalvan]

I am not sure if there is an exact thread for my problem but, I am trying to get you guys where I stand, usaully I read all the threads until I am out of reading material and then I do the post.
Once said that, this is the story, my wife ran this grand am back home with little gas, less than quarter of tank, and then the car did not wanted to start anymore, just starts 2 seconds and then dies, my first guess was that there was a Gas issue and I start inspecting the pump that was ok, I clearly hear the noise on the fuel cap, opened the motor and insert a clip on the quick connector and I found gas, checked the in rail mounter fuel regulator and according to the threads it have to be no gas on the vaccum connector, there was some and I went straig ahead and changed , but the car still doing the same, I went now over the pump relay and it works fine, I completely dissasembly then the ignition module , looking for the spark failure , but everything was ok, coil resistance was ok , and harnesses looks fine, and then after playing with all the cables it started I tough that was it but not , turned off the car and then again the same issue starts , 2 seconds and then died. inspec all cables coming out of the battery and then all fuses everything is ok , what I noticed and my wife commented to me before this all issue was, that the instrument cluster was all crazy , nothing worked , everything as on or it was erratical (as a reference , this is a replacement, when I purchased the car, I had to change it because it did not work at all) anyways but the car still working, there was no codes on my OBD scanner to get me somewhere... so I guess will rule out the fuel and the spark, because the car has turned on and I has been able to drive like 3 times with no issue more that the cluster not working. Then I read that could be the Passlock system, because the nature of the start then die symptom. I opened up the whole panel , even remove the cluster and did not find anything strange and connectors where firmly attached to the panel, I openend all the steering wheel, where it is the ignition switch and the cylinder lock, coming out of this last one, the harness with the 3 wires, yellow white and black, only between black and white I was able to measure some resistance 39.2 KOhms when the car was on and 38.8 kOhms when the car was off, I read that I should by pass this by cutting , and putting some resistance on it., but honestly I cannot miss more diagnostics, unaffortunately my Haynes Manual do not tells me too much, Ah Just to finish with the electrical circuit of the pump, while it was running I disconnected the relay hoping that the car will shut off , but still running meaning that the oil pressure switch was driving the pump, ruling out an issue with the electrical switch, now my questions or clues are either the PCM, the ignition switch or something else electrical , unless someone can have any better ideas, I am running out of time , money and patience , so I someone has any idea, or ay diagram.schematic or similar , I'll be appy to read it. I am going to post it in all forums that I know hoping to get some help
Thanks to ALL
ALFREDO

[3100]

how did you measure the resistance?

the correct way is: strip the black wire in the middle (do not cut it!) but cut the yellow. Then ignition key to ON position (do not start it) and measure resistance between yellow wire on the key side and the stripped black wire. When you measure it write it down on the paper, then reverse the leads of the DVOM (digital voltage ohm meter) and write down the resistance again.

Now the higher of the two readings is the correct one, so go to radio shack and try to find resistor as close as possible to the resistance that you measured. If you can't find the exact single resistor of that value find couple of them use your math knowledge to put them together in line ex: lets say you have resistance of 237 ohms. you can get two 100 ohm resistors 3 10 ohm resistors, 1 5 ohm and two 1 ohm resistors connect them all in line to get 237. Then when you find the resistor cut the black wire also and then connect your resistor between the black and yellow wires that you just cut. (connect the resistor on the side opposite of the key cylinder wires.

[Alfredogalvan]

is this procedure to override the passlock?
how do I know that the whole cylinder lock is faulty?
or if the IPC is the issue ? how to know?

this cylinder lock has the wires coming ot to a connector is this the key side??

Alfredo

[3100]

when you cut the wires then you will have two separate sides, the side of the cut wire that is still connected to the key cylinder is the "key side" the other side leads somewhere else most likely to instrument panel cluster.

[Alfredogalvan]

Originally Posted by 3100

when you cut the wires then you will have two separate sides, the side of the cut wire that is still connected to the key cylinder is the "key side" the other side leads somewhere else most likely to instrument panel cluster.

I just did as per your instructions and nothing happen, keep doing the same, I went to buy a new ignition switch , installed and again the same behaviour, I am running out of patience , money and ideas, at the momento , new ignition switch and new fuel pump regulator , what next????

[Alfredogalvan]

Another day trying to fix this car...
got all the PCM disconnected, cleanned and installed nothing wrong found the car did the same, but started as before but once it turns off do the same...
this time I am thinking to get back to the fuel pump theory while it was running, I got a missfire P0304 , when it was off , ,check the spark plug , nothing wrong.,.
it might be the fuel pressure pump noww?

[Alfredogalvan]

I am feeling more inclined to send this car to the scrap yard...
change the fuel filter (the one in the back) , purchase a fuel pressure gage, connected to the fuel injectors rail port ( turned on , motor off) - 42 psi (spec 41-47 PSI) conclusion
fuel pump ok BUT , car still doing the same !!!!
Please help
Alfredo