1996 Geo Prism - no start / no click condition

[lebod]

My 1996 Geo Prism (Toyota Corolla, Automatic - 1.6L engine) quietly clicks when trying to start it. I've replaced a number parts on this vehicle very recently: New Battery, new Starter, new Starter Relay, new Fuses, new Fusible Links. I had the old starter tested at Advance Auto and it was bad. I've also tried re-positioning the Park-Neutral Position Switch in the front of the car with slight (oblong hole) adjustments; anything to get a response. I've tried putting the car in other gears to start it, particularly Neutral. Nothing is helping. The headlights work fine. I've also tried jump-starting it with my other vehicle. No matter what I've tried, there is no power (apparantly) getting through to the Starter. It just quietly clicks. For a while, I kept blowing a 30-amp fusible link. After replacing the Starter, the fusible link is fine...but still, the car just will not start. Seems like this should be something simple, but I have no clue what it is. This is a well-maintained 1996 Prism with just over 117,000 miles. Runs like a kitten...until this no-start condition surfaced a month ago. Any suggestions? I had just replaced the rear brake wheel cylinders and bled the brakes...test-drove the car, and realized the brake pedal was still mushy. I drove the vehicle forward up on ramps (front wheels elevated) and put it in Park. After re-bleeding the front and rear brakes, the brake pedal felt much better. Then I tried to start it...and nothing. Not even a "click". I did find a bad 30-amp fusible link connected to the Starter / Starter Relay, which I replaced...plus all those other parts. The car still will not start, as the Starter is apparantly not getting any juice. I am completely baffled by this. I've exhausted what I could glean from my Haynes manual, too. Hoping to tap into better expertise, somehow, by posting this thread.

[aleekat]

Have you tried 12v directly to the starter? That eliminates the neutral safety switch, ignition switch, cables. etc

[lebod]

I ran a short jumper wire directly from the main (battery lead) starter connector to the (starter relay) connector, again, both there on the new starter. I also unscrewed the Ignition Switch from under the dash. I placed a medium-sized flat head screw driver into the Ignition Switch (where the key would normally engage it) and turned it on. The car started immediately and ran smoothly. After doing that I assumed I had a faulty Ignition Switch. I replaced it and tried starting it, however, it just clicked and again would not crank at the starter and start the engine; just the usual quiet-click sound. Bear in mind, I've already replaced the Starter Relay. At this point, I am assuming I have a wiring short somewhere; some type of faulty wiring between the (new) Ignition Switch and the (new) 30A and 40A fusible links within the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. I'm assuming it's a problem somewhere near the kick-panel fuse box there on the Drivers side. Will check to see where I definitely have power within that circuit, and where it dead-ends. I had assumed, also, that the smaller (click-on) connector at the Starter had a damaged wire and/or bad connection. I looked at that earlier today and there is nothing wrong with that (black) wire and the click-on connector is clean; almost like-new. I'm wondering, also, if there is a hidden in-line / low-amperage fuse along that black igniton wire as it heads over to the Starter Relay. One way or another, I don't have connectivity on the Relay side of the Starter. Lastly, I have no dashboard lights. Only the AirBag light comes on when attempting to start the vehicle.

[lebod]

Able to isolate an apparant wiring short on the Starter Relay side, somewhere between the Relay itself and the Starter. Ran a new 10-gauge wire from the Ignition Switch (White "hot" lead) over to the Battery Positive terminal. Doing so effectively completes the Starter circuit on this 1996 Prism. Anyway, that resulted in restored (electrical) connectivity and the vehicle now starts like a champ. I'm not entirely sure why this solved the problem other than to say, from the Wiring Diagram, I ended up replacing half that Starter circuit by running a new wire from the Ignition Switch over to the Battery (Positive) terminal. Used new connectors and carefully taped them, as well. Problem solved...finally(!). Happy New Year 2015!!