4T65E Trans Shift Hard, P1811 DTC

[Tech II]

I always pop the axle out with a pry bar......

Better jack that vehicle up quite a bit, you are going to have to lower that cradle quite a bit......

[enslow]

Thanks for the tip Tech Il. I'll take some measurements to see how much I'll have to drop the cradle to clear the upper frame "rail".

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[la1]

Make sure to disconnect your intermediate shaft. If it were me, I would use an engine support as opposed to a jack underneath. If you do use an engine support get one for a transverse engine, should have 3 legs. You tube has or did have some vids of people who replaced the PCS by dropping their sub frame. with the engine support not only does it hold from above , you can drop the engine trans down or crank it back up

[enslow]

Originally Posted by Tech II

I always pop the axle out with a pry bar......

Better jack that vehicle up quite a bit, you are going to have to lower that cradle quite a bit......

You make it sound so easy, "pop the axle out with a pry bar...."

Just how easy should it come? I tried prying, rotating the axle, then prying again. I was at it for over an hour.

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[Tech II]

You have to remember, I've always done this on a lift.......every time I tried it, it popped right out(may have had to rotate the axle).....the proper tool is a slide hammer with a u shaped attachment that goes around the end of the axle.....

[enslow]

I noticed in some pictures of others prying the axle out, there appeared to be over an inch between the transmission and subframe just below the axle. I have maybe 3/4 inch. Is 3/4 inch typical? It's on a 99 Lesahre.

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[Tech II]

I go sideways, parallel to the subframe.....

[enslow]

OK,tried that. There's not much room for the prybar. I tried placing it behind the inner CV joint then hit the prybar sideways with a hammer. I've got a friend with a slide hammer who should be able to get it out for me. I can't believe I'm the only one who has this trouble. I can feel about 2 mm endplay as it slides against that inner snap ring, but it will not budge past that. Mind you, I don't have a long prybar either, not that a longer prybar would fit sideways as you suggested.

[enslow]

We got the axle out. I think it's a worthwhile note for anyone attempting the PCS replacement that the axle needs a fair bit of leverage to get out. There's not much room when the car is on jackstands to put a decent lever underneath. Even from sideways, like Tech II suggested, to squeeze yourself between a garage floor and the underbody, AND get enough leverage requires you to be a contortionist. I'm sure it can come out fairly easily for some but don't be surprised if it isn't as easy as they say.
Remember, Tech II had a lift.

Thanks Tech II, I appreciate your help.

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[la1]

the driver side is a lot harder to remove the axle than the passenger due to the sub frame I bought the Kent Moore GM special tool that bolts up to a 5lb OTC slide hammer. I think that is the trick though at getting the axle out. it is not pressure it is a sudden forcefull "shock". Here is my vid I made. Pleas note. I also replaced a wheel bearing and a ball joint, so a lot more was removed than what would need to to remove the CV AXLE, although if u are replacing the PCS, it will look familiar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK5S51dJQho

BTW Seems the tie rod ends threaded shaft spin freely and will need to be replaced if the nut is loosened and separated.

[enslow]

Thanks.

You have some nice tools, including the lower ball joint tool. I used a hammer on the stud housing and they came free quite easily, with a little shifting of the lower control arm and hub.

However, for all those neat tools, I'm surprised you didn't get this:
http://www.oem-tools.com/products/show/27037

Maybe I'm paranoid, but hitting the end of the axle shaft to pop the hub off may damage the CV joint, from what I hear. I do realize, however, you were replacing your axle making that point moot in your case.

Just a copule of points regarding your video (nice video, BTW):
1) For those of you doing the job yourself, he didn't show removing the cotter pins from the castle nuts of the ball joint and tie rod ends. the lower ball joint cotter pin was a real pain to remove. It probably took me a 1/2 hour to get out. And that was the cotter pin only.
2) Don't expect the strut to knuckle bolts to come out as easily as they did in the video. I had one that was quite stubborn.
3) removing the caliper may require that the caliper piston be compressed a little, if the rotors are worn any.

You made everything look easy, and to many it probably is. Murphies law dictates that I will experience every difficulty at every step.

I am about to lower the sub frame tomorrow. I've got the car supported on the frame supports (in between the rear sub frame mount and pinch weld seam... check your own service manual to verify safe support points). In general I don't trust pinch weld seams to support the car. I've got a couple of 3 ton jacks so that I can lower the sub frame inch by inch.

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[Tech II]

Too much is being removed...you do not have to disconnect the outer tie rod.....do not have to mess with the stabilizer link....do not have to remove steering knuckle(certainly do not have to remove it from the strut)....

Remove caliper, and hang with something, so no stress on the rubber hose.....if brake line is attached to strut, disconnect it, so it is free of strut.....remove the axle nut and drive the center of the axle back just so it loosens from bearing....

Remove cotter pin from castle nut.....remove nut....special tool I use is a large cold chisel.....I wedge it between the bottom edge of the knuckle(away from the boot), and one of the pop rivets of the lower ball joint...give the chisel a few whacks, and it releases the ball joint....using a pry bar, I lower the control arm, remove the ball joint from the knuckle and pull the knuckle/strut assembly outward and to the rear(while pushing the axle inward), and I now have the end of the axle free....now just pop the axle out of the tranny....I recommend a new axle seal, when doing a job like this....

If you are not strong enough, it helps to have someone pull the strut outward towards the rear(while turning the strut assembly like a left turn), while you grab the axle and pull it inward to disengage it(remember, the axle has to be driven loose from the bearing before doing this)....

[maxwedge]

The issue with the axle removal is when prying on it you are cocking the axle which makes it difficult to get past the snap ring, if possible use 2 pry bars opposite from each other.

[enslow]

I forgot to mention that I'm replacing struts too. It makes sense to do it at the same time. I'm kind of glad I loosened the stabilizer link, for myself. It makes it easier to pry the control arm down, and I discovered the bolt inside the stabilizer link was rusted out.

I can see, though, that it is possible to do the job without removing the stablizer link.

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[enslow]

How many of you who have removed the side pan on a LeSabre/Bonneville/88 had to separate the sub-frame? I cannot seem to get it out between the valve body and sub-frame.

I just checked again... I think I'll get yet. The top is hung up on the brake lines. Tech II really means it when he says you have to drop it really low. Keep in mind, I had to remove the frame bolts on both sides.

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