1995-2000 Trans/Clutch Removal Guide (PICS)

Johnny Mullet · 06-11-2008, 09:43 PM

This is a 1998 Chevy Metro 1.0L 5 speed

Here is my transmission and clutch removal guide for you to enjoy. Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper unless you are an anorexic. First thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Give it a good shakin' (without denting the body -lol-) to make sure the car is safe because you will be directly under the car and nobody wants to die unless you think you can bench-press a Metro.

Start off under the hood and..........

Remove battery (2 10MM nuts)
Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts)
Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull)
Remove clutch cable (14MM nut)
Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts)
Unplug reverse light connector (duh)
Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt)
Reference pic below..................

Now you are done under the hood for now. Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removal.

Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet)
Remove the LF tire (4 19MM)
Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM)
Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut)
Push in axle shaft to see if it's free

Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt)
Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate.

Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free
Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside

Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts.

Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found out removing these were actually the hardest part of the entire job! These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link a double joint (not the kind you roll) and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't even try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.

After getting this far, it's time for a short break to collect your senses and thoughts so you don't screw up.

Ok, so lets get this transmission out now. Remember all that fun you had removing the shift rod? Get back under there and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans.

Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM)
Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM)
Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM)
Use the floor jack holding engine to help you.
While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut)
Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)

Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube.

Under car remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts)
Top of car, remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts)
Make sure you removed bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM)
Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM)
Lean over car and grab trans (like you love it) and begin carefully wiggling the trans loose from the engine and use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not as buff as me

Now remember in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground? If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. Good luck with that.

Now it is time for the clutch. This is gravy work now. Hopefully you got all the proper parts and supplies like a brand new -=Sachs=- Clutch kit and 3 quarts of Synchromesh trans oil from Pennzoil, GM, or Castrol. The shop I work at only uses the best products and that is what I used.

Replace throwout bearing on trans side
Remove the old clutch (6 12 MM bolts)
Replace the pilot bearing from flywheel (I made a tool)
If you want to resurface, then remove the flywheel instead. I simply used a medium grit Roloc and carefully scuffed mine. These engines have like 55 HP so I am 100% sure this was sufficient.

Use the alignment tool provided with the kit and verify which way the clutch faces. Install the clutch and pressure plate and use threadlocker on the clutch bolts. Draw them down evenly and get them tight. Use torque specs if you want from a manual. As you are tightening, wiggle the guide tool and make sure clutch is centered.

This is what I have accomplished so far. My junkyard replacement trans is at the shop awaiting new axle shaft seals because I don't want any leaks at all. It is also going to get a bath in the parts washer and maybe even paint if I feel like throwing some "Kentucky Chrome" on it. I will post some installation pics possibly tomorrow or the weekend and let you all know how it goes.

There is so much more fun stuff to do to this car.

DangerDude · 06-12-2008, 06:56 AM

Mr. Mullett sir .. thank you for a great write-up! Pictures are worth a thousand words too! You done good! Please have a cold beverage of your choice (or six) and congratulations on investing in a great car we all love!
DangerDude

RossT · 06-12-2008, 05:52 PM

Thanks for taking the time to post. Others that are doing the same thing will find it helpful!

GM Line Rat · 06-12-2008, 08:55 PM

Nice writeup Mullet! Keep'em coming! BTW, The 91-94 manual Tranny removal process is nearly identical to the 95-2000

Swanny007 · 06-12-2008, 09:21 PM

AWESOME post! :-) :-)

Johnny Mullet · 06-12-2008, 09:47 PM

Here is the junkyard trans after cleaning it in solvent and adding a fresh coat of "Kentucky Chrome" on it................

During installation, I must have jarred the long, steel coolant tube and it's leaking at the back of the water pump (O-Ring?) so I gotta figure that out now. I hope it's nothing special and a regular O-ring from a kit woiud work. I tried to yank it out, but there must be another bolt besides the one holding the tab at the back of the trans.

chuck222 · 06-14-2008, 05:07 AM

On a '92 G10, 1 10 mm bolt holds the tube in. It's just a pain to get out. I went to the hardware store and got a O ring, lubed it up with silicon spray and installed it. Good to go.

Johnny Mullet · 06-14-2008, 10:38 PM

Here is the tube removed from the back of the water pump. I replaced the O-ring with a simple replacement from an O-ring kit. Car is perfect again!

way · 06-30-2008, 06:35 PM

Hey Johnnie, thanks for this!

Good point about the axle seals. They're not included in the ebay rebuild kit, or at least I don't think they are.

Did you have any trouble putting the trans back in, like getting the trans hooked back up to the motor? What did you make the bearing puller out of?

Trans looks great too. Maybe a dumb question but how did you clean it in the washer? Was it a spray type or did you have to dunk it? Looking to get something that works good.

Johnny Mullet · 06-30-2008, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Did you have any trouble putting the trans back in, like getting the trans hooked back up to the motor?

OMG what a pain that was! The hardest part was convincing the wife to get under the car on her back and slide the passenger side axle in while I man-handled the trans hanging over the driver side fender. It was easier with both mounts removed from the trans. That coolant tube gets in the way and next time, I would remove it. It literally took 45 minutes to get the trans to finally pop into place.

Quote:

[What did you make the bearing puller out of

I used a "Lady foot" prybar. It has a tapered end on one side and a prying foot on the other. I used a torch and heated the end and then pounded it into a small 90 degree hook that fits into the pilot bearing. I then used a hammer and whacked the other end until it popped out.

Quote:

Maybe a dumb question but how did you clean it in the washer

A standard large shop parts washer. It's a large, rectangular tub with a hose and a brush. You open the lid, turn on the pump, and cleaning solvent comes out the tube and/or brush. I set the whole trans inside and just ran the solvent over the trans while brushing it with the brush. I also removed the drain and fill plugs and ran solvent through the inside to flush out any crap.

way · 07-01-2008, 01:19 PM

LOL Congrats on the strong marriage!

I'm probably gonna try taking both the motor and trans out so I can put them together outside the car. I've got a hoist and most likely will be on my own. I love the Metro but I don't want to wrestle with it. It'll be easier with your post now.

Thanks Johnnie!

Feller · 07-18-2008, 11:00 PM

Hello Sir Johnny. I am just about to take the tranny out of my 90' Geo for a swap. My question is will it be easier if I leave the driver side fender off. I have another to replace it with but haven't put it on yet.

But before I actually do this let me tell you what mines doing right now. When I first got it it would not go into 1st well. If you eased out on the clutch it would pop in with a pretty good chunk. Sometimes it would just grind. It was also hard to gear down to 2nd from a higher gear. Now it just grinds when trying to put it in 1st and I have to take off in 2nd. Does this sound like a problem too big to mess with trying to fix? Should I trash the trans thats in it when or if I replace it ( I do have another ) or is it worth fixing for a spare? Thank you very much.

Johnny Mullet · 07-19-2008, 05:56 AM

The common issues with these transmissions are the brass synchros wear out ans 1st and 2nd are the first to go usually. I would pop the other in an consider rebuilding the other for a spare or for someone else.

Fender is optional. Mine was on

JetengineMech · 01-02-2009, 03:16 PM

sir thanks for the post i just did my 1994 geo metro 1.0 clutch.after it was all done and back together it sliped like it was a old 1. so now its all back on the ground again for the 2nd time HELP what could i have done wrong? i am so lost at this point . marrked everything and new gear oil and even changed a cv boot took me 2 days with no help and now i have to start all over again. dont want to make the same mistake again going back up this time HELP HELP HELP please

way · 01-02-2009, 05:18 PM

Hi Jet,

First thing to do is sit down, take a deep breath and list out the symptoms. How exactly is the car acting when you let the clutch out? How does it act when you try to put it in gear? Maybe a clutch adjustment is in order? I don't know if I can help but I'm sure someone else can if you list what's happening. I know it's hard to do but at this point you need to slow down and take a look at what's going on. Maybe search the forum for "clutch slipping" or something similar to get some ideas. Maybe it's happened before and you can get a tip or two. Are the symptoms the same as they were before you put the new clutch in?

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