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Old 07-06-2011, 01:06 AM   #16
Mr_Bill
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Just replaced MAFS on '98 GP GT 3.8L w/ 77K miles. Limped into local dealer 'cause I wasn't sure what was wrong ... engine hesitating & dying in traffic ... scary! $500+ later, I was back on the road. New GM part $360 & $150 for 1.5 hrs. labor. (Ironically, the GM part is made in Japan.) A sucker born every minute & I'm living proof.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:04 AM   #17
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Wow, the part is expensive (even retail it's around $200), but they socked you for the labor. I could change that out in our parking lot in about 1 minute. That includes opening the hood and taking the engine cover off. I would go back and complain about the labor charge, as that is REDICULOUS.

Here is a link to our tips and maintenance subforum with a picture of where the MAF is located.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=746374

As you can see, it's 2 screws and a wiring harness plug to change it out once you get the engine cover off (which consists of unscrewing the oil fill cap adaptor and removing it).
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Old 07-07-2011, 11:16 PM   #18
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

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Originally Posted by richtazz View Post
Wow, the part is expensive (even retail it's around $200), but they socked you for the labor. I could change that out in our parking lot in about 1 minute. That includes opening the hood and taking the engine cover off. I would go back and complain about the labor charge, as that is REDICULOUS.

Here is a link to our tips and maintenance subforum with a picture of where the MAF is located.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=746374

As you can see, it's 2 screws and a wiring harness plug to change it out once you get the engine cover off (which consists of unscrewing the oil fill cap adaptor and removing it).
Thanks, Rich, for your info and link. I do feel stupid and it does hurt! There should be laws against taking advantage of the mentally impaired. I did ask for the old part and when I got home I quickly spotted the identical unit under the engine cover. I saw where I could have easily replaced it myself. I take heart in thinking I paid for their expertise and tools to diagnose the problem quickly and resetting computer functions for proper operation. It's not exactly a common problem that the average Joe would know about. But, I learned a lesson I won't soon forget. Thanks again for the heads-up.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:45 PM   #19
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

NP Mr. Bill. I don't think you should feel stupid. This just goes to show that you can't trust a stealership (or many mechanics for that matter) to treat you fairly. Next time, drop in to AF first, and we'll be glad to point you in the right direction. that way you go in a little better informed so they can't do this to you again.

Oh, and forgive me, I forgot to welcome you to AF! Welcome!
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Old 10-31-2011, 04:31 PM   #20
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

I have a 2000 Grand Prix that stalled at a stop sign once and then was difficult to start. Today when driving 65 mph there was a noticable change in the engine, then the tac went to 0 and stayed there the traction control off light came on. The car continued to drive normally. I wonder if the car stalled and then restarted again because it was going 65? Does this sound like the Mass Air Flow Module? Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-31-2011, 04:33 PM   #21
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Sorry, it is a 3800 super charged engine and when the car was parked and restarted, everything was back to normal.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:04 PM   #22
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

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Originally Posted by DerickM View Post
I have a 2000 Grand Prix that stalled at a stop sign once and then was difficult to start. Today when driving 65 mph there was a noticable change in the engine, then the tac went to 0 and stayed there the traction control off light came on. The car continued to drive normally. I wonder if the car stalled and then restarted again because it was going 65? Does this sound like the Mass Air Flow Module? Thanks for your help.
I think those are the symptoms of a Crank Position Sensor going. If it does it again, I would consider changing it out.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:05 PM   #23
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Thank you for your help. From the net I gather it could be a Crank Position Sensor, my milage is 106K. Both times the car did this it was during a light rain; however with 6 months between stalls, it will be hard to pin down. From net infomation it looks like it might also be the Oxygen sensors, neither they or the CPS is something I want to attempt to replace myself. I did find other posts where it was either the Ignition Module or Mass Air Flow Sensor/module. Those I could replace myself. One poster said he disconnected the MAF and his car ran better without it, and it fixed his problem. Would this damage the engine if I tried this. Another had the exact same symptoms and the Ignition Module was his problem. Thanks for your help, I'm a student and don't have a lot of car repair money in the cookie-jar.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:40 AM   #24
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Derick, your issue sounds more like a crank position sensor to me as well. It's not technically difficult to replace, but the harmonic balancer has to be removed to access it. It requires both a special tool to remove, and a torque wrench to re-install the retaining bolt.

As far as your question regarding the MAF sensor. Many AF members have unplugged their MAF sensors to test with no damage caused. Just be sure to unplug it with the car off, not while running. If the car runs better with the MAF unplugged, chances are that it's the issue. When this design MAF starts to fail, it may not trip a CEL, but can still cause the hesitation/hard start symptoms described.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:38 PM   #25
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2000 Grand Prix GTP

I just bought a gtp a lil over a month ago. The car has 167000kms on it. I just put new after market head lights in. The person who did the head lights did a half ass job. Today im having that all looked at. The reason I am on here is because my car stalled on me at a red light. The rpms have bin real jumpy yesterday. The day I got my head lights put in is the day things started happening to my car. The day they got put in I went to start my car, and it started, but as I was in park the car started to shake. I didnt think much of it then. But yesterday it happened again and my rpms are all over the place when im driving VERY SCARY with the kids in the car. I parked my car and im having my gfs dad look at it today. I was told its either your fuel injection problem Or a bad ground wire. Remember this all started the day I had my head lights put in. I am really nervous because I really hope its not a big problem, I just bin stressing over this alot today. So im on here trying to get some answers or advice to what the problem could be, and how much money am I lookin at spending to fix the problem. Anyone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:59 PM   #26
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

. Iíve experienced kind of the same problem with my 00 Pontiac GP SE. My car would stall whenever I fuel up or come to a stop, especially on a hot summer day. I was advised by one of the moderator to try disconnecting the MAF sensor. By having the MAF sensor disconnected I didnít experienced any rough sluggish or stall after fueled up and or stops. Additionally, you might want to check your gas cap. The gas cap prevents vapors from exiting. My original gas cap rubber seal was brittle so I changed it and the problem is solved.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:34 AM   #27
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8 non-supercharged engine was randomly stalling when at operating temperature, at any speed, at any rpm, or idling. Ran well when it ran, but RPMs would randomly drop to zero and the engine would stall. Worsening occaisional no-start condition with no spark. All power in the vehicle remained on. Sometimes would start right back up and other times would not start for 3-30 mins.
No check engine light and so no codes to pull. No traction light issues which sometimes occur when the crankshaft position sensor is failing. I didn't want to change the crankshaft position sensor because, quite frankly, it sucks. Changed the ignition control module. No change. Changed plugs and wires with no change. Finally decided to change the CPS. After much research and finding conflicting information I compiled a procedure with just the truthful parts I found and it worked beautifully and the car runs perfectly now. The CPS on these cars fail. If you have decided to change yours out it is a $35 part and is DIY with the proper information, which follows, some ingenuity, and some mechanical apptitude:
Jack and secure car. Remove passenger side tire and the plastic wheel well. The clips will probably break, so buy new ones at a hardware store later. Number and remove spark plug wires from the ignition control module so the car won't start. Remove the center bolt (15/16th inch head) from the harmonic balancer. Easiest way to do this without a doubt is to postion a flat wrench on the bolt, rest the boxed end of the wrench on the car frame in front of the harmonic balancer, and tap the starter. Remember to disable the car from starting. Bolt will break loose. To pull off the harmonic balancer use a standard harmonic balancer puller, but you will need special grade 8 bolts and washers. 1/4-28 bolts, 3" long, one inch of thread is o.k. Place a short 3/8" extension in the crank bolt hole to protect the threads. Carefully, by hand, thread the specialty bolts through the puller and into the 3 holes on the balancer that seemingly have no threads. The threads are farther in and not visible. Make sure the bolts are straight, and inserted to an even depth into the harmonic balancer. Use washers or the bolt heads will gouge and pull through the puller. I turned my specialty bolts 15 quarter turns into the harmonic balancer. Turn the puller's main bolt that it is pushing on the 3/8"extension you placed in the crank bolt's hole. Balancer came right out/off. Remove crankshaft position sensor shield. Mine was plastic. Spread the teeth that connect the shield to its bolts with a small standard screwdriver and pull/pry just a bit. No reason to remove the shield from the bolt farthest towards the rear of the car. You'll be using thread glue on the main bolt when you put in in so you can use some of that on the shield where it connects if you mess up the plastic teeth on the shield a bit. Remove the old sensor's two bolts, and save the part to torture in fire later. Bolt in new sensor, replace shield. Line up the harmonic balancer with its cotter key deal and start pulling the balancer back on with a torque wrench. To keep the engine from turning open the smalll access hole to the flywheel on the bottom of the car (two bolts). Place vicegrips on the flywheel or wedge something in the teeth. Tighten your glued main bolt to 112 lbs plus 76 degrees. You now have a car you can count on and need not worry about it dying while driving down the road. I love mine now. Just wish someone would have made these all inclusive and accurate directions for me.
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:36 PM   #28
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

A couple more things. Since you're in there, replace the front crankshaft seal. Also, clean out the key slot in the balancer and put a fresh bead of silicone adhesive in it. This will prevent oil from sneaking out at this point.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:07 AM   #29
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

My 2001 Grand Prix Special Edition was stalling, sometimes in traffic, often at stoplights when idling. Was not tripping any codes. Check your fuel pressure, and if its less than 53 psi, suspect your fuel pressure regulator. My FPR had a leaky diaphragm, and replacing that solved my stalling issue.
Ron Jennings, Mesa, AZ.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:56 PM   #30
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Re: 2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

Good info, but this thread is dead for over 5 years.
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