higher mileage Mk 4 problems

[speedracer117]

I am 16 and looking to purchase a sporty car in the sub $5000 range. I like the Mk4 body style but the only ones i can find in my price range are over 100k miles. I would like to know some of the potential problems i could have with a car like this. Also its gonna be a manual trans. I am also looking at the late 90s Honda prelude.

[coolworld]

it's right you can not find in your price.anyways keep searching.

[speedracer117]

Originally Posted by coolworld

it's right you can not find in your price.anyways keep searching.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. What i'm asking for is information about major mechanical/electrical problems i could have with a Mk4 GTI with over 100,000 miles on it.

[Franco2112]

I would go Honda before VW. Parts seem to be available more readily if needed. Both with higher miles will require some maintenance just depends on what has already been done and at what mileage. Here's some common issues.
1. Timing belt replacement(A must!)
2. Spark Plugs plus wires
3. Coolant Change with Water pump
4 Air Filter
5. Oil Change
You will not believe how many 100k plus vehicles on the rode that have not had these services done.
Franco

[denisond3]

Except for the part about choosing Honda in preference to VWs, I agree completely with Franco2112. Plus I would have a look at the CV-joint boots, to make sure they arent starting to rip open.

[clutch-219]

are you lookin to buy a vr6 or a 1.8t? i bought my vr6 with 103k on it, and had only a couple problems. as they said above, timing chain needs to be done about every 80k. so see if thats been done yet. my control arm bushings where shot, but thats a pretty cheap/easy fix. the intake cross-over valve may need to be replaced if never before, and the vr6's are known for ignition coil failure. they are about 600 dollars to replace. other than that though, everything else is just minor/cosmetic problems. the 12v's are known to have have noisey lifters. nothing to really cause problems. just annoying. and cosmetic wise. the glove box door hinge likes to break, as well as the center council latch. and as far as the 1.8t's go, im not sure of their high mile problems. if you want to know, get on vwvortex.com and look around.

[SC2ner]

Here is just my two cents: (as said above at 100K, the timing belt is a must no ifs, ands, or buts)

Timing belt - Replace tensioner, rollers, hydraulic tensioner and belt. In addition to this, you should also replace the water pump and sometimes recommended t-stat. Use vw coolant only. You will surely pay for it if you don't.

Plugs are replaced at 40K and wires are when ever they need replaced. Keep in mind the 1.8T GTI does not have wires. They have coils. The updated part number is 06B-905-115-R... if it is not that, don't replace them, but you might want to keep a spare in the trunk. The old part numbers tend to die.

Oil filter - I recommend using the passat 1.8T filter. It's much much bigger. Though the car will need about a half quart. more oil. The number for that is 068-115-561-B

Be sure to check and make sure the ECT has been updated. If it's green, it has been replaced. If not get a new ECT that is green and also get the gasket and clip. I would replace the PCV valve as well just to be sure it has been changed at least once. The last thing you want is sludge.

They are good cars, but you need to take care of them. They are very picky.

[Ross Love]

For 1.8T's the individual coilpacks go out all of the time and leave the drivers thinking their car is going to explode, but it is a 30$ fix. Also make sure the timing belt has been changed. Check for cracks and such in lines in the engine bay, some of the parts are prone to cracking.

For 12v vr6's the chains need to be replaced around 100K, and the coolant distribution pipe on the front of the engine always cracks hence the name "crack pipe". The coilpacks do go out sometimes, but i dont know anyone who would pay $600 to have it replaced, the guy above got ripped off.

For 24v's the biggest problem is the slave cyl. and the coilpacks.

[SC2ner]

Originally Posted by Ross Love

For 1.8T's the individual coilpacks go out all of the time and leave the drivers thinking their car is going to explode, but it is a 30$ fix. Also make sure the timing belt has been changed. Check for cracks and such in lines in the engine bay, some of the parts are prone to cracking.

For 12v vr6's the chains need to be replaced around 100K, and the coolant distribution pipe on the front of the engine always cracks hence the name "crack pipe". The coilpacks do go out sometimes, but i dont know anyone who would pay $600 to have it replaced, the guy above got ripped off.

For 24v's the biggest problem is the slave cyl. and the coilpacks.

Where do you get your advice and numbers from? Each coil on a 1.8 is about 45 dollars. The single coil on a VR6 is over 600 alone. If all 4 coils are bad the car won't even fire.

Second, you do not replace a timing chain unless it's broke or is making noise. That is one of the biggest advantages of owning a vehicle with a timing chain. Call your local VW dealer and ask them how much a timing chain is on a w8. It's about $8,000 in parts alone. You are supposed to change a belt around 80-100K but never past 100K unless you like expensive repair bills. I don't want to sound rude, but there is enough bad information on the web as is. Don't add to it by saying things that are not true. Educate yourself first, the give advice.

[Ross Love]

Originally Posted by SC2ner

Where do you get your advice and numbers from?

Experience.

Originally Posted by SC2ner

Each coil on a 1.8 is about 45 dollars.

Really? Because I get them for $23 (newest revision N)

https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html

Originally Posted by SC2ner

The single coil on a VR6 is over 600 alone

Really? Because I get the OEM ones for $329 (or cheaper if i look around)

http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/pro...ber=021905106C

And, replacing the chains on a VR6 @ 100k-120k is rutine matinance, ask any certified VW tech.

Anything else?

[SC2ner]

Originally Posted by Ross Love

Anything else?

Absolutely. Where should I start.

1.) I highly doubt you have more experience then I do with these cars. Seeing as how I work for Vw. I also worked for Porsche and Audi.

2.) The timing chain only needs to be changed in a VR6 when the guide rails wear down.

3.) The 06B-905-115-N coil supercedes to a R, which is the latest and greatest version.

4.) I don't care how cheap you can get it online. Obviously you are buying older parts considering you did with the coils.

5.) You are talking to a Certified Vw Parts Expert.... I think I know what I'm talking about.

[Ross Love]

Originally Posted by SC2ner

2.) The timing chain only needs to be changed in a VR6 when the guide rails wear down.

A.K.A. 100-120k.

The OP was asking what higher mileage MK4 problems were, and you cannot say that the timing chain guides are not one of them. They fixed the guides on the 24v, but as for the 12v, they are a problem for HIGHER MILEAGE CARS.

If you told him that he shouldnt be thinking about the money that he will have to pay in 20k miles with a 12v with 100k on it, and original chain guides, then you are foolish.

Originally Posted by SC2ner

3.) The 06B-905-115-N coil supercedes to a R, which is the latest and greatest version.

Oh, these ones?

http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/pro...ber=06B905115R

I feel like I am talking to someone who works for the Stealership.

[SC2ner]

Originally Posted by Ross Love

I feel like I am talking to someone who works for the Stealership.

You sound like all of my other customers. The engineer, the back yard mechanic, the lawyer, the doctor.... the ones who do DIY. They all have one thing in common. They get upset when someone tells them they don't know anything when in fact they don't. You can go about your business now, and I will go about mine. There is no sense in me . It's okay to disagree. I buy stuff aftermarket as well. However it's because they are performance related. That's the only reason. I prefer not to spend my money on cheap parts. You get what you pay for. There is a reason that website purchased them cheaper then most dealers. I guess you'll find out at some point.

Seriously, I've been doing my job for a while now and I know these cars in and out. You can say stealership all you want. Perhaps your dealer robbed you... I know there are some out there who do. However I am not one of them. Neither is my entire dealership. I prefer that you don't group us altogether. That is how you make the mistake of thinking someone works for a stealership and FYI, the ones who do are normally the ones who don't know anything.

[Ross Love]

Fair enough, lets leave it at that

To the OP, good luck finding a car, make sure you bring it in to a shop if you cannot inspect it yourself or have a friend inspect it with you.

A couple things I would check when im looking at the car would be:

-Does the clutch feel good? Does the clutch pedal feel like it comes up fine?
-Does it idle fine (no funny sounds, or lumpy idle)?
-Can you hear any funny noises when you turn the wheel at a stop?
-Is there milky stuff in the oil cap?
-Does it shift smooth?
-Will it pull to redline fine?
-Do all the windows and power locks work?

You can even bring a VAG-COM and scan it when you go to drive it. And if you want to, have a shop do a compression test and if needed leak down test.