96 chevy 2500 cheyenne

[imakedacookies]

My reader is a volt meter, but it's broken so it doesn't show volts, only the light that shows power is present comes on anymore. Hopefully just seeing power would be enough to rule something out, or diagnose. But yes I had my fiance keep the key turned while I checked for power. I havnt pulled the cables off the battery but they are tight and appear clean. I don't have a whole lot of time available to devote to this as im a rancher that works sun up to sun down. I was thinking it could be a wiring issue in the steering column, the plastic cover is missing and you can see where keys or a key chain hit the unprotected connections and got burnt. I've known about that since I bought it but it hasn't come to me that maybe that would be it.

[imakedacookies]

My reader is a volt meter, but it's broken so it doesn't show volts, only the light that shows power is present comes on anymore. Hopefully just seeing power would be enough to rule something out, or diagnose. But yes I had my fiance keep the key turned while I checked for power. I havnt pulled the cables off the battery but they are tight and appear clean. I don't have a whole lot of time available to devote to this as im a rancher that works sun up to sun down. I was thinking it could be a wiring issue in the steering column, the plastic cover is missing and you can see where keys or a key chain hit the unprotected connections and got burnt. I've known about that since I bought it but it hasn't come to me that maybe that would be it.

[imakedacookies]

Maybe the starter relay? It's a cheap part and a bad one could cause the symptoms. At least in my head it could cause the intermittent problems and now no cranking or anything at all.

[imakedacookies]

My last 3 replys havnt worked for some reason so hopefully this one will. Anyway, my reader is a volt meter but it's broken so doesn't show exact volts, just that there's power present. I went ahead and pulled the starter. Starter and the solenoid tested ok. On the solenoid, the bigger bolt seems loose. I can put the nut on tight and that holds it in place well, but it's loose with no nut. Could that be it? If not I'm hoping it's the relay, if it's not that I'm sol because I just don't have the time to trade wires etc.

[silicon212]

The relay is actually a part of the solenoid. When the 'S' terminal is energized, this draws the solenoid plunger up to engage the bendix drive with the flexplate. Also, it causes a disk within the relay portion to engage terminals that supply power from the battery to the starter. If this disk is burned or pitted, which is likely, then you will hear it 'click' but not turn over the engine. If this is what's happening, replace the solenoid. If there is no 'click' when you turn the key, then make sure that power is getting to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid, WHILE the key is in the Start position.

If there is no power at the S terminal while the key is in Start, then check the bulkhead connector for the wiring harness (big bolt in the center, usually a 10mm), unbolt to separate the engine harness from the bulkhead connector and then reattach. Also check operation of the ignition switch as this may be the source of your frustration as well.

[kenman1717]

the ignition coil is common for cracking on models from 95-98, at least in my experience. so when its wet (raining out) or humid, the moisture gets into it and they won't start. try a hair dryer pointed at the ignition coil, or compressed air whatever is available for about 5 mins. when you say it won't crank when its wet or humid, does it turn over at all or just click when turning the key? And the extra fitting on the radiator under the fill neck is common on aftermarket rads, most of the time there is a cap and a clamp on them out of the box, its just a manufacturing thing so the don't have to change there machine when producing so many different radiators.

for some reason it didn't come up with a second page for me or half the replies about the starter testing, until after I posted so maybe my info is going to be useless.

[777stickman]

There is a "STARTER RELAY' in the underhood fuse block that sends 12v to "s" term on solenoid.

Try some basic trouble shooting:
1. When it won't crank, turn on the headlights and try again. Post back how the headlights respond.
2. Just for grins change 2 fuses. 1) In the underhood fuse block, IGN A Fuse #6 40a. 2) In the Instrument Panel fuse block, CRANK Fuse #8 10a.

[imakedacookies]

I'm gonna try that troubleshooting when I get home. Thanks

[imakedacookies]

Well guys and possible gals. After doing the troubleshooting, I got a little drunk... still am... but I found the issue in my more relaxed state. So, traced wires for 2ish hours, jiggling everything that looked iffy. And finally I came to the steering column. Where I mentioned previously that the plastic had been removed from my steering column and my keys were sparking on whatever that piece is below them. (I'm a bad mechanic, all I'm good for is throwing new parts at stuff) anyway, I turned the key and nothing. Then using my left hand I wiggled the wires and turned the keys and the beast roared once again... I repeated that cycles 3 more times and am 95% sure that's where my problem is. My new question is what is that part called and on a difficulty scale, remember I'm a rancher not a mechanic, how easy of a fix is that. Thanks y'all I have a car again... fairly urgent seeing as the wife left last week with the other car. But the good ol' vortec made me smile once again.

[imakedacookies]

Just in case someone has the same issues I did, I know this post was not the most informative as far as what actually was wrong. The part is the ignition switch, took me 30 minutes to change. Would have been 5 but the screws are very small 12 point heads so I had to use needle nose pliers and it was a long process. I can give a complete step by step for anyone that's curious on how to replace it.