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Old 07-29-2019, 06:24 PM   #1
parkerb
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drums con't to drag after panic stop

hi all, apologies if i've overlooked an old thread but my searches yielded nothing.

2000 windstar with 265.4k miles.

I had a panic stop incident on the interstate the other day. no impact, brakes were strong. didn't think anything unusual till i got home (~7 miles from incident). strong smell of hot brakes. found the culprit to be the DR drum. ~280 degrees F. PR was half that temp.

the entire rear brake assembly (not including lines) was replaced with ford parts back in oct '13 at 212k miles.

With every tire rotation the drums are removed to inspect and check on the auto adjusting assembly.

i could get the drum off, didn't see anything remarkable. Manipulated the adjuster back and reinstalled everything. decided to flush/ bleed the rears only, again nothing remarkable, color was good.

went for a 10 miles jaunt on the interstate and again hot DR. no strong smell, but measured temp at 250 degrees.

in looking on the ford service dvd doesn't show a stand-alone proportioning valve. guess it's built into the ABS unit?

Wondering if others have had this issue before? I hope this isn't what does the old van in.

tia,
parker
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:17 PM   #2
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop



i was wrong, there is something called a brake pressure control valve attached to the HCU behind the protective cover. no leaks on mine. drove about 150 miles yesterday and the lining must have worn away enough. i measured little temperature difference between the 2 rears once home.
tasca shows a XF2Z-2B091-AA in stock for $77 before ship. and then will the lines break? i think it's time to put to pasture.
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:35 PM   #3
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

Sorry you are having this problem, I've never experienced exactly these symptoms ... but the rear drums have caused me plenty of repair time over the years. I do my own repairs and try to stay on top of issues, but can say that I have spent more time than one would think necessary on the rear drums.

I use a synthetic brake fluid and try to bleed the system annually. It helps that my vehicle sees little road salt or other rust-makers. I use the looseness of the parking brake to indicate that rear brake service is due. If the parking brake handle must be lifted high to get sound holding, its time to remove the drums for a look-see-adjustment.

My experience has been, the self adjusters work well for a period, and then manual adjustment is required for good braking.

I remove the rear drums and thoroughly clean and inspect. I remove all parts from the backing plate, and sparingly lubricate all friction points w hi temp grease. I usually use a kit for all springs and hardware. The drum shoes are reused only if they look very good with plenty of wear material.

I always replace the cylinder assembly. Not only do I replace, but I disassemble and lubricate the new piston cups and springs with hi temp grease. I find that a sticking piston cup is the beginning of drum brake problems. One piston cup sticks/freezes, and the other cup is left to do all the moving. So I make sure that the piston assembly is easy to slide ...to and fro... in the cylinder before installation. If you buy new cylinders, be sure that they give you the correct diameter cylinder bore!

After reassembly of the rear brake and drums, after bleeding and adjusting, ... while the rear of vehicle is still off the ground.... I remove the drums again and have a helper slightly depress the brake pedal. I measure/ compare total shoe movement of shoes on both sides to see if comparable.

Good for about 50 k miles unless SIL does a lot of trailer pulling. (Ugh!)
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:48 PM   #4
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

... also make sure that the "play" is properly adjusted between the pedal linkage and the power brake booster.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:55 PM   #5
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

It sounds like something is sticking...
I am guessing from your post that the wheel cylinder has been replaced?
If not.....I would replace both rear wheel cylinders....they are not expensive.
IF you replace them, I found that the nut on the metal brake line on the back side of the wheel cylinder can stick, causing the brake line to turn when you turn the nut.
Easy solution.....Remove the 2 small bolts that hold the wheel cylinder to the backing plate and then you can spin the wheel cylinder on the brake line (with a wrench on the brake line nut).

As 12ounce mentioned, the automatic adjusters can stop adjusting after a period of time, but that seems to cause the brake to not work.....but, again, it seems that the one side is sticking for some reason.
I mentioned the wheel cylinder because it is something that is cheap....and can do this intermittently....and you cannot see inside it, like you can all the slide & pivot points in the mechanism for the brake assembly.
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:09 PM   #6
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

Hey guys, thanks for all the thoughts! I guess what I'm reading is that it's unlikely this proportioning valve is the culprit, whereas allowing a high amount to over extend the self adjuster? Because it's not the wheel cylinder causing the drag. The self adjust has to be rotated in. And it's done this 2x since the panic stop.
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:28 AM   #7
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

Hi all,
Yes it was the wheel cylinders. Both were rusted up. Also had to replace the passenger side hose also after twisting it while trying to loosen. I did not see your post Wiswind suggesting unbolting the wheel cylinder.
New springs, new shoes and so far so good.
I wasted alot of time giving Tasca parts opportunity after opportunity to come thru, yet they failed.

Question to 12ounce regarding the play? You mean the adjustment at the end of pushrod into the master cylinder?

tia,
Parker
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:57 PM   #8
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Re: drums con't to drag after panic stop

Yes, the adjustable screw plunger that actuates the master cylinder ... located at output end of brake booster. Easier to access with wipers and cowling removed ... with master cylinder loosened from booster, but brake hydraulic lines still attached ... creating a little tool space. And you will need the brake pedal pushed by a person, or an object, for better tool access to the adjustment.

I've read that if you eliminate all the "play", the brakes will not release ... so this is an adjustment to be made with all caution!

Good that you have discovered and corrected the wheel cylinders.

Be sure to lubricate every friction point inside the drums ... don't go crazy, wipe up excess. Make sure to lube where shoes slide on baking plate.

Good luck!
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