Rear Axle Break

[serge_saati]

Your axle is heavily damaged! I realize that the beam is hollow, not plain. It's why it's so weak. Probably Ford wanted to save in material cost. It's made in steel instead of fiber glass polymer. Motorcraft is cheapest that AC Delco.

I maintain my position when I say that weight is not applied on the beam when van sit on a flat surface. Because the spring are supported on the extremity of the axle beam, even more outside.

The axle beam is like a torsion bar. It plays a similar role as a stabilizer bar. Stabilizer bar doesn't support weight on flat surface without cornering.

[12Ounce]

This link may work better:
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http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Wi..._in_half.shtml
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[12Ounce]

OK ... 12Ounce (call me "the magnificent car-knack") is ready to tell all! LOL!

BTW, thanks gridman for showing us that great web-site. That web-site is for posting problems/complaints. This web-site is for posting advice/solutions!

I've read all the complaints ... looked at all the images ... posted on the broken rear axle for all years 1998-2003. Note:
(A)... all failures come after some years/miles. No failures are "straight out of the box". So something is happening long after manufacture! This is not a simple "part failure."
(B)... some failures are noticed only after the axle breaks in two. But some folks notice the failure very early on (a small crack), some a bit later (a larger/longer crack). So the failure is the result of a very slow process ... taking a long time!
(C)... most failures occur in the north (snow/road salt) country and it looks like corrosion is envolved. Looking at the images, I'd say the corrosion is "outside-in" ... or, something corrosive is dripping down onto the rear axle!

..... my final, cover-all, left-field guess: AC condensate is dripping on the rear axle causing rust and corrosion. This is worsened when there is road salt in use and the ac is "on" ... i.e., anytime the windschield defrost is "on". The condensate will be different amounts from car to car because of differences in tubing insulations.

... Of course, it may be something else other than condensate ... but I am pretty convinced something is dripping on rear axles ... in nearly the same exact location on the rear axle.

(ain't I purdy!)

[12Ounce]

POST SCRIPT(Or.... "old 12Ounce really likes to go out on a limb!"):

The rear axle failures have almost nothing to do with mechanical loading ... the rear axle is safely "overdesigned" for all driving circumstances! We will never see a rear axle failure that does not involve corrosion/rust!

This does not mean that some mechanical event will not take the last bit of life out of a very compromised axle ... but the corrosion, left unchecked, will do the job by itself!

A simple periodic cleaning and overcoating program is probably all we need. Perhaps some flashing to redirect the dripping! ??

[serge_saati]

The A/C condensation is under the expension valve in engine compartment, not at rear.

If I refer on the same website, I found some axle damages that are not caused by the corrosion. For example:



More info: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Wi...d_in_two.shtml

So yes, it can due to mechanical failure. As I said, filing the gas tank at full give a lot of load on the axle. It's over 185lbs of weight.

Ford don't know how to design anything. I already found a problem in a 25000 miles 2009 Ford.

[Cantolina]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

OK ... 12Ounce (call me "the magnificent car-knack") is ready to tell all! LOL!

BTW, thanks gridman for showing us that great web-site. That web-site is for posting problems/complaints. This web-site is for posting advice/solutions!<snip>

Good point...this site has been a source of great help and saved me lots of money in my short time here...

That being said, this thread is pretty useless...even WITH pictures

I just finished the isolator bolt TSB AND replacement of the coolant crossover tube, and the VERY NEXT DAY, the rear axle broke...

Wife was driving home from school at 30 MPH, and suddenly lost control...no accident, no injuries, but shook them up pretty good!

Yes, I live in the North, and no I not only don't load it with anything but soccer-playing kids, I ALSO have never jacked the vehicle up at the beam....

I'll continue to search threads, but does anyone have any insight/comments/suggestions for someone considering replacing this themselves?

I'm a pretty good wrench, but I have concerns about what I might find once I take it apart that would necessitate a tow to a garage mid-project....

Let's get to the tips, tricks and solutions, please, and thank you?

[12Ounce]

I personally would be inclined to go with a new part. I know its a lot of cost ... but also a lot of security, especially if you take the care to add several coats of rust inhibitor. My second choice would be to weld/repair/reinforce the broken one ... if the remaining axle metal seems good enough to be reused.

I don't think the labor required to do the task would be that difficult .... can't see paying someone else to do it.

[gridman]

Cantolina, if you replaced the intake isolator bolt, then you should have no problem replacing the axle.
You didn’t list the year or mileage of your van, but as you mention you live in the north (and I assume a“salted” state) the only problem you might encounter is possible rusted fasteners. (always a problem) The fasteners on my van were in pretty good shape and I was able to swap out the axle, replace the rear shocks and clean & inspect the rear brakes in less than 3 hours, on my driveway. All I needed was a floor jack, 2 sturdy jack stands, (make sure the van is safely supported) and basic (metric) hand tools.

As 12Ounce says, by a new axle from a dealer. I know it will cost you around $500, but a used one might already be rotting from the inside and you would have no way of knowing.

The axle failure does not seem to show up before 70k miles so a new one should last at least that long, but if you want to buy it more time, it wouldn’t hurt to follow 12Once’s advice and apply a couple of coats of rust inhibitor/primer to the inside of the axle tube (both sides of the bottom). This way there is less chance of water/dirt/road salt that gets in can rot it out as fast. (no, it is not caused by A/C condensation/water dripping from above)

While the rear is out, this is a good time to, depending on age/mileage, replace the rear shocks, springs, clean/inspect/repair the rear brakes, inspect/replace mounting bushings, and inspect/replace the rear bearings (hubs).

Then it’s also a good idea to get the alignment checked. (all 4 wheels)

I wouldn’t suggest going the welding route. If the axle tube rotted through in one place, there is a good chance the tubes strength is compromised in other places.

[capyclayt]

Better get it to a ford dealer quick. Just dropped mine off and picked up a free rental. maybe they will buy me out.

Originally Posted by kfordil

I just bought a 2000 SEL with 70K on it. Beautiful van, 1 previous owner, with a clean Carfax. I didn't know the history of issues with the Windstar until I looked it up on-line...oh well.

My concern is the rear axle breakage I've read about on other sites on-line. Seems like a major problem for a lot of Windstar owners. Is it as common as I've read? Any tips?

[gridman]

Those of you who are following this thread probably already know this, but after several years and over 230 complaints, the NHTSA, on May 15th, 2010, finally opened up an official investigation into the Ford Windstar rear axle failure problem. As I understand it, after the NHTSA opens an investigation, the manufacture has 4 months to supply documents about the assembly being investigated and make their case as to why there is no defect or to issue a voluntary recall.

In late August 2010, Ford announced it is recalling around 700,000 -1998 through 2003 model year Ford Windstars, registered in 21 winter-road salt states and Canada, for possible axle failure due to corrosion caused by trapped moisture and road salt.

Ford was to start sending out the recall letters on September 27th, 2010 urging owners to bring their vans in to their local Ford Dealers for inspection.

If upon inspection the axles were found to be OK, owners would be told they could take their vans home, but were instructed to watch for a follow-up letter to schedule bringing their vans back in to have reinforcement brackets installed on their axles, when the brackets become available to the dealers.

If the inspection does find signs that the axle is failing, the dealer will hold the van until a new replacement axle was available and will supply the van owner with a free loaner vehicle until the van is repaired, or Ford may also offer to “buy out” the van from the owner.

If the van was already repaired before the recall, owners are still urged to bring their vans in for inspection and reinforcement and may bring in the receipts from the repair or replacement of the failed axle and should receive a full reimbursement from Ford for those repairs.

I turned my receipts into my local dealer on October 15th and am awaiting my reimbursement; I was told it takes about 2 weeks. I received my recall letter the following week on October 22nd.

I told one of my wife’s friends 2 weeks ago that, even though she did not yet get the recall letter, she should take it in to her dealer to get it checked. Although she was not having any problems or hearing any strange noises, on my recommendation, she brought her van in early last week and is currently driving a new free Ford loaner car as the dealer found a hole and some cracks in the axle, it was only a matter of time or one good pothole before her axle would have broke. She was told it may take 3 to 6 months to get parts because of the backlog.

Unfortunately the recall notice did not come in time for a 28 year old father of 2 from Massachusetts as it looks like Ford may have had its first “recorded” fatality in a Windstar Crash due to rear axle failure on Friday, October 15th, 2010, in Whitman Massachusetts. The link to the story is below.

http://www.necn.com/10/15/10/Whitman-Mass-police-investigate-deadly-c/landing_newengland.html?blockID=332102&feedID=4206

[serge_saati]

I doubt that the father in this story is dead because of the rear axle break. It's just a supposition from the police.
I think is related to a brake fluid, or maybe P/S fluid issue. But more likely a brake fluid leak problem. Or maybe it's a murder? I mean, the brake lines can be cut by someone.

[12Ounce]

I'm inclined to agree with the police investigation. If the axle is broken, you don't need any other explanation.

Has anyone seen a new axle that Ford is supplying? ... does it have a different look?

[serge_saati]

Oh, I just realized that it has a video. Yes you're right, it's caused by the rear axle. It's split in 2.

[warrenj42]

Dumb question, but has anyone tried fabricating a stronger replacement that would stand up to the stress this van places on it? I am thinking some plate steel and a piece of pipe plus mounting plates for the wheels should do it. IMHO would take no more than a week to measure an old axle, cut pieces to fit, weld it all up, and mount the sucker. oh yeah and plates to hold the springs, always something... sheesh! LOL Just a thought peeps... we need to do something effective here and if Henry isnt up to the task.....

[wiswind]

I have used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator with very good results.
It sprays on just like paint, does well as a primer and is durable enough to be a "top coat", meaning, if you have a good surface, dry with no more than very light surface rust......it is all you need.
I got it at www.eastwood.com.
It is expensive, but it is very good stuff.
They also have a product that you can spray inside frame members as well as a "rust converter" that you spray onto rust, then wait about 48 hours and then spray over that with the Rust Encapsulator.