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Fiberglassing Fiberglasssing explained and the proper techniques on working on a fiberglass project. |
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05-02-2008, 07:00 PM | #1 | |
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Fiberglass dash
Hi i just wanted to know if there is any way i can use my dash as a mold but do not miss my dash up.
Is there any thing i could put on the dash so the fiberglass will come right off and my dash will be use again as it was I was told aluminum foil is this true thanks |
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06-03-2008, 05:14 AM | #2 | |
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Re: Fiberglass dash
Hello! i'm wondering where I can find anyone that builds custom fiberglass dashboards for jeep wranglers! a website or anything! thanks!!
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02-01-2011, 08:43 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Fiberglass dash
hi..i just want to ask if how can you clean the fiberglass...???
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03-20-2011, 02:46 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Fiberglass dash
Most times when we make a part or mold from an original it ruins the original.
You have many factors involved here with the dash. Is there a negative draft angle that will prevent the new fiberglass part from being demolded from the original? Do you really want to chance getting resin or fiberglass stuck to your good dashboard? If the answer is no, then you probably should not try this. The only thing i know of that will leave the dash in good condition after would be to vacuum bag the orignal dash with some stretchy vacuum bag film ( composite suppliers). then once it is vacuumed lay up your fiberglass on top of that. But again this will not work if you have any negative draft angles on the original part. If you are investing time and money into doing this, I would suggest buying a salvaged dash. |
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03-20-2011, 03:06 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Fiberglass dash
Are you trying to simply make a paintable dash cover using fiberglass products? Is it a one-off piece, or do you plan on making more than a couple of these?
On that salvage dash you can bondo it smooth, then primer it with urethane 2k primer or polyester primer like FeatherFill primer, then sand it smooth to a glass like gloss finish. How? Simple. Wet sand it with 400, then 600, 1000, 1500 paper. Then take a buffer ( not a car polisher as that is a different animal) with buffing compound to it until it shines. Careful not to burn through the primer with the buffer. Now use some pure carnuba or mold release wax ( 12 coats, waiting 30 minutes in between each coat) and lightly buff off each coat using a microfiber cloth. You know, those super soft car rags sold at WalMart and the Auto parts store. Take your time and do this waxing correctly and you will actually be able to seperate the new part from the waxed dashboard. Also the wax won't substitute for poor sanding and polishing so make sure the primer is glass smooth and has a nice shine prior. You need all three here: good sanding, good buff job, 10 to 12 coats of wax applied correctly. You'll be so happy when you can release your new part and see your handy work accomplished. I would also recomend using vinyl ester resin, not polyester. polyester is not as durable to the suns effects and seeing as this is a dash going behind a glass windshield the sun will be beating on that dash. Vinyl ester resin ( VER ) also shrinks less than polyester resin. Home stores, hardware stores, and automotive suppliers sell polyester. Composite supply stores sell VER. It is used the same way and mixing method as polyester. VER is also good up to 235F degrees! polyester is typically good up to 150F or so. Most new boats now are made with VER, sometimes refered to as "marine resin". All these resins you catylize with 2% mekp: 12 drops per 1oz of resin. |
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