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Old 11-24-2004, 06:51 PM   #1
BlazinUP
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can you make your own synth/dino blend?

does anyone know the ratio of blend.....synth/dino?
is there some special process....cant you just make your own?
iv heard many blends dont even have enough synth to make it worth the change.
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Old 11-26-2004, 05:24 AM   #2
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

Run conventional or synthetic, mixing them both yields very little gains at all.
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Old 11-26-2004, 05:33 PM   #3
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

so theres no benifit to running a synth blend?
is it a scheam to make more $$ for the oil comps?
i ask this cause im changing my oil sunday,.,. and am still undecided.
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:18 PM   #4
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

synthetic is better because it wont burn off like normal oil does sometimes and has other benefits that normal oil doesnt, but in the long run it wears down on rubber seals.
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Old 11-27-2004, 08:55 AM   #5
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Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinUP
so theres no benifit to running a synth blend?
is it a scheam to make more $$ for the oil comps?
i ask this cause im changing my oil sunday,.,. and am still undecided.
It is the same price and actually cheaper to run synthetic. Plus you get better protection.

You have to understand you can increase your change interval to 7000 or even 8000 miles with synthetic.

Heck, even today's conventioanl oil will go to 5000 miles without a sweat even in severe conditions.
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Old 11-27-2004, 08:55 AM   #6
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Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

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Originally Posted by JackDaniels386
synthetic is better because it wont burn off like normal oil does sometimes and has other benefits that normal oil doesnt, but in the long run it wears down on rubber seals.
Please don't post lies.

Synthetic does NOT wear down seals.
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Old 11-27-2004, 05:40 PM   #7
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

i understand the benifits of using full synth,,,,
what im still asking is why do they make blends....
are they worth using.....and are they all teh same?
and if you were to use a blend...could you make your own....
i know lots of questions for one post...but i need a few answers :0
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Old 11-27-2004, 05:55 PM   #8
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Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

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Originally Posted by BlazinUP
i understand the benifits of using full synth,,,,
What makes a synthetic better? Just to know the extent on your knowledge about it so I can add to it for you. I'm being perfectly sincere by asking this. No attitude or anything involved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinUP
what im still asking is why do they make blends....
They make blends to add a slight amount of the benefits of synthetic to standard conventional. But , unfortuneately, the benefits are very little.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinUP
are they worth using.....and are they all teh same?
Through testing, they have found them to be only slightly better than conventioanl and not even close to the benefits of full true synthetic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinUP
and if you were to use a blend...could you make your own....
You could, but there is really no point. A full synthetic oil change is technically cheaper seeing you can extend your oil change intervals to over 6000 miles wil perfect protection. Remeber, the 3000 miles oil change interval is a myth now and no longer really exists. The only people to push it are the quick lube places and the oil companies which both profit from people's ignorance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinUP
i know lots of questions for one post...but i need a few answers :0
I understand, and so did I when I was asking the same question years ago.
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Old 11-27-2004, 09:39 PM   #9
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

i totally understand what your saying...iv looked at the other posts about synth benifits...and would totaly do it if i was 100% shure id have no probs.
its just i hear from lots of mechanics that switching to full synth at 140k could be dangerous....
iv heard from a mechanic friend that for every engine thats gone to synth with high miles and worked fine...theres many that have leaks and other probs after.
his shop will do it but only after the customer signes some kind of waiver.
he sugested goin to a blend........
thats why i started this post for the most part.
i have to say i do think im goin to a castrol blend though my engine does seam to run excellent.
i appreciate your input and see you went to synth on your ride...with no probs......excellent and good to know.
its just after getting differnt oppinions i think i will blend....the benifits may not be as great....
but i think we agree there are some.

again thanks for the input
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:06 PM   #10
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

If you are not leaking oil now, you won't with a good synthetic.

I changed at 125,000miles and nothing but good things have come about.

Just use a true synthetic like Mobil 1 , Amsoil or Redline.

All the rest are NOT a true synthetic.
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:57 AM   #11
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Re: Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerLT
Please don't post lies.

Synthetic does NOT wear down seals.
Thanks BlazerLT, I read that and went "HUH?".

I have also switched over @ 120k.
So far I have taken two trips over 300 miles along with at least 40 miles a day and every thing is going great.

Let me ask this question - Why would synthetic oil cause a problem no matter what the milege is? Its oil that doesnt fall apart molecularly like organic.

I recommend everyone reads this http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
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Old 11-29-2004, 02:10 PM   #12
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Re: Re: Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoulesWinfield
Let me ask this question - Why would synthetic oil cause a problem no matter what the milege is? Its oil that doesnt fall apart molecularly like organic.
Can you clarify what you are asking for me.

Just so I can answer it correctly.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:08 PM   #13
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

The detergents in synthetic oil that are in there to help break down bad particles in your engine also slowly wear down on rubber seals, another additive is added to synthetic oil to attempt to prevent this called seal conditioners, and they work, but the detergent still slowly wears down on your rubber seals. Its not too noticeable on newer engines, but if you got say a engine with over 150k miles (with the seals already a little worn) and you decide to switch to synthetic, the detergents' slow wear on the already worn seals is enough to finally wear them to the point where you will actually have to go in there and replace them.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:29 PM   #14
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Re: Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDaniels386
The detergents in synthetic oil that are in there to help break down bad particles in your engine also slowly wear down on rubber seals, another additive is added to synthetic oil to attempt to prevent this called seal conditioners, and they work, but the detergent still slowly wears down on your rubber seals. Its not too noticeable on newer engines, but if you got say a engine with over 150k miles (with the seals already a little worn) and you decide to switch to synthetic, the detergents' slow wear on the already worn seals is enough to finally wear them to the point where you will actually have to go in there and replace them.
Complete bullcrap Jack, where are you getting this information from?

This information you are pushing is nothing but a bunch of old wives tales.

From Motorpoint.com.au

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it''s 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can''t be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don''t leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil''s lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.

Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can''t be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.

Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.

In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker''s warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dillution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today''s motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:41 PM   #15
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Re: can you make your own synth/dino blend?

If you are not leaking oil now, you won't with a good synthetic.


Synthetics don't cause leaks, but they do expose them. They get rid of sludge and grime that could have been preventing a leak from leaking as much, and then you got a worse bigger leak on your hands. This getting rid of sludge and grime could be good in some cases, but in most cases, this is just a problem that could have been prevented by just sticking to your regular oil, and could sometimes even ruin a perfectly good (but sludgy and grimy) engine.
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