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08-14-2002, 08:42 PM | #16 | |
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Fantastic job Chris, with your talents maybe you should think about going into business!!!!
Seriously though, damn fine and very informative 'how-to...' thread! But where do you get the styrene stuff from in the U.K? The link Jay posted aren't taking any more International Customers!!!! INTERNATIONAL??? PAH WHO DO THAY THINK THEY ARE? I'M BLOODY ENGLISH NOT INTER-BLOODY-NATIONAL!!!!!!! P.S Before anyone starts telling me that as nhc are in the U.S so to them I am an international customer e.t.c e.t.c... Please note the above rantings are a joke!!!!
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08-14-2002, 08:56 PM | #17 | ||
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08-14-2002, 09:07 PM | #18 | |
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EXACTLY JAY!!!!
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08-15-2002, 06:09 AM | #19 | ||||
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Quote:
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08-15-2002, 10:31 AM | #20 | |
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:alien2: hey thanks alot fly:licker: ill be looking foward to ur next how to's:frog:
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08-15-2002, 02:47 PM | #21 | |
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Oh yes, I guess I'll have to pop over to Nottingham one day with a big wedge of cash to spend!!!
Thanks Chris!
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08-16-2002, 12:29 PM | #22 | |
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Thanks for the info, maybe ill put it on my Subaru Impreza.
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08-16-2002, 05:43 PM | #23 | |
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Adding pipes
The purpose of this next stage is to help hide away the empty space behind the front intake of a curbside kit. So carrying this out depends on what model your adding your intercooler to and the size of the visable area.
To make the pipes i'm using aluminium tubing which you should be able to get from good model stores. The smaller size is 1.7mm and the larger size is 2.4 which makes it about right for the 2.5 inch size tubing on the full scale items. This tubing is quite soft and easily cut through with a No11 blade. The next few pics are self explanatory but if you've sniffed too much glue and/or forgot to wear your respirator today, then i will point out that two lengths of tube are cut as desired with the smaller diameter cut slightly longer. This is so that it will form a plug to slot into the intercooler. They are then simply cut in two after inserting one into the other. The reason for using metal is obviously for realism, the aluminium tubing can be buffed to a nice shine, so thats what i'm gonna do! I first gave the tube a light sanding with 1500 wet and dry then polished with Autoglym Paint Renovator but any polish will do. Polished tube below - This will eventually be the intercooler's new home. With the help of some mesh infront it will disguise the fact that no engine exists now that the opening is alot bigger. For the next stage i'll show how to add yet more detail to give it that extra realistic look, here's a sneak.
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08-16-2002, 08:02 PM | #24 | |
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god man , you are the "MAN" its a damn good thing that you got that camera of yours, but by the way is there any set time to when we can expect the other how to-s "blow off/intercooler"
Rui:smoker2: |
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08-16-2002, 08:08 PM | #25 | |
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Keep it coming Chris, I can't wait!
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08-16-2002, 08:34 PM | #26 | |
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Oh man oh man
I ran out today well drove to my local hobby and picked up the stuff you listed. They didn't have any metal siding just V-Groove so I picked that up. They also didn't have no styrene tubing so I picked up some metal tubing and whaaaa. ...you just posted that you are using metal tubing! !! Umm Fly are you using Jedi Mind tricks if you are it's all good! Keep the tips comin.:licker: |
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08-16-2002, 08:38 PM | #27 | |
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Awesome!
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08-17-2002, 12:50 AM | #28 | |
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Cool!
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08-17-2002, 04:12 PM | #29 | |
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Finishing touches
I used AlcadII Chrome to paint the intercooler, I can't recommend this stuff enough, its just brilliant!
I based this loosely on the Blitz intercooler - I say loosely coz i didnt convert the measurements from the real thing, only sizing it as desired but copying the basic design - so its only fitting to have the blitz logo on it. I took the logo from thier website, resized it a few times in a photo software package and printed onto some coated paper, then chose the best size. I laid masking tape over the image before cutting out the letters. This was just to add a little rigidity to the paper. I opted not to stick masking tape directly onto the part for fear of lifting off some of the Alcad and also because it might lose some of its form. The mask was made to be the same height as the part and markings were made in order to position it in the centre. Dont forget the closed parts of the B's! I lightly airbrushed it with flat black paint, it was only give a few passes to give it a subtle look like on the real thing. It may also be worth trying Tamiya Smoke or a Dark grey for this too. With the pipes super-glued in place i cut thin strips of tamiya masking tape to form the rubber band connectors (I'm not familiar with the correct terminology so forgive me if thats not what thery are called) which was wrapped around a couple of times. I applied thin CA to the ends to prevent them from lifting. I painted the bands with a flat mid blue. At this stage i applied a heavily thinned wash of satin black into the groves and over the weld seems to bring out the detail. To recreate the metal bands i used thin strips of Matt Aluminium Bare Metal Foil. To make the fasteners i used 15amp fuse wire, glued in place with a little more thin CA. The finished product. Hope you have enjoyed this and i look forward to seeing your versions added to your models.
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08-17-2002, 04:29 PM | #30 | |
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You can be sure you'll see one on my Supra and R32 models!! Thanks a bunch!! :flash:
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