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Old 07-01-2005, 10:10 AM   #16
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

ENGINE PARTS LOCATION

Q: Where is my PCV valve? I have a 1999 V6 Tacoma and I have no clue.

A: Try Autozone Repair Information - click on "Component Location":

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...epair_info.jsp

What Brand of Air Filter Performs Best?
Here is a study of a number of brands of air filters using ISO 5011:
http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

Power Steering Fluid Change
Here is a procedure from toyotanation with pics:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

Oil Weight Recommendation
Use 5W-30 oil under all conditions unless you live in Arizona, Southern Texas, Fargo, etc. There is a significant benefit to getting the oil flowing immediately after start-up.

Replacing Engine Coolant.
Make sure you get all the air out of the system before you cap the radiator. Run the engine at idle with the radiator cap off and add coolant as necessary to keep the radiator full of coolant. Once the engine reaches operating temperature and the coolant begins to overflow, replace the radiator cap and fill the coolant reservoir to the hot line. Check the coolant level in the reservoir after the next time you drive it and it has had a chance to cool down.

Valve Clearance Adjustment
In general, you don't have to adjust the valve clearances in these engines unless you have modified the valve train in some way. Leave well-enough alone unless you have a specific need.

Drive Shaft Boots Preventive Maintenance
Spray them with silicone lubricant (WD-40 has also been recommended to me) every time you are under the car for an oil change. This will prevent them from drying out and they will last forever. Cracked and leaking boots are common after 6-8 years without some treatment and replacing the half-shafts because of this is expensive.

Replacing Transmission Fluid
It is preferable to flush the transmission and replace all the fluid this way, rather than just draining the small amount of fluid in the pan. The vast majority of the transmission fluid is trapped in the torque converter and the valve body and is not changed by draining the pan only. I have been told that it is unnecessary to change the filter in the transmission. It is wire mesh and only meant to keep chunks of stuff out of the valve body.

If your serious about transmission maintenance, try this link for parts and transmission repair manuals:

http://www.drivetrain.com/autotransoverhaulkits.html

General Maintenance
Always use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners to the recommended torque value. A pair of torque wrenches (one large and one small) are indespensible for auto maintenance, particularly when you have an aluminum engine/head. Two torque wrenches I recommend (or their equivalent) are:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&vertical=TOOL
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944593000

These are micrometer-style torque wrenches. You dial in the required torque and then the wrench clicks strongly when you exert the force necessary to tighten the bolt. To keep their accuracy, store them with the torque setting on a very low value. You can pay alot more for better wrenches, but these are more than adequate. Evenness of torque around a bolt pattern is more important that the actual torque value of the pattern.

Don't extend the lever arm of a torque wrench with a crow's foot or other device. If you make the socket end of the torque wrench longer, you increase the torque applied to the bolt. If you have to use a lengthening adapter, use it at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench shaft.

Also, always make sure you are tightening a bolt or nut with lubricated threads (oil for steel hole, antiseize compound for aluminum hole). Bolts always have to go into clean holes. Run a flat-bottom tap into all holes that won't accept a bolt hand-tight to the bottom. Follow tightening sequences when provided - tighten gradually in three steps 1/3, 2/3, then recommended torque over entire bolt pattern.

Tighten bolts in a bolt pattern only loosely until all the bolts have been inserted and are threaded into the holes. If you tighten some down prematurely, it will be very difficult or impossible to insert all the bolts and you will have to loosen the tight bolts anyway.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:43 PM   #17
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information

GETTING RID OF BINDING STOCK ANTENNA

Q: My antenna won't go down the way it should. Is there a cheap fix for this?

A: Some guys install a Honda S2000 antenna in place of the stock one.

See this article:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t65507.html


HAZY HEADLIGHT COVERS

Q: My headlight covers are so hazy, I had to buy HID lights just so I would have enough light to drive buy. What can I do to polish them?

A: See the solutions posted in this thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=230436
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:52 PM   #18
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

KNOCKING, THUMPING, OR CREAKING SOUND IN REAR/FRONT WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS

Q: I have been dealing with this weird noise for some time. I can hear the noise sounds like two pieces of heavy metal hitting each other. It sounds from the right rear area. It happens more often when speed is low say 30 mph on rough road. On highway, it does not happen as often. Anyone know what it can be?

A: First thing to check is your sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings. What causes the bushings to wear is when water and salt (or just water) gets into the bushing, it corrodes the surface of the sway bar and the surface becomes rough. This wears away the bushing. To get a long-term fix, you should polish the sway bar with a strip of emory cloth where the bushing rubs and then replace the bushing with a new one. Then the sway bar is smooth and the fix will last longer.

The sway bar bushings are cheap to buy from Toyota ($10/pair) and easy to replace - 30 min at most. When I have bought bushings from Toyota, they even gave me a strip of emory cloth to polish the bar with.

Here's a thread on the subject:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...3&page=1&pp=15
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Old 07-10-2005, 08:10 PM   #19
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

REBUILDING YOUR OWN ALTERNATOR

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...270&forumid=10
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...r+brush+holder
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

Thanks to SydneyCanada for the above information
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:47 PM   #20
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

MOBILE ELECTRONICS/STEREO INSTALLATION

Q: Where can I find information on how to install a new stereo in my Tacoma?

A: The Install Doctor is a good source:
http://www.installdr.com/
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Old 07-13-2005, 12:10 AM   #21
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

TECHNICAL ARTICLES ON TOYOTA ENGINE SYSTEMS
EXTENSIVE AUTOMOTIVE INFORMATION LINKS

Q: Where can I find technical information on my EGR system? I want to modify it and I'd better understand what's going on there first.

A: A good source of technical articles and automotive information links is Kevin Sullivan's Autoshop 101 site:

http://www.autoshop101.com/

Here are the titles of his technical articles followed by direct links to the articles:

Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Electrical

Electrical Fundamentals with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdf

Electrical Circuits with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h2.pdf

Electrical Components with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h3.pdf

Analog vs Digital Meters with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h4.pdf

Wire, Terminal and Connector Repair w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf

Automotive Batteries with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdf

Toyota Starting Systems with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h7.pdf

Toyota Charging Systems with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf

Understanding Toyota Wiring Diagram.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h09e.pdf

Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h10e.pdf

Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h11e.pdf

Semiconductors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h12.pdf

Transistors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h13.pdf

Computers / Logic Gates with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h14.pdf

Overview of Sensors & Actuators w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h15.pdf

Electronic Transmission #1 - Operation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf

Electronic Transmission #2 - Diagnosis w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf

Shift Interlock System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf


Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBDI (pre-1996)

EFI#1 EFI System Overview.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h20.pdf

EFI#2 Air Induction System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf

EFI#3 Fuel Delivery & Injection Controls.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

EFI#4 Ignition System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h24.pdf

Engine Controls #2 - ECU/Outputs.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

Engine Controls #3 - Idle Speed Control.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf

Engine Controls #4 - Diagnosis.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf


Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD-II (1996 and newer - some '94 and '95)


Sensors#1 - Mode Sensors and Switches.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h31.pdf

Sensors#2 - Thermistors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h32.pdf

Sensors#3 - Position Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf

Sensors#4 - Air Flow Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

Sensors#5 - Pressure Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf

Sensors#6 - Speed Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf

Sensors#6 - Oxygen / Air Fuel Sensors w/ques.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf

Sensors#8 - Knock Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf

Ignition#1 - Ignition Overview w/questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf

Ignition#2 - Electronic Spark Advance w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h40.pdf

Ignition#3 - Distributor / Distributorless w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h41.pdf

Fuel System#1 - Overview with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h42.pdf

Fuel System#2 - Injection Duration w/ques.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h43.pdf

Fuel System#3 - Closed Loop /Fuel Trim w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf

OBDII#1 - Overview of On-Board Diagnostics.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h46.pdf

OBDII#2 - Serial Data.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h47.pdf

OBDII#3 - Data Interpretation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h48.pdf

Emission#1 - Chemistry of Combustion.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h55.pdf

Emission#2 - Emission Analysis.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf

Emission#3 - Engine Sub Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h57.pdf

Emission#4 - Closed Loop Feedback Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h58.pdf

Emission#5 - Electronic Spark Advance.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf

Emission#6 - Idle Speed Control Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h60.pdf

Emission#7 - Exhause Gas Recirculation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

Emission#8 - Evaporative Emission Control.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

Emission#9 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf

Emission#10 - Catalytic Converter.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h64.pdf

Emission#11 - Secondary Air.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h65.pdf


Don't ignore the information and links in the "Automotive Links" section. Also, the "Online Bookstore" is useful if you want to get ASE certified.
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:41 AM   #22
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

PROPELLOR SHAFT GREASE FITTINGS

Q: How often should should I lubricate the driveshaft grease fittings on my Tacoma?

A: Driveshaft/propeller shaft lubrication interval is listed in the Toyota scheduled maintenance guide for your truck. 5,000 mi. or 6 months for 2004 models. Applies to Prerunner and all 4 X 4's.
For lubrication procedure and the type grease to use see;
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maint...html#driveshaft

DECKPLATE MOD TO AIRBOX
How do I do the deck plate mod and what does it do?

The deck plate mod is done by installing a marine type deck plate in the the air cleaner box to allow more inlet air for higher rpms. It should be good for a little extra horsepower. References for installing a plate:
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/jnburtman/deckplate.html
http://customtacos.com/tech/index.ph...x_v2&id=85&c=5
http://www.wattora.com/mods/deckplate/

One source for deckplates:
http://tempress.com/hatches.cfm

INSTALLING A SUPERCHARGER FOR 5VZ-FE
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=408217
http://www.toyotaworld.com/trdsupercharger.html
http://www.gadgetonline.com/4run.htm
http://www.trdusa.com/Default.asp
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Old 08-13-2005, 10:58 PM   #23
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

MODIFYING YOUR E-LOCKER SO THAT YOU CAN USE IT IN 2WD AND 4WDHIGH

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/greywire_mod/
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Old 08-15-2005, 11:46 PM   #24
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

WINDSHIELD SCRATCHES

Q: My windshield has 2 wiper marks from crappy wiper blades. how can i get rid of them? Is there some kind of cleaner that wil bring them off?

A: If you can feel them with your finger nails they will not come out by cleaning, If not too deep you may be able to get the out with some very fine rubbing compound, some people use tooth paste. Do a Google search and see what come up. Be advised, it will require lots of time and effort and still may not work.

Q: Thanks for the reply. The marks are very light. I have some stuff called Plastix from Meguiers. It does an excellent job on plastic getting scratches and oxidation out. Do you think that will work?

A: It shouldn't hurt anything to try the Plastix. If that doesn't help here is an article that describes how to polish out scratches.

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...0101wp&print=1
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:19 PM   #25
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

PROGRAMMING TRANSPONDER IGNITION KEYS

Thanks to Sparky at talkaboutautos.com

Q: How do I program a transponder ignition key for my Toyota/Lexus vehicle?

A: 98-01 Toyota/Lexus: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the ILCO key company catalog, and a Toyota maintenance manual I have seen, is as follows: Simultaneously depress and release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time (one instruction kind of hints that you should hold the pedals down while you insert the master key, the next step). Insert the master key in the ignition, but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times. Then within 20 seconds press & release the brake pedal 6 times. Within 10 seconds remove the master key, and insert the new key. Within 10 seconds press & release the accelerator 1 time. The security light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Remove the new key, and depress & release the brake pedal 1 time.

02 TO EARLY-03 Toyota/Lexus: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the key company catalog is as follows: Make sure all windows and doors are closed, and insert the master key in the ignition. Cycle the ignition key ON/OFF 5 times and leave the key in the lock. Open/Close the driver side door 6 times. Remove the original key and insert the new duplicate key, BUT DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON. The theft light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Do not laugh while executing this sequence.

MID-03 TO 2004 Toyota/Lexus: Currently there is no (easily available) programming sequence that the customer can use. A new key is used (Toyota key part number 89785-60160) that has a small letter "o" stamped on the brass part of the key up near the handle. Apparently, only the dealer can program in a new transponder code into the ECM via the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) computer.

ACE hardware and others, sell the non-"o" key for much less than $75, but you have to program the ECM in the car yourself. Camelback Toyota charges $150 to supply & program a key for a Mid-03 Toyota/Lexus. Larry Miller Toyota sells the key for $75 and programs it for free. Bell Road Toyota sells the key for $75, but it's not clear if they charge for programming. If the ECM is truly programmed through the OBD, then I think it is only a matter of time before somebody like Pep Boys or Autozone will do it too!

According to the ILCO catalog, all of the key numbers programmed into a 98 to Early-03 ECM (other than the number of the key you are using) can be deleted by using the following sequence: Simultaneously depress & release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. Insert a working key into the ignition but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds depress & release the accelerator pedal 6 times. Within 20 seconds depress & release the break pedal 7 times. The security light will flash indicating that all key numbers, other than the one being used, have been deleted from the ECM memory. Within 10 seconds remove the key from the ignition switch. This is now the only key that will work.

Brian Edit: Here's a link to the ILCO catalog:

http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key_systems...16-E-0205].pdf

An alternative to reprogramming the ECM when you have no programed master key:

Stefan: "I called the parts department at local dealership I usually get parts from (I own a custom body&paint/collision shop) and they told me, that there is a way to get TOYOTA CORP. to actually replace the ECM free of charge, all I have to pay for is two keys @ $41 list price and the labor to swap out the ECM.

The car has to have original ECM it came from the factory with, simple as that!

I called TOYOTA Corp, they asked a few questions and ran a VIN# in their sytem and said my car falls under that category for a FREE ECM!! WOOT!. They said it will take 3-5 business days to mail/ship the ECM to the dealership of my choice, once it gets there, dealership will call me to bring/tow the car in and all I have to pay is for the labor to swap out ECM AND the cost for 2 new keys!, I will update you on the outcome of this situation."

Stefan


INFORMATION ON TRANSPONDER KEYS AND PROGRAMMING THE ECM WHEN THERE ARE NO PROGRAMMED KEYS AVAILABLE (yes, apparently it is possible):

http://www.locksmithcharley.com/transponder.html

Locksmith Charley has the following instructions posted:

These procedures are modified from those published in other forums after several experiences with cars not programming up in an efficient manner. This procedure was developed with the kind assistance of Randy Mize who provides technical support for ILCO’s SDD machine. I also received valuable input on this subject from Mike Labar.

Of primary importance is determining if you have a key that is enrolled in the car’s computer as a “master” key or a “valet” key. The procedure for making this determination is:

1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.

2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:
(a) Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
(b) Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
(c) Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key

If you have only a VALET key or an unrecognized key then the ECM will have to be reprogrammed or “flashed” before you are able to add any more keys to the vehicle. The ECM reprogramming (flashing) service can be provided to you by LOCKSMITH CHARLEY (1-602-230-8888 or 1-800-313-5397) at the shop at 2308 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix AZ 85016. If you are not local to the Phoenix area you can ship the ECM to us and we can flash it and send it back to you the same day we receive it.

Once you have determined that you have an enrolled MASTER key you may proceed to either:
(a) delete all other keys from the car’s computer
(b) add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer.
(c) add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer.

PROCEDURES FOR PROGRAMMING

A - Delete all keys other than present master key
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Within 15 seconds press and release the gas pedal 6 times.
9. Within 20 seconds, forcefully press and release the brake pedal 7 times. The Security light will blink.
10. Within 10 seconds, remove the master key. All other keys should be deleted from the car’s computer.

B - add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

C - add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

This information is presented to you as a public service of:
LOCKSMITH CHARLEY
2308 E. Indian School Rd.
Phoenix AZ 85016
(602) 230-8888 / 1-800-313-5397

Here is a discussion of the various types of keys:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176485
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:57 PM   #26
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE APPLIED

Q: Just purchased a 96 Tacoma 4x4. Has a few problems that I am working through. Have one that is a real stumper for me. The brake lights work fine during normal daytime driving conditions. When the headlights are turned on the brake lights are on. I have check the wiring and have found nothing shorted together. I see a intergration relay in the wiring diagrams and was interest if anyone might know if this relay sticking would cause my problem. Thanks for any help.

A: The bulbs are probably installed incorrectly. You may have single filament bulb in a socket meant for double filament bulbs, or the correct bulbs may have been forced in backwards.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:31 PM   #27
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

RECOMMENDATIONS ON INCREASING GAS MILEAGE

Q: What can I do to increase my gas mileage?

A: Make sure you are using a fresh air filter. You may consider getting an oil-wetted filter from TRD or AMSOIL. They are very efficient, reusable after cleaning and re-oiling, and somewhat expensive. They are free-flowing compared with efficient paper filters and you can clean them as often as you like. I clean mine every 10k. The TRD filter is oil-wetted cotton and the AMSOIL filter is oil-wetted double layered plastic open cell foam.

Tweak your AFM (on engines that have them instead of a MAF meter) as shown in:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...51&postcount=8
There is probably an optimum setting for gas mileage.

Some people get additional mileage from opening up the air box (deckplate mod or removing the wheel well elbow from the airbox).

I don't believe in cold air intakes. They are a waste of money IMO. Maybe some vehicles have poorly-designed intake systems and are helped by almost any mod. Yours is not one of them.

Your engine may get better mileage with higher octane gas, particularly if you do alot of highway driving. Use higher octane gas for a few tankfuls when you are on a trip, keeping track of the mileage and gas used, and see if that makes any difference. If not, don't waste your money. Say the price of 87 octane is 30 cents cheaper than 89 octane and you get 20% better mileage (from 15 mpg to 18 mpg) with the 89 octane. If the price of gas for the 87 octane is $3.00/gal, then you are paying 10% more per gallon, while saving 20% in gasoline usage. This is a good bargain. If you break even, I would still use the higher octane gas. You have to do the math and the experiment on your truck. At some price, it will be worth it for some percent increase in mileage. In all honesty, you probably won't see a difference in mileage between the octanes, meaning you should use 87 octane. However, it doesn't cost much to try and you should know about it if your truck derives a benefit from the higher octane gas.

Keep an eye on your ignition timing, idle speed, and wheel alignment. A high idle speed will cost you, as well as retarded ignition timing or bad alignment.

Buy road tires. Mud stompers will cost you. I believe that the more noise the tires make on the road, the poorer gas mileage they will give you. Fill the tires with 4-6 more psi than that recommended in your door label. Low tire pressure will cost you. Don't fill the tires above the maximum psi labeled on the tire.

Lowering your truck a couple inches will give you better mileage on the highway.

Off-road driving will cost you. 4WD usage will also cost you, on- or off-road.

Installing manual hubs will make some difference. Each truck will be different in this regard. Manual hubs will keep you from having to rotate the half-shafts and a part of your front differential.

Keep your injectors clean with a fuel additive periodically.

Get any "Check Engine" light problem immediately. Many times you engine will default to a standard condition when a sensor goes bad. It gets you where you're going, but it is far from optimum as far as engine efficiency goes.

Exhaust headers and lower restriction cat converters and mufflers will help your mileage to varying degrees. Buy stuff that you find has helped other owners of your vehicle.

Fill your transfer case and differentials with 75W90 synthetic gear oil. Leave it in longer to partially offset the additional cost. The thicker the gear oil, the more drag on the truck. Lube your propellor shafts often for the same reason with Moly grease.

Use 5W30 oil in your engine - possibly 0W30 or 5W20. I have heard they work fine, but I have not tried them myself. Those lower viscosity oils will certainly make a difference in your gas mileage.

For additional hints and suggestions, see the following links:

http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/r...fuelsaving.asp

http://www.performancempg.com/lubric...el_mileage.htm

(information on the above two sites authored by ctelsa)
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Old 10-20-2005, 09:32 PM   #28
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

FIXING PAINT CHIPS AND SCRATCHES

Materials
1. Small bottle of the proper Toyota touch up paint and Toyota clear coat, if needed (Toyota metallic finishes are clearcoat; a non-metallic colors were not).
2. DuPont PrepSol (available from autobody supply).
3. Disposable touch-up microbrushes made by ProTouch (from an autobody supply).
4. 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut (from an autobody supply).
5. Lacquer thinner to keep brush clean.
6. Wet-dry sandpaper: 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and 2000 grit (there is a new product out that is an alternative to wet sanding for use in auto touch ups - check it out at http://www.langka.com).

Procedure - Scratches
Use this procedure for long scratches and for large chips.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the full-length of the scratch. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the length of the scratch.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Now wet-sand the touched up surface with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. Sand in a front to rear motion since that's the direction the car is painted with, hence: you're going with the grain of the paint. Sand until you have eliminated the mound and any touchup paint outside of the scratch.
6. Clean area thoroughly and let dry.
7. Take a clean microbrush and begin to apply the clearcoat to the area. Don't be afraid to be liberal with it and don't try and keep the clearcoat within the scratch area. Apply approximately 3-4 coats, again until there is a small mound. Let it set and completely dry for 4-5 days.
8. Now, wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the clearcoated scratch blend into the rest of the paint - thus disappearing. (It produces a very gratifying feeling!)

Procedure - Chips
You can use this abbreviated procedure to fix the many small chips on the hood and front fascia.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the chip. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the expanse of the chip.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the touch-up paint blend into the rest of the paint - nearly disappearing. The repairs are not noticable to passersby, and look much better than the chips did.

Note: The clear coat on the flexible plastic parts doesn't rub back as well as the rest of the paint, probably due to the flex agents in the paint..

Adapted from a post to VetteNet by Doug Johnson, and to the Grand Prix mailing list by Paul Berndt.
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:21 AM   #29
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

TOYOTA PARTS CATALOGS

Thanks to SydneyCanada for the following post:

There are several free online Toyota EPC catalogs that you can download that are amazing and I use them all of the time prior to a repair or when trying to cross reference parts:

Here is a post fellow poster (Todd) who posted it on another 4-Runner/Pickup discussion site about 4 years ago:

"There is a newer version of the EPC available for download.
Similar in size to the older version (254MB and 220MB zipped files)
I have them on my personal FTP server (not always running), and they are also on another FTP server.

Address and login for mine:
151.203.109.45 Port 21
Login: t4x4pickup
Password: t4x4pickup

Address and login for the other (usually running 24/7)
ftp.lawvision.net
User: upload
Pass: upload

Apparently they cover 1988 and up vehicles (I haven't unzipped mine yet).

Feel free to upload and download on mine.

Enjoy!
Todd E:zoddoo@hotmail.com"

Here are other places to download the free Toyota EPC catalogs:

http://www.yankeetoys.org/docs.htm
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/epc.htm
http://turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/epc.htm
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...load_links.htm
http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Earnout
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/epc
http://membres.lycos.fr/doc4toy4u/se...EPC_TOYOTA.zip
http://thepiratebay.org/details.php?id=3355606 (DVD)

For version 1/2002 the passwords are:

Europe 02052311
General 02032511
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 02071608

Here’s the codes for the 01/2002 disks:

Europe 02022004
General 02022212
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 01121209
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Old 12-27-2005, 01:42 PM   #30
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Re: Tacoma FAQs and Information

OBDI Diagnosis:

If your car is a '96 or newer, you need an OBDII code reader. If your car is '94-'96, then you have to check under your hood on the emissions sticker to tell if it is OBDII or OBDI. If your car is '93 or older, then it is OBDI.

For OBDII codes, check:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...2&postcount=15

For OBDI procedure, see the following link:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf

The codes are:
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow
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