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Old 03-18-2008, 02:05 PM   #46
micosan
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I just want to add my thanks to all the posters to this thread. I've been following this thread for a few years and feel confident I'm capable of doing this work and also knowing what parts are needed before hand to complete the work because of all the information posted. I'm sure many more people have read this thread and thought the same. Thanks
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:38 PM   #47
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Starting this job next weekend, and wanted to clear something up.

I have heard several recomendations about what to do with the intake bolts wondering wat to do in regards of loctite and pipe dope.
My coworker said to place loctite on the bolts, let it set for an hour..then pipe dope them before final torquing...doesnt make sense really.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:59 PM   #48
bearcatdon
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

No pipe dope is required being that none of the bolts go through water jackets. Clean your bolts, put blue serviceable loctite (no wait time required )and torque down to the new specs.
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Old 06-26-2008, 02:31 PM   #49
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

So I managed to crack through the screwhole where the upper and lower manifolds connect... I suppose I should have been more careful taking the upper manifold off in the first place, I didn't take the bolts off in the right order. Oh well lesson learned...

I'm going to order a new LIM, I *just* replaced the gaskets and fuel o-rings, haven't even started the car yet! Do I need to do this again, ie are they one-time-stress components? Because that's kind of lame : ) Alas at least I'll be good at it this time!

Also what's up with this gaskety-thing where the heater inlet pipe goes into the thermostat housing? Does that need to be replaced when you disconnect the two?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-27-2008, 09:43 PM   #50
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dedwinson
First off, get the Felpro gasket set, and it probably is the more expensive set. There are a few reasons. First, the gasket is a metal gasket with some sort of neoprene around the critical areas. Second, my brother-inlaw is a mechanic who has never had one return to the shop due to leaks using this gasket, and he has used it on his own cars as well.

The Felpro set comes with nearly every gasket and O-ring you need to do the job. We did have to go to the dealer on a quick run to get an O-ring for the press fitted heater tube, but that was only a buck.

We also used an RTV sealant that is used in the shop. Apparently is is much better than the stuff recommended.
I used the Felpro PermaDry Plus Gasket set. Unfortunately, the Upper Plenium Gasket was cardboard like material, which if not carefully could easily break. I installed it in my 2000 Malibu on 12/06 at approx 148K miles and still holding at 173K as of 6/27/08. Definitiely used RTV, reused the intake bolts that came on the car. When I removed the spark plug wires, I only removed from the row that was towards the radiator, the spark plug wires towards the firewall, I left them connected to the spark plugs. Instead I only unplugged the electrical connectors on the side of the ignition coil module pack, then remove the bolts holding the ignition coil module pack and just set it aside.

While I was at...
Replace the thermostat, because of age and easier to get to, since the manifold was removed

Replace the o-ring that drives the oil pump shaft, usually known to go back and a common place for oil leaks.

Tips I learned from other people.

The stud that holds the ignition coil to the rear valve cover can be removed, which helps remove the rear valve cover, I did not do this however.

Someone was able to remove the fuel injector rail from the intake without disconnecting the line. I believe that you would only need to remove the nut that holds the fuel line clips to the rear of the engine
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:23 PM   #51
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Hello every, body I just wanted to say that I only became a member of A.F. 4days ago and already I've learned more that I can tell you in this short time thank you. I have a 2002 venture and had lots of problems with it but I read some of the threads and managed to fix a all of the problems again thanks to you guys. One problem that I would like to share with you all and that is I was having a over heating and leaking coolant problems. I did all the usual stuff thermostate, temp senser, plugs, water pump that had blown, I put all my problems down to the pump. But just when I was ready to send it to the garage when I found the problem, The leak was coming from behind a nut that went into the block..no it wasnt a core plug but a nut which i couln'dt free. The answer, a tin of leak repair which cost 5$. The van is running great now. thanks for your forum, its great.
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Old 08-12-2008, 06:22 PM   #52
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Just replaced the gaskets and now I have a major vacuum leak from the lower intake manifold, tokk it apart, redid the job and still have the same issue. Any ideas?
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:00 AM   #53
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

If anyone does this, search the web for a non OEM custom gasket. It has more rubber and a metal plate instead of plastic, $90 bucks but Welll worth it if you go through all the work so as to mot have any leaks. this was for a 1999 alero 3.4 v6. http://www.dsengine.com/gmgasket/index.html

Buy it from them there gasket was awsome for my car.

1994-2005 3.1 & 3.4 V6 engines - with VIN code M,5 $1695
1996-2002 4.3 V6 engines - with VIN code W,X - $1695
1996-2001 5.0 V8 Engines - with M VIN code - $1550
1996-2001 5.7 V8 Engines - with R VIN code - $1550

ApplicationSale PriceGM 3.1L V6 1993-1999 VIN "M" $91.09GM 3.1L V6 1999-2006 VIN "J" $90.78GM 3.4L V6 1996-2005 VIN "E" $90.78GM 4.3L V6 1996-2006 $82.06GM 5.0L V8 1996-2002 $75.71GM 5.7L V8 1996-2002 $75.71
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:47 PM   #54
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I am another victim of this headgasket crisis. At first my car was over heating, smoke and oily water was coming from the tail pipe and when ever i fill up the coolant and it disappears. I went and purchase a bottle of gasket fix leaks stuff for $9.99. For about a week or 2 the car was running some what fine, no overheating, and no smokey tail pipe. Then one day while on the highway I notice the car was running hotter than it should and I notice water and stem coming through the radiator cap. I replace the radiator cap and the problem continue and destroy the new cap. For a while a was able to driving for approxiamtely 4-8 miles without overheating. Then one day i decided to use the correct antifreeze instead of water and the car began overheating ASAP. Now when if i drive for about 5-8 minutes the car will get hot and cut off when I am seating still at a stop light.

So I am going to beginning taking my engine apart tomorrow
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:04 PM   #55
dheld2
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Dude, If your engine was cutting off at a light and based on how you drove it with the problem, It may not be worth even rebuilding. You could have cracked the block or damaged the rings and or lifters.
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:44 AM   #56
tjr19136
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

IDk, I thought it was cutting off due to the fact that it was overheating........Because the car will cut back on and drive find once it cool down.......... Remind you I was driving with no antifreeze, no water.

But I just began taking the very top of the engine off, I don't know the name of the top metal plate thing that say 3100 on it. But I notice most of the bolts were very lose and too easy to take out...And the thread of the bolts were wet and smell like a combination of oil,water,antifreeze. I began to feel under this metal plate thing and notice their was a plastic gasket...........I am wondering if I replace just that gasket can that solve my problem.......

Reminder, my problem is coolant is leaking into the engine oil and causing car to overheat...............
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Old 09-17-2008, 02:06 PM   #57
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I am wrapping up the job on my car. I can't believe all the things I had to remove. Overall it's an easy job but very time consuming.

This is a list of the stuff I had to remove or put out of the way:
- Power steering pump
- Alternator
- Plug wires
- A bunch of sensor plugs
- 2 fuel lines
- Valve covers
- Upper intake manifold
- 5 or 6 coolant lines (soft and hard ones)
- Coilpack
- Pushrods
- Vacuum hoses
- EGR Valve
- Some random electric vacuum box on the upper intake

I left the fuel rails on just disconnected the two fuel lines. The o-ring went flying when I pulled on the back line (I found it just below).
I left the back valve cover on, just loosen the top two bolts that connect to the intake manifold.
I had to disconnect a hard coolant line to get the front valve cover to come out.

I took a few pictures that I will post at a later time.
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Old 09-19-2008, 09:49 AM   #58
///manuel
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

Job finished and successful but boy did it take forever... (three nights).
The power steering pump wouldn't fit back in without disconnecting its hard line first after re-installing the lower intake manifold.
I should have put the EGR valve back in before the fuel lines which are in the way once installed.
Let's hope that the new gasket does the job!
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:11 PM   #59
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

I've just finished replacing my intake manifold gasket and now I've got a rough idle, some hesitation on acceleration and a check engine light. I've gone back and checked all my electrical connections and looked for vacuum leaks. Any ideas?
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Old 05-18-2009, 02:42 PM   #60
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...

My dad and I did this last summer on my 2000 and it is still holding up. The job took us 12 hours but we were being pretty slow. We bought a repair manual from Auto-Zone and the felpro kit that included the extra gaskets and o-rings. We did not remove the fuel rails from the lower manifold. All we were able to remove the lower manifold with the fuel rails still attached. One of us would hold the manifold up while the other cleaned off the surfaces. It was a pain in the @$$ but it saved us some time. We only had 1 scary moment when we couldn't tighten down one of the rocker bolts. We got some gunk or metal shavings or something in the threads and had to re-tap that hole. That fixed it. I've put ~15,000 miles on the new gasket and have had no issues and no leaks. The aftermarket gasket was metal/rubber and really beefy, it seemed a lot better than the stock one. I think that this is a job that any reasonably mechanical person could accomplish, it just takes a lot of time.
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