'93 Del sol will not start at all now

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

When there's no power at #7 it means the relay is bad. You said you replaced it, maybe it's faulty.

[A Murder of Crows]

Replace the coil. I had this exact same problem, came here looking for answers. Didn't test relays or anything else. Change cap, roter, cables, plugs, and still no spark. changed coil, BOOOM, instantly starts up, better than before. try it. if it doesn't work, you can always take the coil back. I've read in other forums that the coil will sometimes LOOK good on test but not actually function for high voltage.

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

Installing the MSD is a fix for replacing the coil because it's an external coil. It does the same thing it's just cheaper.

[93delsolzz]

Hi,
I have the new coil installed and still no spark.

Is there a way to test out the computer/ECM? Could a bad igniter cause a ECM to go bad?

I am going to test out both my old and new relay on a different car to see if it works for sure.

With the key in the ON position, the check engine light stays on and will not go out. I tried using a paper clip to arc the diagnostic connector so that my check engine light would begin to blink, but the check engine light just stays on. Which the Diagnosis Code is calling to check ECU.

Where I'm at now:
Check engine light stays on; key in the ON position.
No spark from coil, spark plug wires, ect.
No voltage to fuel pump.
I have voltage to injectors.
First changed out the distributor with a used distributor (I was told it was working) --No spark--
Then I put in the new MSD coil and MSD cap in. --No spark--
Fuel in the tank.
Strong battery.
Replaced main relay with a new one. --No spark or voltage to fuel pump--

Thanks again for your help.

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

It could be a faulty ECU. Before you go buying a new one, do you know anyone with with a 92-95 Civic Ex/Si? Thay all have the same ECU as you do and you could use that to test wether your ECU is bad or not.

[93delsolzz]

I tested both relays on my neighbors civic and the car ran great with either one.

Would this have anything to do with the ignition or since the engine cranks over count that as being ok?

Thanks again.

[93delsolzz]

I tested both relays on my neighbors civic and the car ran great with either one.

Would this have anything to do with the ignition or since the engine cranks over count that as being ok?

I couldn't test the ECU on my neighbors Civic because his was Auto 1.5L & mine is 5spd 1.6 VTEC.

Thanks again.

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

Well you said that you don't have power at the fuel pump either, so even if you were getting spark, it still wouldn't start. You said your car was stolen, was the ignition switch damaged at all or any wiring?

[93delsolzz]

Hi,
There were no damaged wires when it was stolen. The IGN key tumbler was poped out to run the car with a screwdriver. I replaced the whole IGN and the car worked fine. It was stolen a ways back also.

I tried to find an indication of a bad wire but they appear to be fine.

Thanks again.

[93delsolzz]

Hi,

Main Relay volt meter test I did with a new volt meter I bought.

With Main Relay connected:

Connector #1: TO BAT.
Key Position 0: Battery Voltage
Key Position I: Battery Voltage
Key Position II: Battery Voltage
Key Position III (cranking): Battery Voltage

Connector #2: TO GROUND (Good Ground)
Key Position 0: -00.1Mv *
Key Position I: -00.1Mv *
Key Position II: 11.0Mv *
Key Position III (cranking): 102.0Mv *

Connector #3: TO ECU
Key Position 0: 10.6Mv *
Key Position I: 10.6Mv *
Key Position II: 13.7Mv *
Key Position III (cranking): 106.0Mv *

Connector #5: TO IGN.
Key Position 0: 1.5Mv *
Key Position I: 2.2Mv *
Key Position II: Battery Voltage
Key Position III (cranking): Battery Voltage

Connector #6: TO SWITCH
Key Position 0: -00.1Mv *
Key Position I: -00.1Mv *
Key Position II: 03.5Mv *
Key Position III (cranking): Battery Voltage

Connector #7: TO FUEL PUMP
Key Position 0: -00.1Mv *
Key Position I: -00.1Mv *
Key Position II: 02.0Mv *
Key Position III (cranking): 01.6Mv *

Connector #8: TO ECU
Key Position 0: Nothing
Key Position I: Nothing
Key Position II: Battery Voltage
Key Position III (cranking): Battery Voltage

*When in Mv mode on the volt meter, there is a 200 below the decimal point.

Is Connector #7: TO FUEL PUMP, supposed to have battery voltage? or is the reading I got normal?

I also tried to get a voltage reading from the connector that connects to the fuel pump.
With connector atached to the fuel pump I got reading of:
Key Position 0: 80.0Mv to 115.0Mv
Key Position I: 80.0Mv to 130.0Mv
Key Position II: 20.0Mv to 200.0Mv
Key Position III (cranking): 20.0Mv to 200.0Mv
Are these normal readings? What voltage is required for the fuel pump to work?

Thanks again for your help.

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

Ok, swap ECU's with your neighbor. Your car won't run perfect, but if it does run, we're getting somewhere.

[93delsolzz]

Hi,
I just bought a used ECU and will be getting it the mail in about a week.

Do you happen to know what voltage is required for the fuel pump to work properly?

Thanks again

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

12-14, it needs battery voltage. Those readings that are in the mV range might as well be 0's, that's not enough to run anything on your car.

[93delsolzz]

Hi,
I got the ECU in the mail today and installed it. WOW the car does have life now. It actually started up after adjusting the distrubtor a little.

I am getting a code now from the ECU. It is eather a 4 or 41.

When I jump it, the CEL blinks off and on again 4 time, then there is one very fast blink almost like a flash. Then it repeats the same thing again and again...

I reset the ECU by removing the ECU fuse for 10 + sec., I think that is how to do it.

I still got the same code.

4Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP Sensor)
or
41Heated 02 Sensor

I'm pretty sure that the Crank Shaft Position Sensor is in the distrubtor so
I switched distrubtors and am still getting the same code. Both distrubtors ran in the car fine.

I tested the O2 sensor by:
With key OFF.
Disconnect the 4P connector from the HO2S.
Measure resistance between terminals C & D on the HO2S.
Is there 10-40 ohms?

There was no reading at all.
It recomends replacing the HO2Sensor.

So I think I will pick up a HO2Sensor and see if the code gos away.

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

Aloha!

[AudioGuy93DelSol]

4 long and 1 short is 41. There should be 4 wires from your O2. The heater circuit is the black and yellow/black. Check for 12v when the car is on but not running. If there is no voltage, replace the sensor.