2002 Lincoln ls Has no heat

[shorod]

I do have a spare DATC for a 2002 without heated/cooled seats, but before condemning the DATC I would move some of the temperature sensors around and see if they effect the performance in the Auto setting. Or, if you have access to a scan tool that can perform datastream on the DATC sensors, see if the temp readings on the various temp sensors seem realistic. Your symptoms don't seem all that much different from what I was experiencing on my wife's 2002 (and part of the reason I have a spare DATC - I should have trusted what my scan tool was showing me).

-Rod

[lovemyLS]

When I first tested mine, it was telling me the temp was around 175F in the car when it was really around 65f. The scan tool said something different than the DACT

[blklink]

New to the site and already read some great things about what to do if my car gets to that situation. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V6 3.0 212000 miles (I know high) but I have never had any problems out of it except for the radiator cracking. I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, flushed fluids, and bled all lines. I have heat when the car is at idle sitting, when I go down the road for no more than 5 minutes the heat quits working goes to cold air then, when I stop again and let idle it will start gettin warmer again. What should I do, does anyone know what the problem could be?

[joegr]

What is your temperature gauge reading during this time? (Is it always at the center line, or does it dip back below the center while driving?)

[lovemyLS]

That's alot of miles, that's great. I would remove your DACT (below the canister, next to radiator, on passenger side). It's 1 bolt and the hoses will be really hard to get off without a struggle. Clean out with WD40 and water. Make sure water can flow through both outlets. Dry, and replace. I did this and 6 days later the heat started up again. It may take some time for it to loosen up and the valves open. Touch base with the guys on this site. They're great. Good luck.

[shorod]

BKLink, watching the temp gauge is a good idea to see if it fluctuates. There's a good chance you have air in the system, especially with all the work that you have done with the cooling system so far.

When you get the chance, try running the DATC self test as outlined several times on this forum. If you have any codes that are not already listed in the threads, post them here and we'll see if we can get them defined for you.

The device that LoveMyLS is speaking of is the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) not the DACT. That would be another suspected issue for your symptoms if you don't have air in the system and no codes in the DATC.

There have been a few of us with issues from bad cabin temperature sensors. If you haven't already, review a few of those posts and see if any of the symptoms match yours.

-Rod

[454bigblock45]

Help Please. This message is for Shorod. I am having the same problem listed about with my 2002 Lincoln LS v8 with heated seats. It is winter in new england and my car is blowing nothing but cold air. I am unclear on the proper steps to take in reseting the heat. I am I must admit a bit of a novice. I was hoping to have as much information as possible to give to my mechanic in hopes of avoiding a costly and labor intesive process of elimination to fix this problem. Is there anyway that I could please have you email me the procedures as you have done for others in this forum? Regards

[shorod]

I'll send you the e-mail with the troubleshooting info for the DATC if that's what you're asking for. As for resetting the DATC, you should find the appropriate steps for your vehicle listed in some of the earlier pages. Good luck!

There is a lot of good information from a lot of contributors in this thread, I'd suggest you read through the 4 pages and try some of the ideas discussed here if you haven't already. The more information you can provide to us, the better we'll be able to help you diagnose the issue. For example, have you tried turning the temp set point all the way up? Was there any change? Do you have access to a scan tool that can access the DATC and monitor the temp sensors real time?

-Rod

[nalore1713]

All, Sorry I have been absent for a while here..

Back in Late October and early Nov I posted an issue about ERRATIC HEAT/NOT HEAT/ONE VENT BLOWS COLD OTHERS WARM.... on my car.

Well My issue has been resolved as of last night. I finally got the time to Replaced my DCCV and as soon as the car reached Normal temps... Heat was coming from all vents while I was bleeding the system.

To the next person having similar issues with their heat, this is my independent advice...

Skip all the Troubleshooting and just buy yourself the DCCV from Amason for $160 or get it from your local auto-parts for easy returning if not needed.

Removed the old DCCV and if clogged, then clean it and return the DCCV your purchased, if not clogged then simply replaced it.

The reason why I say this is because I searched all over on the internet and I'm yet to come across anything else causing this issue.

The problem is either clogged DCCV or just a bad one.

If you are not comfortable at changing your breaks, you may want to skip this and let your mechanic change it for you. It is easy yet somewhat complicated as you will be working in a really tight area. There are two bolts that secure the bracket to the chassis to which the DCCV is mounted on. One bolt is easy to get while the other is a little more difficult to get to. The hoses can be a pain in the you know what to unhook. And then the Entire DCCV with the Electric pump and hoses comes up and out.

Mare sure you transfer one hose at the time from old DCCV to the new one and install it with the same bend and Direction/orientation as it was on the old one. Trust me Do this or else you gona have serious headaches putting it back in the the car and your hoses will not align with the ones in the car.

I'm sure Rod may not agree with me on keeping t-shooting. I did the t-shooting steps because when it comes to Doctors and local repair shops.... I do not trust them... Trust me I have my reasons and Thousands of dollars saved on unnecessary repairs requested by them. Just to give you an Idea, AAA shop wanted to replace the DCCV and the DACT.. almost $2000 on parts and labor. They said it could be either part causing the issue and they recommended to replace both parts to be on the safe side.. I said BULL****

However, this is a forum of honest guys like myself and probably some that are mechanics and are really good at what they do such as Rod (thank you so much by the way on everything that you do).

If you searched trough this forum you will see that the final fixed was either DCCV was replaced or cleaned because it was clogged.

We all have done the t-shooting for you so, if this is your issue, THIS IS YOUR FIX.

[shorod]

Thanks for the update. You're right though, I do disagree with skipping the troubleshooting steps. I'm aware of three people (myself included) that the problem ultimately ended up being a temp sensor in the cabin. Those cost $21 from the dealer and only take about 10 minutes to replace. At least in my situation I had already replaced the $160 DCCV which is more like a 2 hour job.

Also, I'm not a mechanic/technician, I'm a Senior Engineering Manager for a company that designs and builds communications equipment. Cars just happen to be a hobby of mine.

-Rod

[JTN123]

I am having the same problem with my 02 Lincoln LS no heat good A/C took it to a mechanic to change the DCCV and he said that it was not it that it was a motor that controlled this that was 514 dollars has anyone heard of this motor

[JTN123]

Shorod ???????????????????????????

[joegr]

Originally Posted by JTN123

I am having the same problem with my 02 Lincoln LS no heat good A/C took it to a mechanic to change the DCCV and he said that it was not it that it was a motor that controlled this that was 514 dollars has anyone heard of this motor

Your mechanic is wrong. Get a better mechanic. Most cars use a blend-air door for temperature control, and that door is driven by an electric motor. The LS does not use a blend air door. Instead, it has valves (the DCCV) that control coolant flow.
You gen I LS does have a "cold air bypass door", but it does not control temperature. It is just triggered for maximum air conditioning. Failures of this door are very rare. Failures of the DCCV are very common.

[shorod]

There are a lot of good discussion and troubleshooting ideas in this thread. Please read through the thread (yeah, I know it's a lot of reading) and try the suggestions. Then post back with the results and we'll go from there. What Joegr said is correct, there is not motor that controls the DCCV, except for the solenoids that are part of the DCCV. Are you sure your mechanic/technician didn't say "module" referring to the DATC? Either way, there are steps mentioned in this thread that will help you or your technician properly diagnose the issue. Modern cars are no longer purely mechanical. If you truly are still relying on a "mechanic" you need to find yourself a good "technician" who understands both the electronics and mechanics of the car and can troubleshoot accordingly.

-Rod

[JTN123]

I think thaty he was probably talking about the actuator but not sure going to look in to this feel as though he was trying to rob me to buy Christmas!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!