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Car Modeling Share your passion for car modeling here! Includes sub-forum for "in progress" and "completed" vehicles.
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Old 09-16-2001, 01:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by Guiddy
Mr Muscle Oven CLeaner removes Tamiya paint like water! Great stuff! Just spray on, then rinse off and the paint goes with it!

Won't attack the plastic or automotive paint, so useful if mixing mediums!
Cant say i've tried that before....did you find out when you had your apron/gloves on cleaning the stove...:finger: :finger:...LOL
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Old 09-28-2001, 06:58 PM   #32
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Always wear eye protection when using a rotary tool, especially a cutting wheel. Hot plastic bits flying towards your eyes is bad, m'kay?
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Old 09-29-2001, 10:38 AM   #33
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DO NOT SPILL MODELLING GLUE ON CLEAR WINDOWS!!!!!

If you do, just leave it alone, you will only make it worse by touching it. Do not use scotch tape on a clear-coated surface shortly afte painting it. Do not spray one heavy coat, two or more light ones. Do not spray 2 or more heavy coats, either.

Can anyone find turn signal amber paint???
Is it possible to attact lights and other clear plastic parts without spilling glue on them and making things look bad.
What type of glue is the best??
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Old 09-29-2001, 02:21 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Can anyone find turn signal amber paint???
Is it possible to attact lights and other clear plastic parts without spilling glue on them and making things look bad.
What type of glue is the best??
Yes. Tamiya makes "Clear Orange" in acrylic and I believe Testors makes "Turn Signal Amber" in enamel. Finding them may be a differrent story. My local hobby stores stock the Tamiya paint, so try looking for that instead. It's good stuff.

I have switched to using plain white glue to attach clear parts. You don't have to use much, and it works great for set-in parts like headlight and taillight lenses. I messed up my R33 Skyline headlights with model cement. I've had mixed results using white glue to attach the windshield canopy. It's usually such a large piece that it never... fits... quite... right...

The window parts on my MR2 are all one piece, and it has started to come loose at the bottom edge of the windshield; behind the wipers. Next, I'll experiment with cementing an extra piece of plastic to "clip" the window into place... I'll let you guys know...
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Old 09-29-2001, 03:53 PM   #35
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for strange looking parts such as the window of an MR-2, what i ususally do is just cut the thing up in pieces that do fit together nicer..

and I usually use cement on the top of the clear window part that goes right under the roof of the car, then I cheat and use stronger yet thin masking tape and tape the bottom edges down onto the body of the car.. works great
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Old 09-29-2001, 04:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris
Is it possible to attact lights and other clear plastic parts without spilling glue on them and making things look bad.
What type of glue is the best??
Use Micro Kristal Clear.
Its a white glue but dries clear....use it on all windows and lights.....does not attack the paint
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Old 09-30-2001, 05:52 PM   #37
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Thanks all.
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Old 10-01-2001, 04:07 AM   #38
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If you can .....paint during the day and not at night.

The light during the day is easier to work with.

At night i find the light is not as good and its easy to miss little bits of the part that you are painting
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Old 10-07-2001, 02:39 PM   #39
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Put your painted model bodies (I'm talking die-cast here) somewhere they can't fall off from (LIKE THE FLOOR!), and also there shouldn't be anything that can fall on them. It sucks twice as much when a nice black car falls on the nice white-primered car and the former gets a huge scratch on the roof, and the latter gets it's scratch-built DTM rear wing knocked off!!!

But it's OK now...
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Old 10-22-2001, 04:09 PM   #40
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Yet another Ales Cock up!
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Old 10-22-2001, 04:26 PM   #41
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No, just a minor setback. It's OK now. :finger:
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Old 10-22-2001, 07:30 PM   #42
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Good tip for those hard to get off lids on Tamiya Acrylic paints....you know the ones where you sweat/swear at etc etc and the lids wont un-screw.

Put them in the microwave for 10-15 sec. It softens up the paint and the lid then comes of nice
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Old 10-23-2001, 01:20 PM   #43
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I put them over a candle
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Old 10-24-2001, 12:45 PM   #44
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Quote:
Good tip for those hard to get off lids on Tamiya Acrylic paints....you know the ones where you sweat/swear at etc etc and the lids wont un-screw.

Put them in the microwave for 10-15 sec. It softens up the paint and the lid then comes of nice
If you have fear of putting metal objects in microwave ovens then just run hot water over the lid of the paint for a minute, it will usually twist right off.
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Old 10-25-2001, 01:55 PM   #45
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Blow-torches work, too
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