GSR or CR-V????

[eckoman_pdx]

Sorry I havn't posted in a couple of days. Okay, first off, a block gaurd basically will serve to close the deck. You are placing it (and welding it in in some cases) between the cylider walls and the block, which "closes the deck." I know of it being welding in and then properly milled down smooth the weld afterwords, so it's premanent. But yes, that's basically what the block gaurd does, as long as it's the what I am thinking of. It's the one that goes the length of the cylinder walls, correct, not the one that one gones down an inch or 1/2 inch? because you want to close the WHOLE deck, not just the top or middle inch or 2. Okay, now, as for a vavle job, they polish and machine the valves. They machine the edges to certian angles. This improves airflow and helps the vavles from stalling at high rpm's. And yes, a 5-angle vavle job is better than a 3 angle vavle job. However, the 5 angle vavle job will cost more than the 3-angle, but it is better than a 3 angle. It's a matter of cost I suppose.

[94tegRS]

ok, the blockgaurd i got is the 1/2 inch kind, will it at least do sometihng? and if im going for say 250HP all motor CRVTEC, should i even bother putting it in.

[S|L3NoZ]

But for the 5 angle valve job, I can do it myself in my machine shop but I should probably ask someone who knows how to do it to guide me....By doing all the machine work myself, I'll probably save a lot of money....

[eckoman_pdx]

Okay, first off, the half-inch kind should do something. I mean, it's not closeing the deck, top to bottom, but it stablialies the top area, helping keep the cylinder from moving and cracking under high boost, etc. If thats all you can go for, do it. It may not be closing the deck entirly, but it's certainly better than nothing.

And yeah, in regards to a 5 angle vavle job. I could tell you baiscally what they do, but I wouldn't wanna leave something out and screw you up, as knowing the idea of how and doing it are to different things. But if you can do it all, you can save tons of money.

[S|L3NoZ]

Well....tell me what you know about the job (if you want to of course ) and don't worry, I'll gather the necessary infos so it won't screw up....I never start something before I know exactly what I'm doing

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by S|L3NoZ

Well....tell me what you know about the job (if you want to of course ) and don't worry, I'll gather the necessary infos so it won't screw up....I never start something before I know exactly what I'm doing

I know right now, I would explian it choppy enough that I don't know how much help it'd be. I'll look for the info again, and post it when I find it.

[94tegRS]

ok, well I will probably throw it in, I dont wanna run high boost or anything so it should be all i need. all I wanna do is built B20b block w/ 11:1 cr, and a fully built B16 head.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by 94tegRS

ok, well I will probably throw it in, I dont wanna run high boost or anything so it should be all i need. all I wanna do is built B20b block w/ 11:1 cr, and a fully built B16 head.

Do you already have all the parts for your build? Let me know how it turns out.

[94tegRS]

Originally Posted by eckoman_pdx

Do you already have all the parts for your build? Let me know how it turns out.

no, not all

just the B20b, JE 11:1 pistons, blockgaurd, oversized radiator(was gonna go into hatch and stock one is sooo small), OBX-R 4-2-1(probably sell for DC 4-1), cold air intake(bought for civic off ebay but didnt come close to fitting, maybe it'll fit on the teg).

I am going to have dark entertainment port my head (anyone heard of this company, its a guy on ebay) and I am gonna get crower stage 2 cams(how much would stage 3 hurt idle/driveability?) dual valve springs/tit retainers, new seals, maybe the pro flo valves or 5 angle valve job(5 angle is on the valves themselves correct?) adj. cam gears, skunk 2 intake manifold, 67mm TB.

block- crower billet rods, all new bearings, ARP rod bolts/head studs.

fuel- aem rail, B&M fuel regulator and fuel pump, RC310cc injectors.

ignition- MSD SCI, irridium plugs

ecu- hondata s200.

back up for racing vettes- NX or NOS 50 shot wet kit.

as soon as i sel my truck/hatch/accord im going to my uncles in southern cali cuz 3rd gen tegs are only about 3k for decent ones with not too bad of mileage. then the engine build begins

[Import_fantasy]

Originally Posted by 94tegRS

no, not all

just the B20b, JE 11:1 pistons, blockgaurd, oversized radiator(was gonna go into hatch and stock one is sooo small), OBX-R 4-2-1(probably sell for DC 4-1), cold air intake(bought for civic off ebay but didnt come close to fitting, maybe it'll fit on the teg).

I am going to have dark entertainment port my head (anyone heard of this company, its a guy on ebay) and I am gonna get crower stage 2 cams(how much would stage 3 hurt idle/driveability?) dual valve springs/tit retainers, new seals, maybe the pro flo valves or 5 angle valve job(5 angle is on the valves themselves correct?) adj. cam gears, skunk 2 intake manifold, 67mm TB.

block- crower billet rods, all new bearings, ARP rod bolts/head studs.

fuel- aem rail, B&M fuel regulator and fuel pump, RC310cc injectors.

ignition- MSD SCI, irridium plugs

ecu- hondata s200.

back up for racing vettes- NX or NOS 50 shot wet kit.

as soon as i sel my truck/hatch/accord im going to my uncles in southern cali cuz 3rd gen tegs are only about 3k for decent ones with not too bad of mileage. then the engine build begins

add a turbo to that list and u got a f'n badass setup....definetly post on ur progression and how everthing turns out

[94tegRS]

I was thinking of selling my pistons and goign with like 9:1 or so and putting on a turbo, but I wanna just go all motor and see how fast I can get through the quarter, if i am not satisfied I might eventually pull it out and lower the compression and throw on some boost, but I know i wont right away cuz already the price tag for this is about 2x what im gonan spend on the car, and I know i wanna lower it/17's and a bit of body work. so if iwas too turbo also right away Id be spending 3k on a car and putting like 9k in engine moids right away and I think thats too much to spend all at once on the engine, even 6k is alot of money for speed IMO but oh well, I love driving fast

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by 94tegRS

I was thinking of selling my pistons and goign with like 9:1 or so and putting on a turbo, but I wanna just go all motor and see how fast I can get through the quarter, if i am not satisfied I might eventually pull it out and lower the compression and throw on some boost, but I know i wont right away cuz already the price tag for this is about 2x what im gonan spend on the car, and I know i wanna lower it/17's and a bit of body work. so if iwas too turbo also right away Id be spending 3k on a car and putting like 9k in engine moids right away and I think thats too much to spend all at once on the engine, even 6k is alot of money for speed IMO but oh well, I love driving fast

Yea, of you turbo it later u are gonna have to pull it out and put in lower c/r pistons. But the cost of the turbo kit and new pistons (since you go 11:1 already) does raise the price a bunch, even if you put the kit toghter yourself (which I always recomend). Just promise me one thing please!! Please don't put on a big-ass aluminum wing or anything APC as a part of your body mods, lol. You picked out wheels yet? what about springs/shocks? The Racing Heart Z5000's are slick in black, www.wheelmax.com has a pic.

[94tegRS]

well, this is my old integra and i want to copy it pretty much. Id like to buy it back just so there isnt one exact copy in my area, but I have never seen it drive by so if i do when im in mine it will be rare that it happened.




I dont wanna put on the red A tho, but yes im gonna go for altezzas, the same style. the integra is one of the cars I think it looks good on. just not preludes/neans/accords,etc... I think one type looks good on a civic but cant remember what its called.

and the tantrums are what i want, I found out they also only weigh 19.2 lbs for a 17, which isnt too light but it is fairly light when i looked at lots of other wheels weights.

I might finish off with a full kit after a while, and am about 99% sure i dont even want any kind of spoiler. and a "tin-foiler" will NEVER appear on any car I ever own. Ive only seen 2 cars in my life where I think it looked alright.

and springs shocks right now im thinking sportlines/KYB AGX. but I liked how low my old integra was and my friends had a 91 integra with a pro kit, and the sportline is only suppose to lower like 1/2 to 3/4" more and his was WAY too high looking. you cant tell in the pic too well, but the front fender practically sat on the tires. if i turned sharp and hit a bump you could hear a slittle squeak when the tire rubbed. and in back you could only see half the tires sidewall, the other half was up in the fender. anyone know what springs lower it this much? and no they werent the cheap coilovers.

one question tho. which you think would win in a race and with exact same skilled dirver(me in both) the above mentioned car with either

[ul]
[li]A) B20b w/ LS head/intake manifold, stock internals, and about 8 pounds of boost(will sleeves handle that)

[li]B) B20b w/ vtec head and everything else listed in the above post.

seems to me like the boosted b20 woudl come out on top but I kinda want all motor cuz i think it will sound alot meaner, and if someone beats me(and their cars turbo'd) then ill have an excuse


and i also read somewhere that 200WHP turbo would lose to 200WHP NA in the exact same car/conditions. this true?

[94tegRS]

i had problems getting the pics to load so if they arent in the pist, here they are

[Thepeug]

You could get 16x7" Rota slipstreams (only 12 pounds each!) for $899, tires included. Significantly ligher than the tantrums.