Having a starting problem.

[kiway22]

This is almost unbelievable, they have made a device, that by passes the pass-key lock security system. I just installed one, and it works. It works with the key with the computer chip in or out of it. And afterwards, I was able to dispose of the pass-key lock module. You can find it it at newrockies. I paid $297.00 dollars for mine. The only trouble i had, was i had let the battery go down. But once i charged it up. She cranked right up. After 2 years and 4 months, I think my cranking problems is over. The down side of it is, it does remove the protection the pass-key system provided. If you have questions about it, let me know. For some reason, the remote don't work anymore. This is no big deal for me, since I hardly ever use it. But will check with their tech-support, to see what they say.
I am having trouble with this device. Seems like the car is getting harder and harder to start. Will check with their tech support, to see if they can fix the problem.
Okay, according to tech-support, the device was installed properly. So my conclusion is that this device doesn't work well, with my 97 Aurora. Therefore I can't give my approval for this device.
I added a remote starter switch to the starter. This is the devise that mechanics use to turn but not crank the engine. I purchase the switch from rockauto for about $20 dollars, plus tax and shipping. Its is a heavy duty switch ( W80586), but the wires are cheap. I replaced the wires, 10ga for the big wire, and 12ga for the little wire. I purchased terminals corresponding to the wire sizes. And soldered them to the wires. After attaching them to the starter( use super glue or something on the threads, to keep the nuts from coming loose). I covered the wires with wire protective wire wrap, as I ran them from the starter, under the right fender, out the bottom of the back of the fender, Through the bottom of the right floor( there is one hole already there, you just have to drill one from the top. Under the carpet and around the front of the console. After removing the front of the console ( there is a wire holding the front and left side of the console together). It also have tabs that pushing into the front of the main console. I am not sure, but I think you pull the front part forward, the front part of the console come off, in one piece. I have to check on that.
Once the front part is off, you can attach the remote starter onto the outside of the main part of the console, so that it is easy to reach. When the primary switch don't work, I turn the ignition switch to the on position, and push the remote button. The car cranks up, although sometimes I have to push the button more than one time. I do all of this, because I am not ready to get rid of the car.
The large wire attached to the starter from the battery, don't need any lock tight on the treads. Since it has a lock washer on it. But it wouldn't hurt nothing either.
The piece I made to attach the starter switch to the console. Is shaped like a circle with 2 tabs on the ends. I made it out of aluminum siding. It is 2 inches wide for the length of the switch. The cutting size is 7and 5/8 by 2 inches. Mark 3/4s on the ends of the longer piece. And Bend them over 180 degrees, forming hem edges. Drill 2 1/8 holes in both of the hem edges. Attach one end of the holder to the console using small machine screws ( about 4mm, with lock nuts). Put the switch in the holder, pulling the holder tight around the switch. Mark the holes that was drilled in the hem. Remove the switch and drill through the marked holes. Replace the switch in the holder, and attached the hem to the console using 2 4mm machine screws and lock nuts.

[Blue Bowtie]

Thank you for updating the thread. It may help another member in the future.

[kiway22]

Originally Posted by kiway22

Just found my problem with the ignition. I tested my battery voltage, and came up with 12.6 volts. I charged it up anyway. The car cranked right up. Orelly's checked the alternator,and passed it. So I might have a bad ground somewhere.

I used my code reader today. There were 2 trouble codes: P0151 The upstream front oxygen sensor (low input circuit). And P0138 Down stream oxygen sensor(high input circuit). I changed both of those sensors a couple of years ago. But I think there is another sensor, on the rear of the catalytic converter. I will check that out.