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Cavalier Problem Diagnosis Got a problem you can't fix? We can help.
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Old 02-05-2006, 11:41 PM   #16
longlivetheZ
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Meh...don't pay him any attention...he's just a kid.

You should still check your fluid levels. It's hard for an engine to maintain proper pressure when it's too low on oil. But...I'm willing to bet your car doesn't have this problem as badly until it warms up, does it? Just run some thicker oil, Diva. Next time you take it in to get an oil change (or the next time you change the oil...which ever applies to you), just put in something a bit thicker and you'll be good to go! One of my cars back in the day used to do this so I put some oil with a higher viscosity in it and the problem went away.

Now...to address this annoying ass kid...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
How amazing, you didn't read the full post did you longlivedthez. What's the matter, did you doze off, old man?
What are you talking about now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
I would take your bet that you are much older than me, that just makes the matter worse, that very statement tells me alot. You would be how old, and you think they check the warning light on a Cavalier with a oil pressure gauge? Please, don't ever touch someone elses car.
Dude...what the hell are you talking about?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
Again, if you don't know what you are doing or saying, then why would you do or say it? BTW, I'll give you the credit that it is your car. I see it is the THIRD one, in process of being rebuilt none the less.
Hey dipshit...it is my third one and it runs fine. The ENGINE ON THE LEFT is what is getting rebuilt, jack ass. How it says "VG30ET in process of rebuild ON THE LEFT..." should have tipped you off...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
Why might that be, sounds like your faulty oil sending unit circuit is really saving your engine and paying off big dividends for you.
Faulty oil sending unit circuit, huh? Ooooooook...lol. You hear that on Star Trek last night? See above, jack ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
I have sympathy for you though, I know that it takes at least a good fifteen minutes to correct that problem and less than $30. That is alot to ask for, especially from someone who only rebuilds the car. Geez, sorry I didn't realize how tough it was on you. That is what is probably really upsetting you and then making you all itchy and scratchy up there.
And again...what the hell are you talking about?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
BTW, don't go having that heap towed into my service department unless you would like to hear...Driver! Do not tow that heap into my service bay! You could offend me and my customers by doing that, but that is the only way you could offend me!
lol...I'm speachless...I'm tempted to put that in my sig, too.

A) I don't have to tow it anywhere...I can drive it........
B) Why the HELL would I have you work on it when I do it my self?
C) Your sentences make no damn sense, man...I assume you meant...

Quote:
Originally Posted by I guess what you meant to say...
...unless you would like to hear, "Driver! Do not tow that heap into my service bay!"
...use quotes next time, tard.

D) I don't need to take the ~4 hr trip to the only Akron I know of to defile you, kid...you should be offended now. Stay in school.

Now, it's been fun, but just leave me alone, will you?
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:27 AM   #17
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
Then just drive it, if itkeeps running then it is fine, if it seizes then you know it wasn't.
come on man, even you should be able to admit thats some poor troubleshooting advice
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:27 PM   #18
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by poetrydiva
All right guys,
Why don't we knock out the p*ssing contest?? What is it with testosterone that makes men act like that?

I have no idea what the RPMs is at when it happens. The 91 Cav. doesn't have an RPM guage. I sure as heck wish it did. However, I can tell you, that the only time it pegs 0 is when I'm at a stand-still, so in that case, there would be 0 RPMs since I'm not moving.

When I'm traveling, the guage is at the level it always has been at when I drive. I was just wondering what might cause it to peg 0 when not moving at all.

To answer another question, the check guages light will come on when it pegs 0 but when I accellerate and the guage goes back up to what it was at before, it goes off.

It's very strange.
why dont u try changing the oil senser and it might work or the cable it is reading from.
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:51 PM   #19
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Poetrydiva,

Contest is over on my end.

You stated, " I have no idea what the RPMs is at when it happens. The 91 Cav. doesn't have an RPM guage "
If your car has an automatic transmission, RPM while idling should = 700 RPM.
If you car has a manual transmission the RPM while idling should be 750 RPM.
Above RPMs are acheived once engine is fully warmed up.
If the above RPMs drop too much below these values, you will know. The car will vibrate excessively ( rough idle ) and will feel like it is ready to stall. More than likely it will stall. I learned a long time ago to never say, it can't happen. Your engine RPM could be dropping below this limit which, would invite lower oil pressure readings. I am just going on what you have already stated, that your car is running the best it ever has. So I would just rule this out for being the cause, at least for the time being. You could check the PVC valve though, just to make sure that its hose isn't crimped and that the valve in the PVC is functioning correctly. That would only cost you your time, no money.
Also, your oil pressure should be 12 psi at 1200 RPMs minimum, hopefully more. If you let your car sit overnight, go out in the morning, and start it. Your car will be (or at least it should be) idling much faster than if, it was already fully warmed up (engine running for more than 15 minutes). This high idle is about 1200 RPMs and is normal till the engine warms up, then the RPMs should fall gradually to 700 or 750 RPM, known as low idle. What does the oil pressure gauge read in the morning after you start your car while in high idle?

I know you said that you just had the oil changed by your grandfather, how many miles ago was this? Do you know, or can you ask him what type of oil he used? You should be using an API grade of SG or SG/CD with a 10w-30 viscosity (good for outside tempertures down to -15 degrees below zero) Did he replace the oil filter? Other than having to shell out another $20 for an oil change and your time to do it, it would eliminate the oil from being one of the possibly causes. Oil breaks down (gets thinner) and can cause low pressure problems.

I am not trying to be picky here, I know that you are on a limited budget. Considering all of the money, time and sweat that you have already invested in repairs for this car, I would have to believe that you really want to keep your car, especially running. A shop will charge you around $50 for this oil pressure test in my area. Someone else mentioned having your grandfather test this for you, then it wouldn't cost you anything but a hug and a smile. There is yet another option for you that is very good and cheap. Your local High School just might have a Vocational Auto Mechanics Program for the High School students wanting to become mechanics. Give them a call and find out, if they don't have this program, ask the next town. You may be placed onto a very long waiting list but, it is dirt cheap and you'll be helping those kids to learn a trade. You'll get your car fixed, and it will be repaired correctly. It might take longer than you like, but it will get repaired for the cost of parts and a very small fee. Give them a try.

Don't run thicker oils. Your engine was not designed for that. It will eventually damage your engine, especially in these winter months. Thicker oils cannot get between the piston rings and the cylinder. Doing this will cause much wear in these areas. Wear in this area will cause, low or no compression. Bottom line-you'll be yanking the engine and replacing everything again. Please, check my information with any GM service department.
.

Last edited by Ed_in_Akron; 02-06-2006 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 02-07-2006, 01:51 PM   #20
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Thumbs up Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by poetrydiva
All right guys,
Why don't we knock out the p*ssing contest?? What is it with testosterone that makes men act like that?

I have no idea what the RPMs is at when it happens. The 91 Cav. doesn't have an RPM guage. I sure as heck wish it did. However, I can tell you, that the only time it pegs 0 is when I'm at a stand-still, so in that case, there would be 0 RPMs since I'm not moving.

When I'm traveling, the guage is at the level it always has been at when I drive. I was just wondering what might cause it to peg 0 when not moving at all.

To answer another question, the check guages light will come on when it pegs 0 but when I accellerate and the guage goes back up to what it was at before, it goes off.

It's very strange.
Like I said earlier ,have the oil pressure sensor removed and get someone to put in a Mechanical Oil Pressure gauge ( Non Electrical )just to check things out . Start with that. It wont cost much to Check ,then You will know if that is the problem. gotta start some where if you are worried about the OLD girl. Oh Ya My gauge would go to zero once in a while and the check gagues light would come on also ,like it is suppossed to do when it detects a problem. What did I do ...........Changed a sensor but I had a 3.1 v-6 so it may not appy to you but who knows. GOOD LUCK
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:59 PM   #21
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Question Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

longlivethez:
Yes, it doesn't do anything until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. I'm running 10W-30 right now. I thought that was the highest viscosity I could safely run.
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Old 02-09-2006, 05:37 PM   #22
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Arrow Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
Poetrydiva,
If your car has an automatic transmission, RPM while idling should = 700 RPM.
If you car has a manual transmission the RPM while idling should be 750 RPM.
Above RPMs are acheived once engine is fully warmed up.
Let me try this again, I timed out before I got the message posted. Yes, I do have an automatic. To be honest, I don't know a freakin' thing about driving a stick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
Also, your oil pressure should be 12 psi at 1200 RPMs minimum, hopefully more. If you let your car sit overnight, go out in the morning, and start it. Your car will be (or at least it should be) idling much faster than if, it was already fully warmed up (engine running for more than 15 minutes). This high idle is about 1200 RPMs and is normal till the engine warms up, then the RPMs should fall gradually to 700 or 750 RPM, known as low idle. What does the oil pressure gauge read in the morning after you start your car while in high idle?
When I start the car in the morning, it does idle high and the gauge registers somewhere between 30 and 40 (whatever the middle mark is). After it warms up, the idle does drop and it registers somewhere between 15 and 20. Today, when I drove it, it didn't once drop below that 15-20 range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
I know you said that you just had the oil changed by your grandfather, how many miles ago was this? Do you know, or can you ask him what type of oil he used? You should be using an API grade of SG or SG/CD with a 10w-30 viscosity (good for outside tempertures down to -15 degrees below zero) Did he replace the oil filter? Other than having to shell out another $20 for an oil change and your time to do it, it would eliminate the oil from being one of the possibly causes. Oil breaks down (gets thinner) and can cause low pressure problems.
The oil was changed ~40 miles ago. I literally meant it had just been changed. I bought the oil and filter myself. I've been using Castrol GTX 10W30 High Mileage for over 2 years. It runs better with this than any other brand. I bought 5 qts. I also bought the appropriate sized SuperTech filter. We've used this brand in my family for a long time.

Yes, I know he put on the filter. I watched him do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
I am not trying to be picky here, I know that you are on a limited budget. Considering all of the money, time and sweat that you have already invested in repairs for this car, I would have to believe that you really want to keep your car, especially running. A shop will charge you around $50 for this oil pressure test in my area. Someone else mentioned having your grandfather test this for you, then it wouldn't cost you anything but a hug and a smile. There is yet another option for you that is very good and cheap. Your local High School just might have a Vocational Auto Mechanics Program for the High School students wanting to become mechanics. Give them a call and find out, if they don't have this program, ask the next town. You may be placed onto a very long waiting list but, it is dirt cheap and you'll be helping those kids to learn a trade. You'll get your car fixed, and it will be repaired correctly. It might take longer than you like, but it will get repaired for the cost of parts and a very small fee. Give them a try.
Sad thing is, there's no high school auto program anywhere around. Hasn't been for a while. I really don't think there's a problem, because it didn't do it today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_in_Akron
Don't run thicker oils. Your engine was not designed for that. It will eventually damage your engine, especially in these winter months. Thicker oils cannot get between the piston rings and the cylinder. Doing this will cause much wear in these areas. Wear in this area will cause, low or no compression. Bottom line-you'll be yanking the engine and replacing everything again. Please, check my information with any GM service department.
That's kind of what I was thinking.

Better scoot. Got to get home.

Going to play Romance of the Three Kingdoms II with hubby. :-)

Ahhhh. How I love the weekend.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:52 AM   #23
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

I know this thread is from years ago but this same exact thing is happening to our 2003 chevy blazer. Started 7 days ago, the coolant was low and tempature got hot but not redline and the oil gauge and gas gauge were not working then we added coolant and they started working again but the oil gauge used to always stay between 20 and 40 closer to 40 while driving but now its different.
When we 1st start vehicle it stays close to 40 like before but after it warms up a few miles down the road theit stays close to 20 while driving but drops to barely above 0 or to 0 when stopped at a red light then goes back up to almost 20 while driving. Got oil change yesterday. No smoking, noises, ticking and its not running any different. Was this ever figured out?
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:06 AM   #24
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

Go to Advanced Auto or Auto Zone get a loaner test gauge install it and get reading.
You could have bad bearings,sending unit, gauge or bad bulb.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:44 AM   #25
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge drops to "0"...

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Originally Posted by rhandwor View Post
Go to Advanced Auto or Auto Zone get a loaner test gauge install it and get reading.
You could have bad bearings,sending unit, gauge or bad bulb.
Thanks i will
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