Slot drilled rotors on street cars ?

[nikita7]

Is there any benefit in installing the slot drilled rotors on the street car ? As far as I can tell drilled rotors can better disperse heat in extreme driving conditions(aka during real road races). So why are people installing them on regular street cars ?

[slideways...]

rice.






all they do on the street is wear out pads faster than normal. the only use would be for daily drivers that race on weekends or something.

[immortal_omni]

they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you

the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering

the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases

oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one

[BLU CIVIC]

they also cut down on brake dust...

*Beware when buying drilled and slotted rotors*
have a greater chance of buying warped or structurally compromised rotors b/c most are done aftermarket and then resold...and BREMBO never made drilled AND slotted rotors...so cautious if and when you buy

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by immortal_omni

they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you

the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering

the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases

You're the one who is confused. Outgassing was a problem with older pads. There might pads made today that still exhibit this, but I assure you they are shitty pads you don't want to use anyway. Now days, crossdrilling is a marketing ploy. There is a reason you don't see crossdrilled rotors on race cars. Also, if you're going to waste your money and buy into that marketing ploy then be careful. Some cheaper options are rotors that have simply been drilled. The good ones are rotors that have been cast that way. If you want to improve braking performance you're better off just getting bigger rotors. By crossdrilling you remove material from the rotor, reducing its ability to stop effectively. This is because there is less contact patch between the pad and the rotor. Also, there is less material to absorb that heat. This will make your caliper, lines, and fluid take up the slack. This results in ballooning lines and boiling brake fluid which all cause brake fade.

However, slotting is effective and will increase the initial bite when you stab on the brakes and as a result will chew up pads faster.

[immortal_omni]

it could be that i am confused but i use slotted/vented rotors in my cars

i know from experience that that problem has happened to me in both my 92 camaro and my 95 del sol. it was worse in my camaro, so i switched to slotted. also the pads makes a huge difference

[Polygon]

Are you sure it was outgassing? It could have been brake fade.

[immortal_omni]

yeah, quite sure it wasn't brake fade, cuz with brake fade my pedal would go to the floor, it was not the case here

i got pressure, it just wasn't stopping, maybe it was something else and i'm misdiagnosing the problem but since switching, i've haven't had that problem

[Knap]

Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can help to clean the face of the brake pads, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction.

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by Knap

Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can help to clean the face of the brake pads, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction.

Good point, I forgot about that.

[slideways...]

Originally Posted by immortal_omni

they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you

the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering

the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases

oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one

completely different situations. slicks wear fast because of their compound. a slick with the same exact compound as an M+S tire would be too slippery even on dry pavement, but if driven the same, would last longer. plus my other point was proven also.

[SaabJohan]

Originally Posted by Polygon

If you want to improve braking performance you're better off just getting bigger rotors.

In most cases the stock brakes are very good, or at least the can be with some modifications.

The biggest downside with the stock brakes on most cars is the lack of cooling. Add brake cooling intakes on the car, provide these with "hoses" that feed the air to the center of the disc. Then replace the stock brake fluid with a fluid with a high wet and dry boiling point. Replace the pads with suitable "performance" or racing pads (higher coefficient of friction at higher temperatures). Then most heat problems should be gone. The rotors can be painted on the side with temperature indicating paint, that makes it simpler to pick out the correct typ of pad and size on the cooling air intakes.

In most cases the stock brakes can provide enough torque to lock up the wheels, so better "bite" is usually not needed.

Don't use rotors that are bigger than you need, it's just uneccesary weight.

[BLU CIVIC]

Originally Posted by SaabJohan

Don't use rotors that are bigger than you need, it's just uneccesary weight.

not if they're ceramic

[SaabJohan]

Originally Posted by BLU CIVIC

not if they're ceramic

Even though ceramic discs are lighter than iron discs using brakes which are larger than neccessary will still be like carrying around a lot of dead weight.

The advantage with ceramic brakes are their low weight (the also last longer), if you fit bigger discs than needed you will decrease their advantage.

Take a look at F1 for example (which use not ceramic but carbon/carbon composite discs and pads), they always go with a lighter disc if the track allows it. They also use air intakes for the brakes which are as small as possible.

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by SaabJohan

Even though ceramic discs are lighter than iron discs using brakes which are larger than neccessary will still be like carrying around a lot of dead weight.

And unsprung weight at that. Good point!